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C1 Pinout drawing

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  • #16
    Re: C1 Pinout drawing

    Originally posted by Bowling_Bias
    I've decided to split 110V inputs to 5 wires and to eliminate all 110V jumpers.
    I hope there's a schematic, drawing, or sketches somewhere.
    That could really mess with the next guy.
    I have opened a 'modified' chassis before.

    I too, have upgraded wire inside chassis before.

    I'm trying to picture your mods in my head, I'll have to draw them out. They sound interesting.

    PinCup
    We leave our greatest mark on this earth with the quality of our craftsmanship.

    Comment


    • #17
      Re: C1 Pinout drawing

      Originally posted by PinCup
      Originally posted by Bowling_Bias
      I've decided to split 110V inputs to 5 wires and to eliminate all 110V jumpers.
      I hope there's a schematic, drawing, or sketches somewhere.
      That could really mess with the next guy.
      I have opened a 'modified' chassis before.

      I too, have upgraded wire inside chassis before.

      I'm trying to picture your mods in my head, I'll have to draw them out. They sound interesting.

      PinCup
      Hi pincup I don't know about bias but as far as kirtron he is a retired electrical engineer. And for every thing we do there is a schematic and revision notes. Engineers over think every thing. We also use 14g wire and solder.
      If you want the pics are at this link.

      click here
      http://s1100.photobucket.com/home/cahoon30
      www.youtube.com/user/cahoon30
      Please buy MADE IN USA!

      Comment


      • #18
        Re: C1 Pinout drawing

        Originally posted by PinCup
        Originally posted by Bowling_Bias
        I've decided to split 110V inputs to 5 wires and to eliminate all 110V jumpers.
        I hope there's a schematic, drawing, or sketches somewhere.
        That could really mess with the next guy.
        I have opened a 'modified' chassis before.

        I too, have upgraded wire inside chassis before.

        I'm trying to picture your mods in my head, I'll have to draw them out. They sound interesting.

        PinCup
        THIS might help a bit

        http://www.bowltech.com/forums/showt...153#post454153

        Originally posted by kirtron
        A toroid will dampen the spike caused by a collapsing inductive field which is what motors are. It will minimize the high voltage spike. The electronics in the chassis is in a hazardous environment. The constant vibrations, ball/pin impacts will enentually cuase connection failures. I have no idea what you were trying to say about my "flawed". The load is shared at the connector pins.
        I'm very interested in this application of a toriod, could you please provide a schematic and parts? Adding the toriod between PS-1 and TS-18 might be a really great addition on to what I'm working.

        My point about the "flaw" is that no load is ever truly "shared" by multiple wires, that the entire load on any given cycle is following the path of least resistance. In practice, yeah, I'm sure that your multiple shared inputs works just fine as the path of least resistance is constantly changing and no single wire is handling the entire load for an extended period of time. Additionally, as I've stated several times, if you use several wires to share a load and the connections to those wires begin to fail, this will limit the number of wires that are in the "share"; it is quite possible that you could start with 5 wires "sharing" a load but end up over time with 1 wire handling the entire burden. This is simply impossible if every load has it's own individual HOT. If a connection fails, you will know immediately because the load will fail to operate.
        82-70 MP Pinsetters+Humpback/Light Ball Clutch/Rocket Rails
        *Monitor repair for Steltronic Elex/SuperElex system! Send me PM!

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        • #19
          Re: C1 Pinout drawing

          The load sharing that I am talking about is the C1 pins in the chassis. Just dealing with the Line (black). If the connection resistance of one pin is 1 ohm. That will cause a voltage drop depending upon the current flowing through it. If you have 4 c1 pins connected together the line will see only 1/4 of an ohm. There will be less voltage drop across the pins. Less heat will be generated and the pins will not get burned. The same thing applies to the neutral line (white). Our C1 pins have been reworked for 3 years and there is no visible damage to any of them. All power lines are 14awg crimped and soldered. A rework is an investment that will save time and money in the long run.
          A Band-Aid will not last, it waits for another one.

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          • #20
            I'm new at this. How do I get the drawing that everyone is raving over? Thank you in advance..

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            • #21
              Originally posted by slanes View Post
              I'm new at this. How do I get the drawing that everyone is raving over? Thank you in advance..

              http://www.bowltech.com/forums/showt...out-and-Wiring

              All my reworked drawings. They print very well, and make life a bit easier for those not as comfortable with 8270 wiring.

              Enjoy,
              PinCup
              We leave our greatest mark on this earth with the quality of our craftsmanship.

              Comment


              • #22
                How to solve pin burn up on chassis plugs

                Motor control box.

                This would be the contactor, caps, resistor and reversing relay.
                Plug the box in to 110v, motor, 24v out of chassis for relays, 1 control wire for forward
                and 1 for reverse.
                Could use the same box on sweep and table motors 2 boxes per machine.

                This would remove the heavy amp load in the chassis.
                And remove a lot of wires on the machine making trouble shouting a lot more straight
                forward.

                Dwight
                split house8-8230kicker,4-8270pbl
                surepick
                wood
                phoenix-s
                As90
                pins 2pair w/amf,2/bruns,2/linds

                Comment


                • #23
                  I thought about something like that. How about sweep and table plug directly into chassis using a 15A twist lock plug? No reason the drop cord could not be plugged to chassis either. Could eliminate a lot of C1 pins and wires. As far as I know those C1 pins are only rated @ 5A
                  Go Pirates

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                  • #24
                    Isn't 3 an output to the BE motor (vs IN), the one many duplicate to spread the load across parallel terminals.
                    .
                    .
                    .
                    This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      thanks

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        A bit honored to have a sticky note atop a Bowl-Tech page.


                        Do I get a plaque or something?



                        PinCup
                        We leave our greatest mark on this earth with the quality of our craftsmanship.

                        Comment

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