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Gearbox jumping while cycling

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  • Gearbox jumping while cycling

    Hey guys, I was asked by a nearby center to come by and check a machine out for them. I haven't seen the machine myself yet, but I wanted to tell you guys the owners description of what's going on. If you guys could just tell me every possible issue i could look for when I get there. The owner says that when the machine trips and the 4:1 starts rotating, at some point the gearbox jumps violently. I immediately think a broken tooth somewhere in the gearbox, but what are you guys thoughts? That's all the info I could get out of him. Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Bronze gear is bad. Get ready to change a 4 to 1

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    • #3
      My first thought as well. Thanks Joel.

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      • #4
        Enough broken teeth on the bronze gear results in the machine failing to complete its cycle. It can also lead to the GB locking up.

        If however it appears the GB is hiccuping it's usually a worn key on the 1:1. It requires a new shaft, gear and key. It's most noticeable just on or after 90, 180 and 270 degrees.
        Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
        Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
        Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
        Kegel C.A.T.S

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        • #5
          Hiccup is a worn/ loose key.

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          • #6
            Make sure the U bolts attaching the gearbox to the frame are tight as well -- in case the jumping is a large physical movement because 250 pounds of unsecure metal is moving around when it shouldn't be.

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            • #7
              Usually if you hold your breath for as long as you can and tighten your gut muscles, the hiccups will go away - LOL. Seriously - had one 1:1 key get loose, you will see a "slight rocking or shifting" at the spots James spoke of, bad 4:1 bronze gear is usually a much more pronounced shift depending on how many teeth are missing or damaged.
              Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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              • #8
                I often hear that a broken gear tooth maybe at fault. I have never encountered a broken, cracked or worn shaft tooth. From camparisons of other machinery boxes, the brunswick box is over engineered. The sacrificial worm gear does what it was designed for. I have seen truck gearboxs capble of 100 tonne load with less engineering than the Brunswick box.
                JMO

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                • #9
                  Well, I visited the center. Upon inspection and running the machine, it had a hesitation at about 20 degrees and once again around 290. I pulled the worm shaft, and could see some teeth that were slightly chewed up. I drained the oil and wow...It was full of bronze. I pulled the 4:1 and one tooth was nearly completely gone, among others chipped. I've since rebuilt the 4:1 and will be going back to the center in the next few days to get it back together. You guys think that should be the whole issue, or you think that it could be one of a couple of problems. As in the previously noted "key" failures and such.

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                  • #10
                    Think you will have fixed it by replacing the worm gear.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Headpin View Post
                      Think you will have fixed it by replacing the worm gear.
                      Yes sir, i did. new worm gear and o ring for the shaft

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                      • #12
                        As long as you are Not Using the dashpot for timing control, would recommend going to a "Heavy" oil, really a grease, for better lubrication. The bronze gear requires this type of lube due to the extreme pressure on it. See this post: Preventative Maintenance - A, Jets, A2 Gearbox Oil
                        Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mickeygm View Post
                          As long as you are Not Using the dashpot for timing control, would recommend going to a "Heavy" oil, really a grease, for better lubrication. The bronze gear requires this type of lube due to the extreme pressure on it. See this post: Preventative Maintenance - A, Jets, A2 Gearbox Oil
                          Yes sir, dashpot is still in use.

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                          • #14
                            When I went to the "heavy oil" back in the 70's before electronic triggering, I just backed the dash pot all the way out. Per 2017 specs: 7. There shall be a minimum of three seconds between the time the ball reaches the pit and activates the cushion or back stop and the pin table descends and contacts the standing pins. (No max that I could find). So need to try to observe that. You can adjust the pot even with the heavy oil but it was a bit of a problem in the very cold weather, (sub-zero/single digits). We did have some heat in the pits, but if it got too cold, I would readjust the pot as triggering was too slow. If you're in a warmer climate, probably wouldn't be a problem.
                            Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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                            • #15
                              And the heavy, anti-leak oil idea came from a mechanic in Muskegon at a 60 lane center. We had visited it on one of the weekends while at Br Pinsetter school. He was very informative and helpful. I started using this in the mid 70's on 24 @ Olympic and 8 @ Beloit, 3000 serial # machines. NEVER did a 4:1 on those 24 or at the 8 lanes I had at Beloit Lanes, also serial 3000. If you look at one of my posts on gearbox clutches, you'll see a pic of the 4:1 at the critical failure spot, Not a Spec of wear on it.
                              Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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