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Zot quick drop rake and triggering

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  • #31
    For now I got the leds to light up. Thanks for checking for red led light inside emitter. I could see read from naked eye on other lanes but not on this lane that am working on. So double checked the emitter receiver hookup in tdm and they were crossed. Put on right now works. But i did check for this last week in case there were crossed and they never lite. So as you have stated maybe the emitter led is going weak. I do have new emitter receiver coming.
    Yes it does constantly recycle when LEDs not light
    Ok right side mercury switch in the down closed position .goes to right side of tdm
    the left side mercury switch In the open position goes to the left side of tdm for expander card and splits off for 1st relay 32v and 2nd relay 32v. Assuming these are for rake solonoid and gearbox solonoid that wires ran too.

    i will post a pic of what comes with tdm but has no internal wiring diagram

    Comment


    • #32
      That's good to hear. So I take it your up and running now?

      You might take a couple permanent markers or some finger nail polish and paint the emitter and receiver connectors different colors. Not the whole thing just a little marking so you know which is which. Then mark all your tdm's with the matching marks so in a hurry you can know where they go without tracing the cables back.

      When you get the rest of the information, I will work on a wiring diagram for you. Should be fairly simple.

      If you got the sensors to align then the led's should give you some sense of the strength. If you have good strength then the led is probably still good. However, if you find you are having troubles then as James suggested, you can replace the LED a lot cheaper than the entire unit and it should be good as new.

      Comment


      • #33
        Up date. Things are going fine with that lane. Had another issue with another lane recycling. Got that lane going ok. Seems issues are at the connection for the emitter on TDM.
        Looks like those wires just lay across the top in moles connector. To me not a good way to make a connection.

        Ok new issue. Same thing. No reset 3 ball tenth frame. When it don’t work it locks out every way electrical to cycle punsetter. Replaced with a new TDM. Same problem checked all wiring. I know I asked kanga awhile back on this issue. Is it possible it’s a scoring board where it’s tied into the tenth frame ?

        Comment


        • #34
          The scoring isn't capable of disabling or locking out the TDM function. This doesn't sound like it's a scoring issue, more a wiring or connection problem.

          The reset wires should be connected in parallel with the MIB, just like the managers control wires. Unless someone's done something unique with the installation the scoring will play no part in TDM failure. I think there's a piece of the puzzle missing; pretty common when you're cleaning up someone else's mess.

          Perhaps rough out a wiring diagram of how it's all interfaced to see if you've missed something.
          Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
          Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
          Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
          Kegel C.A.T.S

          Comment


          • #35
            Ya I hear ya Kanga. I did check the wiring awhile ago to. I'll have to go back and see what I can find. It couldn't be the MIB I take it ?

            Comment


            • #36
              You can swap the MIB if you'd like but it isn't designed to stand soley between any operation that can occur externally like the reset circuit or on/off circuit (except if you don't have the mechanics override switch). It's normally connected in series with the managers control circuit (if fitted) so there's another way to turn off the machine from the counter.
              Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
              Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
              Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
              Kegel C.A.T.S

              Comment


              • #37
                Has this always worked this way or did it use to function like it's supposed to? Does this happen all the time or just intermittently?

                When this happens, disconnect one of the wires that goes to the MIB reset relay. Then see if control is returned to the other reset buttons. If it does, then I would suspect the relay on the MIB is either not de-energising or the contacts on it are sticking. You could also swap the MIB out with another one and see if the problem follows the board.

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                • #38
                  Yes its happens all the time. I will check out in a couple of days. Thanks guys.
                  Just off hand can I get a picture of this MIB ?

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by duds99 View Post
                    Yes its happens all the time. I will check out in a couple of days. Thanks guys.
                    Just off hand can I get a picture of this MIB ?
                    This is the best I could find.
                    Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
                    Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
                    Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
                    Kegel C.A.T.S

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      This one was also in the ECT wiring book along with the one James posted. I assume it's just an older version. The one James posted is similar to the one used on the DVS system which is what we had.

                      In either case, if you just remove one of the wires for the cycle on the lane you are having trouble with when it locks up, it should allow you to regain control of the reset buttons if the board is the problem. On our boards, the wires were in a plug that you could just unplug all the wires at once but you can't do that or the machine will shut off due to loss of the start relay. Just loosen the screw on one of the wires for the cycle on the lane you are having trouble with and pull the wire. You only need to do one wire. Don't rely on the indicator led because if the problem is sticking contacts, the board may actually be shutting the relay off and so you wouldn't have an led on if the contacts stick.

                      Like James said earlier, there isn't really any provision to lock out the cycle buttons so a stuck relay on the MIB is about all I can think about. When it sticks like you described, how do you get it going again?
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        I have the one James posted. I don't know about all the LEDs. But not concerned. I'll be going there today. Hard to unhook a cycle wire when i'm not there. So may have to swap board best option and wait for a report if it moved.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          exMech to get it going again you have to manually reset machine on the gearbox clutch.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            After 40 years people still kill me. OK 3 weeks ago I changed out the TDM thinking 180 blockout in it was maybe the issue when this machine would lock up in Tenth Frame and no resets would work. So last week I asked 2 people if the problem was still there. They told me yes. OK went there yesterday and was going to swap MIB boards or check connections. I was told now that the issue went away and its working fine. SO WE WILL see where it goes from here.

                            I want to Thank Both you guys for trying to help me out.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Well I’m back. May have been a bad wire inside emitter from
                              last post.

                              New issue. Kanga this is a scoring issue
                              if you can remember we have comp score with white card on deck to trigger scoring.
                              My question is anybody else to is on 2nd ball it will throw up a spare for score with standing pins left
                              Gonna try newer pins so camera sees them better or bad camera again maybe. Like I said no help and help here is not any better.

                              Owner was talking anout upgrading system now sp he can focus the cameras from front desk. Don’t know if this is better or not
                              Thanks guys

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Scoring a spare is often a result of poor timing; which is caused by the curtain reflection tricking the camera into believing the cycle started at the wrong time. If you get the correct score on the first ball then the issue is not pin visibility. Reducing the camera brightness may help along with scuffing up the entire vertical area of the curtain.

                                What make/model of scoring does he want to upgrade to?
                                Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
                                Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
                                Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
                                Kegel C.A.T.S

                                Comment

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