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pin distribution issues


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  • pin distribution issues

    hi guys...I have a lot of what I call "eleventh pin" trouble this I mean an eleventh pin is in the 7 bucket...distributor moves to 4 pin, machine sits...I have found many potential reasons for this...mostly caused by pinwheel toggle issues..dropping pins when they should be held....I have reduced this dramatically, but I still see pins falling out of the grips, after the pan, on the way down...the pins hit pretty this just about adjusting the length of the toggle assembly, or perhaps need taller rubber pads on the grips? input is welcomed as always!

  • #2
    We have switched our toggle tips to a flat rubber piece held in with a tapered allen bolt. It has greatly reduced pin slipping issues. To make them we take a rubber tube and cut 5/16" thick slices out of it. It can be found here:

    Then we use a 5/16 x 1 course-thread tapered allen bolt, a 5/16 jam nut, and a 3/8 USS flat washer and I usually install it so that the end of the bolt is about flush with the jam nut. Pics are either below or attached. The only adjustments you may have to make is sometimes they hit the distributor pan when they open so if that happens you can either slide the distributor forward a bit if you have room or you can shim the pinwheel back a bit. We usually only have to do this on a low percentage of machines though.

    Attached Files
    Experience: Currently Help Maintain 44 82-30s and 50 82-70s.


    • #3
      11 pin feeds are a problem with the SW5 switch [ pin counter switch ], or pin counter.
      the switch could be going bad or it is out of adjustment.
      A pin falling out of wheel will cause a 20 pin feed not an 11 pin feed
      Later Chief


      • #4
        8230Chief is right. 11 pin feeds are usually caused by the counter. Sometimes if the counter arm bounces after a pin goes through it, the counter wheel will actually move backwards causing it to "uncount" a pin. If this is happening you will need to readjust the counter or sometimes we have added a light spring to the counter arm to keep bouncing to a minimum. To test a machine, all you have to do is raise the counter arm all the way up so it counts 1, then move it about half way back down and let go of it and see if you see any movement of the counter wheel when it bottoms out or bounces. Ideally the counter wheel shouldn't move at all after it initially counts a pin. I should have mentioned this in my first post but your main question was about pins slipping out of the wheel so that's what I focused on.
        Experience: Currently Help Maintain 44 82-30s and 50 82-70s.


        • #5
          Also I found where the pin counter arm hits the metal frame, if it is worn and or the arm is worn it makes it harder to get a good adjustment. it allows to much travel. Easy way to fix if, if you can not weld and build up worn areas is to wrap it with electric tape. This does two things it takes away the extra travel and it has a cushioning affect on the arm less bounce. I understand not everyone is a welder and this is a simple fix that does work. I would put on some wraps on newly welded ones, to prevent wear and keep those babies adjusted.
          Reminder the 8230 was designed with a lot of metal to metal components. Thats how they built things in the old days, anyway to add a bushing or tape to prevent that direct contact is a good thing
          Later Chief,
          PS if you can,I Brazed all my broke track. to repair breaks and to make new teeth at the 10 cup. In the begining i used a file and rat tail file to cut in new teeth. Advanced to a dremal with carbide cutter bit.
          I never purchased a dist. track in my 34 years working on them.


          • #6
            I should have mentioned that I have zot chassis with eagle eyes...


            • #7
              ok, If I remember correctly I used Zot chassis the last two years the center was open. So the 8230 would funtion with BESX scoring. But never hand eagle eye.So if a pin falls out of the pinwheel the Zot would not call for anouther 10 pins. Let me know just for my information, thanks.
              I also made my own toggle tips out of old urethane unimold cushion facings. used wood plug cutter bit and superglued them in, worked great.
              I also glued 6 " piece of distibutor belt in pockets of the pin wheel, where the belly of the pin rests. It kept pins in the wheel. Thanks for posting.
              Later Chief


              • #8
                I really like the redesigns of the rubber tip...I am going to try far as pins falling out of the wheel goes, I have seen the pins fall out just before the proper drop point, when not calling for pins...also see them falling after center, on the way down....I am betting that an improved grip on the pins, will help dramatically...what was used previously was rubber washers from a faucet repair kit...superglued into the existing holder....they don't seem tall enough to me...I like the adjustability of the ones above too..if a pin falls into the pan, the brain doesn't know it...the distributor just moves one the 7pin switch, so it doesn't set pins...also like the idea of belt material in the wheel...maybe that would help with loudness as well...thanks!


                • #9
                  Originally posted by riverview scott View Post
                  I should have mentioned that I have zot chassis with eagle eyes...
                  I haven't worked on 30's for quite some time but I do remember that the Eagle Eyes had to be switched out to the mechanical style. In fact the center also had solid state boards in the counters and they all failed. Just glad they kept all the mechanical parts in a box. Once the counters were put back to original, all problems went away.
                  If it cant be fixed with a hammer, use a bowling pin.


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