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  • #16
    JJ you dont have that book on PDF from that electrical seminar do you? I had one from 2005 but lost it along the way
    If its still broken, guess it wasnt in the parts budget.

    Z

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    • #17
      after getting into this a little more I have an incoming voltage at the plug of 214v. Measuring voltage across TDM 19,20 Im coming up with 93.5 volts. across 16, 17 I come up with 0 v The time delay unit that I have in there is a zot time delay Plus unit.
      If its still broken, guess it wasnt in the parts budget.

      Z

      Comment


      • #18
        A little more info. Found some pretty crispy wiring on TS2 for the 1,2 ball light replaced the entire wire through the channel because I saw a spark down in that section when I powered it up. Im curious if one of my jam swithes were to have broken wires, would that cause me to have the issue with the cycle solenoid? replaced the rake trip swith with one I knew was good so I eliminated that from the chain. The lane itself runs fine without issue other than I can't get the cycle solenoid to fire. Im really losing it looking at this schematic,lol.
        If its still broken, guess it wasnt in the parts budget.

        Z

        Comment


        • #19
          bmp
          If its still broken, guess it wasnt in the parts budget.

          Z

          Comment


          • #20
            If you've jumpered 19 and 20 AND you have the appropriate voltage at the socket for the cycle solenoid (when it's suppose to be energized), then the only thing left is the solenoid-plug and cable. It can't be the solenoid if you've already swapped it with a known working one...so that's all that's left.
            Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
            Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
            Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
            Kegel C.A.T.S

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            • #21
              The voltage readings you are getting are strange which could explain your problem. When you jump 19 to 20, you are bypassing the tdm and all low voltage circuits so it wouldn't matter if there was a problem on the low side or not. You could have a problem there but if you jump 19 to 20 and the solenoid doesn't fire then you've got high voltage problems as well. Ignore the low side for the time being because if your high side isn't working you won't work anyhow.

              The zot plus has troubleshooting lights on it. It should tell you if you have power to the unit. What are the power and other lights telling you?

              Having said that you can test the tdm and low side system by the following procedure.

              1) Power machine down and unplug cord.
              2) Remove wires from tdm 19 & 20. Wire nut them separately or place electrical tape on bare ends so not to accidentally touch them.
              3) Turn machine back on.
              4) Set ohm meter to read resistance and place leads on 19 and 20. You should get infinite ohms.
              5) Push reset button while watching meter and the reading should go to 0 ohms.

              If you get these readings then the low voltage side including the tdm are operating properly.

              Your high side voltage readings are not consistent. When you took the readings in a previous post and got 120 V I assume these were taken to ground. In either case, with 120 V at these terminals, you can't possibly get 93 V between them. If the relay was stuck you would get 0 V and if it was open you would get at least your 214 V which is a strange voltage in itself. (high for a 208 V system and low for a 240 V system) This is assuming you are using 240 V solenoids.

              1) Disconnect power from the machine.
              2) Remove the wires from 19 and 20.
              3) Turn the machine back on and test the voltage between these two wires again. Make sure meter is set to ac voltage reading.
              4) Touch the two wires together and see if the solenoid triggers. You are now playing the part of the tdm.
              5) If solenoid doesn't trigger in step 4 then shut power off to the machine and unplug the cord.
              6) With the wires still disconnected and the meter set to ohms.
              7) Test resistance from each wire to ground. (one test lead on wire and one to ground) You should get infinite ohms. Do this for both wires.
              8) Trace each wire to make sure there are no bad wires or loose connections.

              Since the high side was disconnected from the tdm in the second procedure above, you have completely isolated the high side wiring. You should now get either your 214 V that you read at the plug between the two wires from the tdm 19 and 20 or you should get 0 V. Again, make sure the meter is set to ac voltage.

              Go to a working machine and perform these these tests and the ones listed previously. This should confirm the procedures for you and give you the confidence you are doing them correctly. Also, check the voltages requested previously on a working machine and report those back here. Troubleshooting the reset system should take less than 5 minutes to isolate the area of the problem. Report back your findings and we can go from here.

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              • #22
                I should be in there this morning on the machine by 11 or so. gotta get a beer delivery first.whats bugging me is that funky ready off 19. If im not mistake thats the one that comes off of the lower contactor pole. cant rem at the moment if that was 19 or 20 but at any rate wouldnt that signify a weak pull on the motor contactor or am I missing something here
                If its still broken, guess it wasnt in the parts budget.

                Z

                Comment


                • #23
                  Ok so after talking with Joel and Exmech regarding this mess I have on my hands the only conclusion that I could come up with was to run a new cord from the cycle solinoid back into the electical box. That solved my issue with the solenoid not firing. Although I haven't found anywhere that might have caused the drop off in voltage as of yet In the wire that I took off the machine. Sometimes I guess the obvious is the answer. Even though I took away all of the dead parts in that wire, replacement of the entire piece solved it. Thanks guys for the help and Ideas. Joel, it was the escentric adjustment.
                  If its still broken, guess it wasnt in the parts budget.

                  Z

                  Comment

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