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Pins Frequently Enter Ball Door

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  • Pins Frequently Enter Ball Door

    So, this is something I've been trying to figure out since my Facility Manager can't seem to fix it...

    Details: solenoid wires are not switched, all springs are in good shape including the door tension spring which cannot be moved any further, all button latches adjusted correctly, and all parts greased and oiled as needed

    My FM thought that the cushion flaps that are attached to the impact trips on the bottom were the issue. I've played around with the thickness and cut-off of the flaps when making my own out of old transport bands and nothing really helps. Those flaps even started trapping some pins in front of the ball door which is why I adjusted the cut-off. Keep in mind that I replicated the official flaps perfectly. The plastic deflectors at the bottom on both sides have also been adjusted to the book's measurements and been messed with in various ways. I can't seem to fix this.

    Any advice would be appreciated!

  • #2
    How much slack is there when the solenoid plunger is manually pulled up? A cotter pin or piece of craft wire needs to be installed in the hole of the plunger with the rod extending from the bottom of the plunger. If there is slack there, the action of the plunger is not sufficient to catch the door latch as reliably as it should.
    I would also make sure the door itself is not able to move up/down on its pivot rod.

    Personally, I had a problem when using old t-bands to try and fashion pin flaps. I went back to the OEM ones because of the stiffness of the band. I know others have had success, but not me either. The other trick might be to add a piece of green round belt to the back side of the ball cushion. I think it was A-Ron who posted a pic/link about it....not sure exactly who, but essentially you cut a piece of green belt and install it as a second layer of pin flaps -- but it's only one piece of belt. If you search the GS section it'll pop up from earlier this year or last year.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by loadtoad View Post
      How much slack is there when the solenoid plunger is manually pulled up? A cotter pin or piece of craft wire needs to be installed in the hole of the plunger with the rod extending from the bottom of the plunger. If there is slack there, the action of the plunger is not sufficient to catch the door latch as reliably as it should.
      I would also make sure the door itself is not able to move up/down on its pivot rod.

      Personally, I had a problem when using old t-bands to try and fashion pin flaps. I went back to the OEM ones because of the stiffness of the band. I know others have had success, but not me either. The other trick might be to add a piece of green round belt to the back side of the ball cushion. I think it was A-Ron who posted a pic/link about it....not sure exactly who, but essentially you cut a piece of green belt and install it as a second layer of pin flaps -- but it's only one piece of belt. If you search the GS section it'll pop up from earlier this year or last year.
      Thanks for the quick reply! I'll reply back on Saturday with an update. Maybe I'll shoot my FM a message about it. I'd prefer to keep the machines as they were instead of jerry-rigging things but that seems to be the case in most instances.

      The point you made about the stop collars on the ball door pivot shaft is interesting because when you actually look at the assembly diagram, the top collar is shown to be about 5mm away from the mount/frame. All of my ball doors have the top collars as such. That's why there are holes for cotter pins on the shafts, no? I'll check those plungers; let's hope that's the case!

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      • #4
        how are you adjusting the ball door locks with your hands or with a ball at the ball door...?
        if with you hand theres the issue you have to use a 6lb ball at the door then adjust door lock to 5mm.
        we had same issue when a fellow coworker used his hand not a ball.
        all you need is a 6lb ball and 4 credit card(the thickness is around 5mm) slide between door lock actuator arm

        could also be wad load toad said

        i have old pieces of tband on the back of the cushion like the green belt mod it works fine but most of the lanes have the green belts there
        also just make sure doors are centered

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        • #5
          What type of Tban is on the machine with the problem? If it is one of the shinny slick ones I would put in a ugly white one. They seem to have more gripping action. What I am doing whenever I pull a Tban I raise the front of the support bracket by 5/8". It creates more angle which allows pins to feed into elevator and prevents them from pilling up in front of door. Only modification is drilling a 7/16 hole below original hole location. Works great.
          Later Chief

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          • #6
            accell pic.pngThe cotter pin / craft wire used to be a modification, but is standard enough now it's in the parts book - as shown by item #37 in next post. The bottom collar should have the door up barely against the top bracket - with the nylon spacer as a bearing installed. Too much slack here will have the door lower than it should and allow for more problems with locking out the button lock.

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            • #7
              accell door points.pngAlso note that item #30 can crack and cause flexing that leads to inconsistent door locking. Right about where the arrow and ID number are labeled is where I have found cracks a couple times.

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