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  • Welding

    Haven't actually done any welding for years, so I was up to the challenge when I found this machine that was having problem setting the head pin.
    Someone had welded this before, and I know why the steel "tore" like it did.
    Mild steel, like what the table is made from, does not benefit from being "quenched".
    All quenching does is makes the steel brittle..
    And who ever did this weld previously had burnt a hole in the square tube and tried to fill it in with weld material.
    I tried to concentrate the heat into the angle steel that I was welding on.
    I was trying to not burn a hole through the square tube myself, which I didn't do.
    Not pretty, but I think it will last for years to come.
    Just gotta pick up a spray bomb and cover it up.
    This post had been previously welded. Looks like it had been "quenched" with water to cool it down. #1 pin holder was dropping pins all night. No one could figure out why. Quick and dirty gets it done. Cleaned the paint back a bit. Wire feed welder with shielding gas.
And nope, didn't cool the weld with water. Hopefully this lasts for a while longer.
    Bobbie Bees

  • #2
    Wondering out loud....at this point, i'd think there would be some kind of bolt on sleeve/bracket/support thing devised to beef up or replace the end pieces. Still haven't seen the table attach bolt beef up aftermarket item yet, maybe that'll get some ideas flowing......

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    • #3
      Looking at the whole table and Original welds, I'm thinking yikes. Looks like entire structure is very "light". Have never worked on these so don't know if this is a widespread failure problem. These machines are fairly "new" by A -A2 standards. The old A's are built like tanks. I had a lot of weld failures on the Japanese machines. I guessing the steel was not the grade of the original machines, the welds looked bad, etc. Beefing up the structure with gussets helps but now that this area is stronger, it may cause failures in other areas as the stress is essentially transferred to another part of the assembly. It looks like the whole Original weld may have been bad judging from the weld separation from the parent material, "Poor Penetration" and "Excessive fillet" material. At the power plant, most of our welds were full penetration welds, not fillet welds. It takes more prep and skill but this was required by our procedures. There is a tun of info on the net on welding. I've attached a few sites for those interested. A few tricks that might help: 1) Clean the metal thoroughly removing all paint, rust, and other impurities. 2) Preheat the metal. Warm up the parent metal, ( NOT RED HOT), just warm, it will drive out the moisture which is always present, even in small amounts. This will cause porosity and weld failure. 3) Make sure there are no drafts while welding, drafts mess with the shield causing a bad weld. 4) If stick welding, scratch start the weld ahead of where you will start the actual weld so that you go 'Back" over the start area to remove the "Hard Spot" caused by the start. 5) When done welding, heat the weld area Cherry Red, wrap it in a fire retardant blanket, (can't say asbestos anymore), and let it slowly cool to help relieve some of the stress and relax the grain structure of the metal. This is poor substitute for true stress relieving procedures but for mild steel it helps. I only did TIG and Stick Welding at the plant so I can't help with wire welding. Here are a few sites I picked out.

      https://www.millerwelds.com/resource...ding-technique

      http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...netration.aspx

      https://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781590708668_ch06.pdf

      May want to look at the area in the pic I've included. There is a crack below the new weld. This will cause the metal to "tear" and fail prematurely. Could grind it out and radius the area to relieve the stress.

      Weld 2.jpg
      ALL Files Scanned with MALWAREBYTES PREMIUM Version 3.3.1.2183 and AVAST INTERNET SECURITY Version 18.1.2326
      Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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