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  • LED lights.....

    Hey guys, Well I have plug and play LED pit lights that are not coming on when i replace the bulb.... What type of information does anyone have that will help me get this working ? rewiring? different ballasts? I have done a search on the site about it but the most information that i can find , is the 1/2 ball lights.... I saw the outdoor led flood light i really like that. any help would be great, thank you !!

  • #2
    Here is the information on the new lightbulbs.

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    • #3
      I have seen some Philips 20 watt that are supposed to plug in and work like those. There's a list of manufacturers numbers for ballasts that will work with them. All magnetic ballasts. And then some of the ones on the list that will work with a fluorescent won't work with the LEDs. They won't work if you wire them directly without a ballast.

      Anyway. Find a ballast that will work with some of the bulbs you have, Throw away any bulbs that won't work with it. Then try to find more ballasts like the one that works. Contact the company you bought the bulbs from and try to get a list of ballasts that will work for them.

      Or try to find bulbs that will work without ballasts. If you find some please post what make and model they are.

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      • #4
        LED strip lighting way better in all aspects when comparing with tubes.

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        • #5
          I believe he's using the LED retrofit "bulb". They're tricky when using older fittings.
          Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
          Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
          Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
          Kegel C.A.T.S

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          • #6
            ALright so, contact them, and see what they can get me without using a ballast. Is there anything that i need to worry about when it come to the voltage from the machine so they dont over heat or anything into that nature?

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            • #7
              Led's technically do Not use a "Ballast" It is most often called a "Driver" or sometimes a "Transformer. Either way it reduces 120 / 240AC down to 12 / 24 DC for the LED. Many LED's come with the Driver built into the bulb. To convert an old florescent fixture, you simply have to Remove the old ballast and direct wire the sockets to supply power. One note !! many of the socket ends are poorly constructed and easily loose contact with the pins of the bulb so be sure to check these if your fixture is not working. I recommend purchasing an LED with a built in driver so you don't have to replace the ballast with a driver. Here is a "Horse Shoe" court we just converted with "Flat Corn, or pie plate, LEDS (that is, they are flat fixtures with the all the LED's mounted on a flat surface vs. the round corn lights that have them all the way around in a circle. The flat corn no longer need the large reflector supplied in the fixture and these came with a built in driver so again, we simply removed the old ballast and direct wired the LED. 4 - 150 Watt sodium vapor bulbs were replaced with 4 - 27 Watt LED's. So the court is essentially lit by a 100 Watt light bulb and it is brighter!!

              Here are shots of my old place. Beloit Lanes - same conversion was done on the lane lighting. 2 - Single pin 8 foot florescents were replaced with one LED with a built in driver. We did use two in the pits but one whole row of lights were removed. Pin deck lights were also converted to eliminate the troublesome pin deck lights.
              PS... HP, it's a lot easier to throw the shoes if you remove the horse !! LOL ALL Files Scanned with MALWAREBYTES PREMIUM Version 3.5.1.2522 and AVAST INTERNET SECURITY Version 18.4.2338


              Horse Shoe Pit 2 C.jpgHorse Shoe Pit 1 C.jpgLight 1 C.jpgLight 2 C.jpgLighting 4a C.jpgLighting 4 C.jpgLighting 2C.jpgLighting 1C.jpg

              Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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              • #8
                I have found out from personal experience is the plug n play LED tubes need electronic ballasts in the fixtures.
                Very few will work with the old magnetic type ballasts.

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                • #9
                  Forget the ballasts and go with integrated LED's. Tubes. Plug, Play and forget.

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                  • #10
                    Folks, please read post # 7 in this thread. It is true, some LED bulb manufacturers make an LED that will work with a ballast BUT they are not very efficient. HID, (High Intensity Discharge - Mercury-vapor lamps, Metal-halide (MH) lamps, Ceramic MH lamps, Sodium-vapor lamps, Xenon short-arc lamps), lights require a ballast in order to generate the extremely high voltage required to initiate the electric arc inside an HID bulb. Standard florescent bulbs also need a ballast. LED lights operate in a completely different way and don't need a ballast; they do require direct current (DC) but this power converter is usually built in to the LED light. You are better off removing the ballast and Direct Wiring the socket ends.
                    Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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                    • #11
                      I agree that designing an LED to use with a fluorescent ballast is not my preference. I would rather eliminate the ballast when changing to LED. However, the original question was "How do I make these stupid bulbs work?" The answer to that is find out if the bulbs were designed to work with magnetic ballast, electronic ballast, or no ballast and then find out what is in the fixture.

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                      • #12
                        No offense, this should answer your question. From the Batteries+Bulbs website
                        • Daylight color Frosted T8 glass with G13 base
                        • Plug and Play design - direct replacement for 48" T8 fluorescent
                        • 1800 lumen output with 50000 hour rated life
                        • DLC qualified with 5 Year Warranty
                        • Saves up to 48% in energy consumption versus fluorescent tubes (Note how inefficient this design is !!)
                        • Confirm ballast compatibility before installation - contact store for details
                        • Werker 48" 5000K 82 CRI LED lamp
                        • Have questions? Contact one of our light bulb experts.



                        Also refer to this site for wiring tips: https://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/bl...about-sockets/

                        Whenever I purchase/install LED lighting that I am Not familiar with, I speak with as many techs as necessary at various distributers until I am satisfied that what I am purchasing will perform as desired.
                        Everything has to be Somewhere !!

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                        • #13
                          Not wanting to jump into the middle of this debate i'll just post the information you seek and say if you need to replace your ballast to make it work, I'd just throw another fluorescent tube in it and call it good.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            led fluros dont use the ballest or starters they have them already fitted inside the tube ends just have to rewire your light fittings
                            im never wrong just askme

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                            • #15
                              At my main center i been installing ballest bypass LEDs. all you have to do is wire the ends of the fixture. one end both wires to the white wire and the other end to both wire to black and figure out witch end is getting 120 volts the other end should get about 60 or less. the side that gets 120 volts is your load the other is your nutral wire. i hape this helps out. and the price is good to i pay $14 a bulb

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