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208V Jap A2 blowing 2 amp fuse


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  • 208V Jap A2 blowing 2 amp fuse

    208v Jap A2, accuscore xl. Keeps blowing 2 amp fuse as soon as you turn on the machine.

    To start this mess, Last Saturday the selenium rectifier went out/rotten egg smell. Was replaced by other mechanics and after replacement was done it would blow the 2amp fuse. Had a old 3 pole style motor contactor that they appeared to damage in the process and I changed it out to the magnetic style found normally in the jap a2 electric boxes. Pulled 2 amp fuse so I thought from machine next to me, fired machine up and it ran. Thursday night transformer goes up in smoke, check fuse, wrong amp. Checked all the 2 amp fuses in the house and they're all wrong and in the process of correcting at the moment. Wire in new transformer, back to 2 amp fuse blowing again. MI for accuscore xl the zero light is not on as usual. Could I be chasing a ground in the scoring? I changed out the silicon rectifier for another one on the shelf/double checked the wiring to it and it all appears to be good.

    I've unplugged all the canon plugs and plugs for the mag clutch,motor and cycle solenoid. Without the masking unit hooked up the machine doesn't run and as soon as you hook it up the fuse blows with no other plugs in.

    Any hints as to where to start besides a hand grenade?
    Last edited by 7-10_split; 09-24-2015, 06:51 AM.

  • #2
    could be 1st and 2nd ball lamp that is shorted ,as this can cause the trouble you are seeing or wiring from masking unit.


    • #3
      If the 2amp fuse is blowing, it means that you more than likely have a problem on the high voltage side of the box.
      Is the fuse blowing as soon as you turn on the breaker, or does it blow when you try to turn on the machine with the switches in back?
      Other than the new transformer and motor contactor is this machine wired per factory, or has there been some other work done?
      Answers to these questions will help narrow down where to start looking.
      Either way, it sounds like you have a wire that has melted the insulation and is shorting to ground. Probably not in the scoring system.
      To make the machine run without the masking unit plugged in you can jumper between pins A and B (or 1 and 2 depending on the machine) on the 5 pin cannon plug. These are the pins that go to the masking unit switch and cause it not to run when the masking unit is unplugged. Just be careful when doing this. I use a small piece of solid core insulated wire to create the jumper when I do it, and make sure the machine is turned off before putting the wire in the receptacle.
      You don't have to be crazy to do this job...But it helps!


      • #4
        The fuse is blowing now when you try and turn on the machine. Previously it was blowing when you turned on the breaker, the wire going from A on TS-1 to the cycle solenoid connecter and from the solenoid connector to the motor plug connecter was showing signs of damage/melted so I replaced that.

        Machine is wired factory style as far as I know.

        Haven't made a jumper wire yet, out of correct fuses and running out of machines to steal them from at the moment. Manager is suppose to get some and bring them in when he gets here in about 2 hrs give or take.

        I've been digging around and haven't found any burnt/ground out wires in the electric channel now nor in the electric box.

        Can I unhook the 1/2 ball light from the low voltage terminal and see if that cures the problem and go from there?


        • #5
          That is what I would do disconnect 1st&2nd ballcable and reconnected all other cable , if all is well ,your problem is with masking unit cable or wiring/ shorted 1st or 2nd ball lamp. Have you checked or replaced lamps? Also, did you disconnect the pin light cable?
          Last edited by IBAW; 09-24-2015, 11:04 AM.


          • #6
            Originally posted by IBAW View Post
            Also, did you disconnect the pin light cable?
            Something I forgot about in my first post. Don't know why it happens, but quite often when the rectifier goes it is caused by the ballast for the deck light, or vise versa.
            You don't have to be crazy to do this job...But it helps!


            • #7
              Jumped the 5 pin Canon plug and unplugged the deck light and blew another fuse as soon as I tried to turn the machine on.


              • #8
                I've also unplugged the mag clutch and accelerator and still blowing fuses.


                • #9
                  BY Jumped the 5 pin Canon plug you must unplugged masking canon your short is in masking wiring


                  • #10
                    Unplug everything, motor, solenoid, magnetic clutch, deck light, masking unit, managers control (you will most likely have to create another jumper to go between B and C, or 2 and 3 on the 3 prong plug to get it to run), bowlers reset, and acc. control.
                    With main power plug disconnected, tone each of the prongs on each plug (magnetic clutch, 2 prongs. Motor 3 prongs. Solenoid 3 prongs. Deck light 3 prongs) to ground. On the motor, solenoid and deck light, you should get one prong on each that tones. The others 2 should not.
                    This checks for a short to ground in any of the wires that power these things.

                    I once had a wire going to the motor melt and short against the wire channel. Back before I had a decent understanding of the electrical system. Just about pulled out what was left of my hair trying to find that one.

                    Hopefully you have several spare fuses, or better yet a resettable breaker. I keep a couple of spare breakers on hand to put in if something like this happens to me. I have been putting them in as I rebuild electrical boxes.
                    You don't have to be crazy to do this job...But it helps!


                    • #11
                      I've got a resetable breaker hooked up via alligator clips at the moment.

                      I've unplugged everything. Jumped the 5 pin canon, no managers control with accuscore xl/bypassed when installed. Still trips the breaker.

                      I'm going home for the day and getting back on this tomorrow.

                      Could the motor start or contactor relay have gone bad and that's my problem?

                      It also sounds like the transformer is humming when the machine is turned on and nothing else plugged in. Could the leads be labeled wrong on the transformer?


                      • #12
                        Thermal protector gone bad?


                        • #13
                          If the thermal overload goes bad, it would turn off power to the motor contactor. But would not cause a dead short like it sounds like you are getting. Thus the tests on the plugs for the motor, solenoid, deck light and magnetic clutch.

                          The transformer being hooked up wrong would cause the hum that you are hearing, and possibly cause the problem with the machine. Double check to make sure H1 hooks to TS1-H. H2 hooks to TS1-G. H3 hooks to TS1-F and H4 hooks to TS1-E.
                          On the original wiring for the JAP A-2 H1 goes to terminal 1 on the motor start relay. The other wire from terminal 1 on the motor start relay hooks to TS1-H.
                          You should also check the wires on the low voltage side of the transformer, just to make sure. On the original JAP's the yellow wire goes to the 5amp fuse, with the other side of the fuse going to TS2-9. The blue wire goes to TS2-4. Tan or brown goes to TS2-6. and orange is taped off. On a 208 volt machine the tan or brown wire is taped off and the orange wire goes to TS2-6.
                          Having the low voltage side of the transformer hooked up wrong probably would not cause the problems that you are having, but as long as you are in there it only takes a minute to check and be sure.

                          I certainly am not the best "electrical" person here on BT. So if any of the ones that are want to chime in, please feel free
                          You don't have to be crazy to do this job...But it helps!


                          • #14
                            Well I cannot edit the title, I misread the plate on the machine, they're 200V not 208V.

                            I double checked all the wiring and it is all correct per the diagram and tracing wires from another machine.

                            H1 to #1 on the motor start relay. Other wire going from #1 on msr to H on ts1
                            H2 to G on TS1
                            H3 to F on TS1
                            H4 to E on TS1
                            H5 taped off

                            Yellow to fuse holder
                            Orange taped off
                            Blue to TS2-6
                            Tan to TS2-4

                            I think you have the Blue and Tan mixed up though. Blue goes to TS2-6 and Tan goes to TS2-4 per my diagram and the machine next to it.

                            I appreciate all the help you're trying to give me here. Going to start checking the plugs here in the next few minutes.

                            I'll probably answer back with more thinking out loud questions like the motor start contactor, motor start relay and thermal protector going bad.


                            • #15
                              Need to verify that the transformer is okay before proceeding any further.


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