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  • Overlay panel broken screws

    Oh, the joys of being an FM/Feudal Serf.

    Trying to deal with getting lane panels kindasorta semi-within spec for USBC. Our setup is: originally, it was, oh, Anvilane I think it was (this was a Brunswick corporate-owned center), and later on, overlays were installed with wood screws. According to the guy I talked to, Brunswick IQ panels.

    Got quite a few with depressions, especially in the first panel. So, I take out the ten at the first seam, and two more on either side towards the foul line, stick the shims in between, then reinstall and remeasure. The problem? I've run into a not-insignificant number of these wood screws that are breaking off. Some apparently flush with the underlying lane surface... others, deeper than that. Emailed the Brunswick guy asking for advice. I was hoping he would suggest buying a special bit to drill a new hole and put in a fresh screw, but I got what I expected -- namely, pull the panel. Never done that before, and not looking forward to the task.

    Anybody else have any experience with this sort of situation?

    Oh, and apparently some of the readings the association took show a *crown* on a few panels. I'm not quite sure how that happened, unless it's more broken bolts rearing their ugly heads; this pa happened on one lane when I was trying to fix a depression. I'm still wondering how I'm going to deal with those.

    I'd also ask if anybody knows where I can get the current standard issue lane gauge that USBC uses without having to drop a grand, but that's another post.

    Thanks.

  • #2
    You need to get a box of panel screws and plugs from Brunswick. The drill for the plugs is a 7/16 bit and 3/16 for the hole. ( nothing special there) You can drill next to the broken screw to fix it. (DO NOT REUSE SCREWS) most of them are already broken so remove and get rid of. It takes a little practice to drill the plug counter hole but I suggest a stop collar on the bit. For leveling you can you a good 4 foot level (not a cheap one) and a set of feeler gauges. Also if you have to pull a panel up you will need to reseal the seams so get some sealer also from Brunswick. To do this is 1 tape on either side of the seam right on the edge, then squirt into the joint and the scrape it flat with razor blade, pull tape your done

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    • #3
      Sorry also DRILL the wood first for the screw dont just run it in. It WILL break

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      • #4
        Yeah, pilot holes are standard practice for me.

        Standard drill bit and a stop collar? Sounds like a plan. Feeler gauges we have; we also have the old style lane level, but we're borrowing the dial-gauge setup from the local association. Need to order some more lane plugs, but I can do that when I get back into town tomorrow (visiting a friend out of state at the moment).

        Any idea off the top of your head what the cure time is on the sealant? Overnight or 24 hours? Needless to say, I'd like to minimize downtime.

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        • #5
          Overnight for sealer

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          • #6
            In case you hadn't thought about it, when you do the sealant it would be wise to put mask tape down on both sides of the crack prior to adding the goop. Pull tape up after you have smoothed the seam with putty knife -- but BEFORE the sealant cures so it won't pull up the bead.
            The lane oil will not stick to the sealants and if you just wipe it off with a wet towel, you'll have huge non oiled bars across the lanes.

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            • #7
              Mok, I'm in a former BRC center that is having a similar issue. I have a couple of panels that are curling up on the edges and breaking the panel on the under side, not the screws. I'm just pulling the screws and making new holes. If it does it again, I'm going to have to change the panel. So far it's been alright.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by loadtoad View Post
                In case you hadn't thought about it, when you do the sealant it would be wise to put mask tape down on both sides of the crack prior to adding the goop. Pull tape up after you have smoothed the seam with putty knife -- but BEFORE the sealant cures so it won't pull up the bead.
                The lane oil will not stick to the sealants and if you just wipe it off with a wet towel, you'll have huge non oiled bars across the lanes.
                This is good to know -- thank you. Good news is, I'm feeling more comfortable with the idea of drilling new holes rather than pulling panels to get at the broken bolt pieces, so I think that's the route I'll be going.

                Originally posted by Bruns-man20 View Post
                I'm in a former BRC center
                Son of a gun! So am I!

                I just did another panel a couple of days ago, and went from an .080 crosswise tilt to a center crown. Something happened with the shim that I had under the panel before, so I removed it and added something on the 10 pin side. None of the screws were broken, but it's crowning in the middle (first panel, first set of screws back from the seam), so it's getting a screw there. I practiced drilling holes on a spare piece of older lane panel, so I think I've got the procedure down; now I think I need to get ahold of a drill guide thingamabobber for at least the pilot hole. Neither Home Despot nor Lowes seem to have them in stock, and while I can no doubt get them at The Cheap Tool Store That Shall Not Be Named, the reviews were iffy. Grainger supposedly has one, but that one was rated even worse.

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                • #9
                  Shimming under panels in the heads will result in cracked panels due to the gap the shim leaves and ball impacts to the top. Were the panels installed over existing wood lanes? I'd strongly recommend checking the toe screws. These go in at about a 45 degree angle along the side of the lane into the stringers under the lanebed. If they break, or start to loosen, the outside of the lane rises up, creating a dish for readings of depression or excessive crosswise tilt measurements.

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                  • #10
                    I know it is expensive but things like that is better left for the people who install this stuff full time. Saves a lot of headaches. Unless you have the open time to mess with it. You never know what you will run in to. JMO .Flat gutters tail planks etc piece a cake.
                    Pain is the weakness leaving body
                    Courage is the other side of Fear
                    RICK

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 9Nman View Post
                      Shimming under panels in the heads will result in cracked panels due to the gap the shim leaves and ball impacts to the top.
                      The thought had occurred to me, but given my lack of expertise, the deadline I'm up against, and advice given by one of my predecessors, this is what I'm going with.

                      Originally posted by 9Nman View Post
                      Were the panels installed over existing wood lanes?
                      No, thick synthetic -- I want to say Anvilane of some flavor, as the center dates from the late 80s.

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