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Detector Rod Adjustment


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  • Detector Rod Adjustment

    I am currently doing my first detector rod adjustment. The first thing the book tells you to do is adjust the gap between the oor controller and the blocking surface on the detector disc to 1/16 of an inch. Mine is completely closed. I am wondering how i can spread the gap 1/16

  • #2
    Not sure I understand everything you say. But I've never worried about any gap in the OOR controller mechanism when adjusting the detector rod.

    Simply run machine to 90 degrees on a strike cycle and ensure the strike cam follower has fallen into the low dwell of the timing cam.


    • #3
      This is normally only an adjustment you need to make when you remove a detector and the second part of the procedure is generally all that is needed for general adjustments. However, since this is your first adjustment, it's good to know what's going on. Also, you don't know what the previous guy did so it's good to check his work as well.

      You need to be careful making this adjustment. If you get this set to high then the detector may fail to go into second ball on an out of range condition when the deck is held up on the hook. So the main thing to make sure of is that the deck is at it's maximum height when setting this gap. If the machine stops to far before 0 or to far after 0 then the deck can start to make it's downward motion. If this happens and you set the gap with the deck not at max height, then the detector disk can interfere with the standing pins selector and prevent it from going into second ball on out of range.

      So, make sure the deck is at the maximum height. If your deck has started to come down then this could be why your gap is closed.

      Then the adjustment is pretty simple. You need loosen the locknut as pointed to by the arrow in the picture below. Then screw the rod out to increase the gap (pushes the detector disk counter clockwise) or screw it in to decrease the gap. Make sure to set an out of range pin after both rod adjustment procedures are complete to ensure it goes into second ball.
      Attached Files


      • #4
        exMech - I did have to replace the rod. The previous one was bent, and the hanger the pivot block sits in was broken. And the roller is in the low dwell of the timing cam at 90 degree strike cycle. But when at 0, making the first adjustment, I can screw the detector rod almost all the way out but my detector disc doesn't move. I will check the deck height adjustment along with the deck eccentric to make sure they are on point, and make sure the machine is at true 0 when it is supposed to be, and get back to you. Thank you all for you help


        • #5
          Okay so I checked my deck eccentric and it is where it's supposed to be (at 8 1/2'' when the deck is at it's lowest during a strike cycle). Any ideas on how to get the 1/16'' gap required between the OOR controller and blocking surface on the detector disc? The book says that if the gap is too big cut 1/8' off of the threaded side of the detector rod, but my gap is completely closed. The book says there can be no less than 1/16''. Right now the machine will go through first and second ball like its supposed to, but after 2nd ball it goes through a strike cycle and doesn't set new pins. Like it will sweep the rest of the pins away on 2nd ball like it's supposed to, but then immediately go through a strike cycle instead of setting a full rack. But then I can hit the reset button and it will set a new rack. I know I'm probably being a little confusing but I'm trying to explain it as clear as possible


          • #6
            The plot thickens. It's a little more complex than a simple detector rod adjustment. Sounds like the detector disc is binding up or being prevented from rotating. I'm guessing you have significant wear in the detector preventing the controllers and selectors to raise high enough.

            Need to identify what caused the original rod to bend.

            Have you a spare detector?


            • #7
              With the detector rod unpinned from its housing block. Can you freely rotate the detector disc by pushing up and pulling down on the rod?

              Is it possible the housing bracket has been installed upside down?


              • #8
                Since this is your first time at the detector, I think it's important to make sure we are on the same page. So please don't take this the wrong way but are you sure you are looking at the right projection. You CANNOT use the picture (figure 1) in the book referenced to in part B of the procedure as a reference for part A. If you notice, the picture in the book is showing the standing pins controller yet the adjustment procedure "A" tells you to set the adjustment from the back side of the oor controller projection. Even in the picture I posted earlier showing the lock nut it is showing a 1/16" gap but again they show that reference the standing pins controller and not the oor controller. That is not valid for the procedure part A adjustment. So if this is where your trying to set the gap, your in the wrong place.

                Also note that the pictures in the detector section covering the oor operation is also not correct. In figure 18 on page 2-18 it shows the projection on the oor controller and a blocking surface on the detector disk. While there is a blocking surface lower on the detector disk, there is also one much higher on the detector disk that isn't shown in that picture. The projection that is missing is the one that should be 1/16" from the back side of the projection on the oor controller. The detector disk will not rotate far enough counter clockwise to allow the blocking surface referenced in that picture to be the one we need. The point where the detector rod connects to the detector disk will hit the standing pins controller and prevent the detector disc from rotating that far. It is that interference that prevents the detector going into second ball on an oor if the adjustment in part A is set to large. You can reference the detector section of the parts manual so see the two blocking surfaces on the detector disk. Why they only show one in the picture is unknown to me. Clear as mud? Sorry I'll post the pics if need be just ask.

                Loosen the detector rod from the pivot block so you can move it freely. Then push the detector rod up as far as it will go with the detector at 0 degrees. Make sure the detector disk goes behind the oor controller projection. Because the oor controller sets in the low dwell at 0 degrees, if the detector disk is in front of the oor projection when you push it up, it will only push it up against the front of the projection. At that point you need to raise the oor controller so the detector disk can slip behind it. Then you should be able to set your gap as described in part A of the manual and secure the detector rod to the deck while the deck is at maximum height i.e. 0 degrees. But remember, set it according the the instructions, not the associated picture.

                The most important reference you have are the other working machines. Take a look at what these look like at 0 degrees and yours should look the same. Also, you can measure the distance between the top stop pin and the stop bracket on a good machine to give you a starting reference for adjusting your detector rod distance for part A.

                This may be confusing without pictures but they are on my other computer. Post back if you don't follow what I trying to say and I'll be happy to clear it up.


                • #9
                  Wow. You're right I guess I was looking at the wrong projection (the one the book points out). I looked at the machine next to me and realized the detector disc was in front of the projection instead of behind it. Which but the tube inside of the detector rod way too low. I lifted up the OOR projection and allowed the disc to go behind it where it is supposed to be and now the machine is running like a champ. Thank you all so much, I learned alot from this.


                  • #10
                    Something i did when servicing a few places in my day. I marked each detector rod at the block with a permanent marker so if/when they had to do some sort of work etc, the rod would simply slide-adjust to the level marked. 99% of the time it would be spot guessing if the rod was removed or what have you. A great starting point. (of course CLEAN the area's then mark them with a line)/


                    • #11
                      The detector rod when everything is working right is such a simple adjustment that I've never bothered marking the tube. I can see how it could be beneficial for the totally inexperienced. But should the totally inexperienced be in that position to start with?

                      A little bit of knowledge can be a dangerous thing.


                      • #12
                        Here are some Pics of the area in question that is not covered by the Brunswick procedure, (Correct me if I'm Wrong exM). The BLUE arrow is the OOR Controller with its projection, the RED arrow is the Detector Disk, the YELLOW arrow or arrows shows the Blocking Surface on the Detector Disk or GAP, ( 1/16 " Minimum), between the OOR Controller and the Detector Disk Blocking Surface. ALSO need to remember their are two separate procedures for the the Detector Rod adjustment depending on which type of detector you have, Old or New Style. Mine did NOT have bearings on the Followers, just Metal to Metal contact. There was also a change in Detectors I believe at around serial 90,000 ?? The Brunswick procedures do Not reference the serial number machine that applies to the particular procedure. Maybe someone else here knows. I have included both those procedures here.

                        ALL Files Scanned with MALWAREBYTES PREMIUM Version and AVAST INTERNET SECURITY Version 18.6.2349

                        Detector Rod Adjust 1CL.jpgDetector Rod Adjust 2CL.jpgDetector Rod Adjust 3CL.jpgDetector Rod Adjust 4CL.jpg

                        Adjust Detector Rod_New Style.pdf Adjust Detector Rod_Old Style.pdf

                        Also, here is some info on OOR Operation from the 1988 A2 Service Manual. It unfortunately does Not show the 1/16" gap.

                        OOR Operation.docx
                        Attached Files
                        Everything has to be Somewhere !!


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