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A2 motor to pulley belt (long belt ball return)


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  • A2 motor to pulley belt (long belt ball return)

    We've had this problem for about for months and every time we do work on it it's good for a week. We've made time adjustments, I've replaced to pulleys and all the hardware with no true fix. The motor to pulley belt keeps popping off and I'm getting close to the end of my rope here.

    The long belt has run straight across both pulleys with about a mil of movement or none at all when a ball pass through. It's usually fine with anything over 13 pounds, anything under is stuck at the entrance with the small belt just popped off.

    Any suggestions?

  • #2
    Get the Zot accelerator support kit #420206 and say goodbye to accelerator problems. If the small belt isn't tracking properly on the motor drive or large front pulley you can shim the motor at either end to get the belt just right.


    • #3
      Honestly, I have no clue why I didn't think of shims before. It doesn't track properly on the pulley at all which could be the cause. From what I'm looking at that support kit I'm not sure it would help much. I'll get pictures of the accelerator up before I close tonight.

      Shims should work, if they don't I'll have to look into the support kit more but the owners are pretty tight with the money around here. I'm also the "only" mechanic here.

      One of the owners has been working on A-2's for years but has pretty much clocked out since last year. I can do the job but I'm learning as I go. So thanks for the guidance!


      • #4
        Your accelerator belt is shifting when balls come through because one or both of the pulleys is worn. The pulleys are supposed to crown in the middle because the belt likes to ride the high spot. I have turned pulleys in the past and had good luck with them. It's time consuming, but if you have more time available than money it can work. If you have more money than time, buy new pulleys and save up for the Zot kits.


        • #5
          Also scrub up you acc trough with a scourer. The ball rotating sideways is what causes the belt to drift which will bump the drive belt off. You may get good tracking most of the time but on occasion the ball could still be slipping on the trough.

          I also 2nd the lift kits.
          Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
          Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
          Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
          Kegel C.A.T.S


          • #6
            I'll take a look at some of the spare pulleys I have. The tracking is slightly off. The reason I wasn't sure about the zot Diagram was the peak seemed significantly higher than the ones that we have in the illustrations. Looking at the rear view of the long belt on the pulley though it's not sitting center.

            I'll go ahead and try the shims first and see what that does, it always does seem like the bowlers who don't regularly take care of their equipment seem to cause this problem too. I didn't run into it last night but it's also a high-money Men's league. Whereas I had some Senior Bowlers on it today and it popped off three times in a row. So I'll take a look into scrubbing up the Accelerator trough a bit too.

            I'm a bit short on time for the next couple weeks till summer hours actually start. I'm Mechanic, Cook, Desk, Event Planner, so on and so forth.

            I'll get back on how the shims and scrubbing go, attempt to pitch the zot kit as I know the owners bowl as well and they're really tired of hearing about this.
            Attached Files


            • #7
              From the pictures it appears that your belt is tracking to far to the left ((towards the even lane). The belt should be centered directly over the trough. The center of the pulley and the center of the trough are two different things. The pulley has an extended outer edge where the drive belt runs so you need to get the center of the crown and the center of the trough lined up . The pulleys have jacking bolts in the cast aluminum supports that carry the pulley shaft, these let you angle the pulley to get the belt centered over the trough.

              The motor mount and the motor have large over size bolt holes that allow you to angle the motor in a verity of ways to get the drive belt to track in the middle of the flat spot on the front puller. But you need to set up the large belt first so its tracking dead center over the trough first.

              It also appears that the Y-gate isn't correctly centered either, The balls from both lanes should enter the trough smoothly from both lanes without any bouncing or slamming into the side of the trough. You have the old style Y-gate stops located at the front of the Y-gate and the stop brackets on those have a tendency to spread apart and open up wider then needed to get the balls to transition smoothly to the accelerator, you can remove the stop bracket and bend it back to the proper dimension. Also the transition plate from the Y-gate to the trough has a spring loaded adjusting bolt with a large hex head on it. It should just barely hold the transition plate off the bottom of the trough, I use to run these plates with about 3/16 gap between the transition plate and the bottom of the trough. The transition plate has two urethane mounting grommets where it mounts to the Y-gate, make sure they are in good shape as these support the ball as it moves through the Y-gate to the accelerator trough. If the transition plate is loose the ball will bounce up when entering the the trough and make contact with the belt at the bottom of the pulley. The ball should contact the belt past the rear pulley not where the belt is touching the pulley. Make sure the accelerator mounts, where it is bolted to the top of the kickback are good and solid and keep the accelerator from sloping around left and right. you can buy mounts any where: but the studs on these mounts are of two different lengths, so if you use standard vibration mounts you will need to cut one stud shorter than the other where it threads into into the slide plate in the top of the kickback plate.

              One last thing you need to do regularly once you get everything lined up and tracking right is to clean the inside and outside surface of the long belt. With as much oil as is being dressed on lanes today, oil migration is a PITA. Clean pit-covers and ball wipes, front and back are a given fact today. And use a good quality degreaser that has a neutral PH or as neutral as you can get. I use to use a product called Triple-O from State Chemical out of Ohio, It was even approved by Brunswick to strip ArmorPlate lanes back in the day.

              Also as a side note, blow/vacuum out your accelerator motors from time to time, they really get nasty inside. And the Westinghouse motors have oil cups on the sleeve bearings, put a few drops of oil in them every once in awhile. They will love you for that. Never, but never hammer an accelerator pulley onto the motor shaft, the shafts are special and are cut down to fit the pulley bore and bend really easy. That's why those motors cost so much, if need be clean out the pulley bore and the shaft until the pulley slips on smoothly and make sure the set screw is tight.

              Oh, one more thing that messes up an accelerator and makes it throw belts is at the front and rear mounting points are cross brackets that go between the vibration mount and the frame of the accelerator. Check and make sure neither bracket is broken/cracked on either side, this will let the accelerator frame twist and turn as the ball is going through and cause the belt to move.

              Have fun...........


              • #8
                Accelerators are a poor value for money proposition.
                Consider replacing with ball booster.


                • #9
                  I know several centers that have drastically slowed down their accelerators. Smaller drive pulleys, slower motors. They can then remove the retarder at the front end saving more maintenance. Have also cut a slot in the older style pans to let an errant pin fall into the kickback instead of jamming up at the lift. They also installed the ZOT lift kits. I realize these are a lot of mods but according to them, they are worth it. And you are right HP, never had this problem with my boosters.

                  Booster Track Support C.jpg
                  ALL Files Scanned with MALWAREBYTES PREMIUM Version and AVAST INTERNET SECURITY Version 18.3.2333
                  Everything has to be Somewhere !!


                  • #10
                    We're currently in the process of cutting holes in the under carriage for pins to drop through (it's a very uncommon problem for us, maybe once a year?). I'll be able to work on the machine on Monday though, this is all great information to have.


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