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motion dectector light switch

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  • motion dectector light switch

    We are looking for a wall light switch that has a motion sensor that turns on lights when it sees motion, and then shuts them off after say 20 minutes of no motion. And, we want the switch to have an off-on switch that we can turn on and bypass the motion sensor. Anybody using such a switch and if so, what is it called and where can I get one. Many thanks.
    Howard

  • #2
    Google Search for motion activated light switch. Can be found on Amazon, most building centers these days or electrical supply house. Look for one that fits your needs. I know people that removed them because they didn't like them but others love them.

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    • #3
      Menards, Home Depot, Lows all have them and you can program them as to how long to stay on after detecting motion. Also... Do NOT attempt to wire it Hot !! You can very easily ruin it.
      Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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      • #4
        Something to keep in mind is that you need a neutral wire at the switch. While this is required by current code, most older switches only has a hot and switch leg and maybe a ground at the switch. Commercial installations require conduit for wire runs so if you have conduit running to the switch then it is easy to add the additional neutral to the box. However, some installations don't use conduit so it becomes harder to do.

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        • #5
          exM is correct. Many switch boxes may contain only a "Hot Line", a "Hot Load" or 2 "Travelers" as they are simply part of a 3 or 4 way switch configuration or just a switch on it's way to the ceiling light. If they were lighted or needed a neutral as will be in your case, electricians would simply use the ground or the switch internally would do this to "Bleed off" the tiny amount of current from the "Night Light". This is really a big "No No". The ground wire is not meant to carry constant current. Now these switches all come with a neutral connection. So you may have to do some fishing in the walls to get a neutral in there if there is not one already. Hopefully there is. Some of the pinsetter mechanics also erroneously hook up the neutral side of the rectifier, cycle solenoid, or light ballast, not realizing they should be connecting to either TS1 F or G for the artificially generated 120V. This happens when they convert their 208 - 240V cycle solenoids or ballasts to 120V. My old machines were all 208V so I did Not need to do this as I always replaced the components with the same voltage.
          Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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