Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

3D Printed Half Scale Pinsetter

Collapse

Adsense Classic 1

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 3D Printed Half Scale Pinsetter

    Hello everyone,

    I had posted the beginnings of a finger design a while ago, but I have recently begun to seriously work on a half scale machine. I decided to hold back on respotting for now (Although I have a design reasonably working) and instead focus on spotting a new set.

    Here is a video I made going over my progress: https://youtu.be/sgk1oRRxaJg (sorry for the mediocre quality)

    Before I go any further, I want to say that a majority of the information I typed below is already in the video. I also want to mention that all plastic parts are 3D printed. All designs were 3D modeled by me, with the exception of the gears on the pin holder (I modified a design from thingiverse.com). My dad helped me to put the wood frame together. The color of plastic has no significance. It's just whatever I found cheapest on Amazon, and I switched rolls/colors whenever I ran out.

    So far I've made a GS-like pin holder assembly that seems like it's setting down pins pretty well. Instead of a solenoid, each holder has a servo attached that I can control using an Arduino Mega. This will also let me pick and choose pins to set. Each holder will also have a paddle that hits a switch that will be used for scoring (although I haven’t printed all of them yet).

    The entire table is mounted on a track used for closet doors. The table itself was cut using a friend of a friend's CNC machine. Currently, the frame and table are made of wood, but eventually, I am interested in getting at least some of it to be metal (there's a little bit of play in the frame) or to add metal supports.

    I have also been working on the scoring/programming component quite a bit. I decided to make a proprietary scoring that can send commands to and from the arduino. For example, I can send power commands, pinfall data, run cycle commands (including reset cycles where not all pins are set), and error codes. The idea is anything that would normally be done on a back panel I will be able to do from the scoring. So far I have to type these commands manually into the computer, but eventually I want to make some sort of GUI for this and have it beneath a settings menu and integrated better with the main scoring window.

    The one thing I am currently struggling with is finding a motor to run the table (and eventually another motor for a sweep). If anyone has a recommendation for a motor I would really appreciate it.

    If anyone has any questions or any recommendations, please feel free to provide feedback. Thanks!

  • #2
    That is so cool that you made all your own parts, you should be really proud of your accomplishment.Cant wait to see it as it progresses. Just one favor...slower camera movements, I got a little queasy watching.
    If it cant be fixed with a hammer, use a bowling pin.

    Comment


    • #3
      Here's a link to the motor I use for my deck: http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.co....XEAzxPPS.dpbs
      You can also check out all the other Dayton motors on this site. They have a bunch of 12VDC motors to choose from. Automation Direct is a great source for any control related items you need (push buttons, circuit breakers, terminal blocks, ect https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Home/Home

      Looking forward to watching your progress. Nice job so far.

      Comment


      • #4
        Holy **** this is awesome!

        Love the work you've done, and really love the ability that you've shown with off the shelf parts and 3D printing! What filament are you using, and what 3D printer are you using?

        Very impressing. Looking forward to hearing more on your progress AND seeing more videos. Would also love to see the source code some day!

        Liked & Subscribed!

        -- Jimmy

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by clutchplate View Post
          That is so cool that you made all your own parts, you should be really proud of your accomplishment.Cant wait to see it as it progresses. Just one favor...slower camera movements, I got a little queasy watching.
          Not a problem, I'll try to get a tripod of some sort or at the very least move the camera slower in future progress updates. Sorry about that!


          Originally posted by coasterp View Post
          Here's a link to the motor I use for my deck: http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.co....XEAzxPPS.dpbs
          You can also check out all the other Dayton motors on this site. They have a bunch of 12VDC motors to choose from. Automation Direct is a great source for any control related items you need (push buttons, circuit breakers, terminal blocks, ect https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Home/Home

          Looking forward to watching your progress. Nice job so far.
          Thank you so much for the resources. Dang, that motor is expensive! I might look into a less powerful motor, since if I use a counter weight, it only (theoretically) has to support the weight of 5 pins, and it would also probably mean I wouldn't need a brake (the counter weight would keep it from crashing down). Are you using a counterweight on your machine? Does this seem like a reasonable path to go? Thanks!

          Originally posted by Compy View Post
          Holy **** this is awesome!

          Love the work you've done, and really love the ability that you've shown with off the shelf parts and 3D printing! What filament are you using, and what 3D printer are you using?

          Very impressing. Looking forward to hearing more on your progress AND seeing more videos. Would also love to see the source code some day!

          Liked & Subscribed!

          -- Jimmy
          Thanks man! I'm using Hatchbox PLA on Amazon. It comes in 1kg spools, usually around $22 a spool. I buy whatever color is cheapest.

          The printer I'm using is the Printrbot Play with the extended Y axis upgrade. At the time I bought it (about a year and a half ago I think) it was basically the only budget (under $500) printer that had customer support/a warranty. By default it prints 4"x4"x4", but with the extended Y axis I get a heated bed and it prints up to 4"x8"x4", which is perfect for pin holders for 7.5" tall pins and another reason why I chose this printer.

          The source code is atrocious right now, but I'll definitely be willing to share it once I make a little more progress! I'll probably upload it on github once I figure out how to use it lol.


          Thank you everyone for your feedback and help!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by TheWalkingGeek View Post
            Thank you so much for the resources. Dang, that motor is expensive! I might look into a less powerful motor, since if I use a counter weight, it only (theoretically) has to support the weight of 5 pins, and it would also probably mean I wouldn't need a brake (the counter weight would keep it from crashing down). Are you using a counterweight on your machine? Does this seem like a reasonable path to go? Thanks!

            The source code is atrocious right now, but I'll definitely be willing to share it once I make a little more progress! I'll probably upload it on github once I figure out how to use it lol.


            Thank you everyone for your feedback and help!
            I would not do counter weights. I experimented with them trying to use a weaker motor and results were not good.

            As for your source code, you're going to be making TONS of revisions as you build your machine. Trust me I know. I don't even know what revision I'm on for my PLC program but it's well into the many hundreds including the changes I made today.The good news is everything seems to be working pretty well. I think I'm close to getting it finalized.If you would like to chat offline, send me a PM and we can exchange contact info.

            Comment


            • #7
              Awesome work Adam! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with next! That looks like some really nice quality print jobs you did there. I like how you were able to implement scoring into the program. I am assuming that you are going for a GS style machine so you can set spare combinations.

              As far as motors are concerned, I love windshield wiper motors. At only 12 volts, they should have enough torque to operate the machine but in the event of a jam they should not damage anything and will stall out. If you install the right circuit breaker in line, it will trip the breaker after a second or two of stalling. They run about $25.00. You will have to gear them down most likely but sprockets are not too expensive, so for about $75.00, you can have a geared down sweep/ table motor. The other good thing is that you can vary the voltage to the motor. It helps during the "tinkering" stage to see what speeds will work for you.
              If it can't be fixed with a hammer, try a bowling pin! They're heavier and more surface area for whacking!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by coasterp View Post

                I would not do counter weights. I experimented with them trying to use a weaker motor and results were not good.

                As for your source code, you're going to be making TONS of revisions as you build your machine. Trust me I know. I don't even know what revision I'm on for my PLC program but it's well into the many hundreds including the changes I made today.The good news is everything seems to be working pretty well. I think I'm close to getting it finalized.If you would like to chat offline, send me a PM and we can exchange contact info.
                Good to know with the counterweights. I will definitely have to talk to you about your experiences. Thank you for being willing to help out! I'll PM you.

                I know what you mean with the revisions... I'm on about version 15 on the pin holder, version 9 on the detector plate design, version 8 ish on the finger assembly, and who knows on the programming component. I still want to get a tad further with the program and make the scoring look a little better before I show any source code.

                Originally posted by theultimateandy View Post
                Awesome work Adam! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with next! That looks like some really nice quality print jobs you did there. I like how you were able to implement scoring into the program. I am assuming that you are going for a GS style machine so you can set spare combinations.

                As far as motors are concerned, I love windshield wiper motors. At only 12 volts, they should have enough torque to operate the machine but in the event of a jam they should not damage anything and will stall out. If you install the right circuit breaker in line, it will trip the breaker after a second or two of stalling. They run about $25.00. You will have to gear them down most likely but sprockets are not too expensive, so for about $75.00, you can have a geared down sweep/ table motor. The other good thing is that you can vary the voltage to the motor. It helps during the "tinkering" stage to see what speeds will work for you.
                Thanks! That is basically the only reason why I am going for a GS style machine. (lol) Only downside is this limits my options for a distributor to also resemble a GS machine. I'm thinking about some sort of mode where it will randomize different spare combinations/splits as an alternative game mode, but of course that's much later.

                $75 seems a lot more reasonable, and adjusting the speed would be really handy. (I remember that you made a video showing a box you made that would prevent having to cranking motors and you could adjust the speed using a knob. I thought that was super cool) Did you buy any wiper motor in particular? (Ex. generic one meant for cars, one for trucks, etc). How is the torque affected by adjusting the voltage, if at all? Also, is the motor you are using able to hold the table up even without power, or did you have to add some sort of brake or counterweight? Thanks!

                I've been following both of your machines for so long, and you guys are definitely role models as I continue my machine. I can't tell you how many times I've rewatched the videos both of you have made and just been in awe.

                Comment


                • #9
                  There is actually a Japanese machine out there that uses GS style pin holders and an AMF distributor. It's a weird looking thing on youtube, but I can't find it as of this time. If you take a look at the 1/3 bowling machine that gecko bowl made (not sure if you had seen it) but it used an AMF'ish style distributor. It had a fixed belt, the distributor stuck out the back and was on an X-Y axis that was computer controlled to stop at certain positions. That may be another way to go, but I would like to see a replicated GS style distributor, that would be really cool.

                  The wiper motors were generic, I used to use them a lot on Halloween projects. Frightprops.com has the motors with leads on the motor to make it reversible. Monsterguts.com is where I originally purchased my motors, but they had the negative grounded in the body of the motor. Not a big deal, I had to open the motor, disconnect the wire from the ground and run a separate wire. I am running a 3.5 to 1 sprocket reduction, at 12 volts it gives me just about 12 rpm's, the exact same speed an AMF table and sweep run at. Varying the voltage a few volts lower doesn't really reduce the torque to affect table operation. If you were to use the motor direct drive, there wouldn't be enough torque to run the table up. The table is able to stay in any position without the use of mechanical braking. I have electric braking, but that's just to the stop the table and sweep instantly. There is a spring on the table to help assist it up, but it would run without the spring.

                  Feel free to PM me as well with any questions, looking forward to seeing what you come up with next.
                  Last edited by theultimateandy; 06-11-2017, 12:30 AM.
                  If it can't be fixed with a hammer, try a bowling pin! They're heavier and more surface area for whacking!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by theultimateandy View Post
                    There is actually a Japanese machine out there that uses GS style pin holders and an AMF distributor. It's a weird looking thing on youtube, but I can't find it as of this time. You can still use the GS style pin holders, you just won't be able to set spare combinations.

                    The wiper motors were generic, I used to use them a lot on Halloween projects. Frightprops.com has the motors with leads on the motor to make it reversible. Monsterguts.com is where I originally purchased my motors, but they had the negative grounded in the body of the motor. Not a big deal, I had to open the motor, disconnect the wire from the ground and run a separate wire. I am running a 3.5 to 1 sprocket reduction, at 12 volts it gives me just about 12 rpm's, the exact same speed an AMF table and sweep run at. Varying the voltage a few volts lower doesn't really reduce the torque to affect table operation. If you were to use the motor direct drive, there wouldn't be enough torque to run the table up. The table is able to stay in any position without the use of mechanical braking. I have electric braking, but that's just to the stop the table and sweep instantly. There is a spring on the table to help assist it up, but it would run without the spring.

                    Feel free to PM me as well with any questions, looking forward to seeing what you come up with next.
                    I know the video you are talking about. That was a pretty weird hybrid! I would like to be able to set spare combinations though.

                    I had also thought about a cycle where, in order to set down a spare combo, it would set down all the other pins first, knock them over, then set down the pins desired. For example, to set down the 4-6-7-10 it would first set down the 1-2-3-5-8-9, knock those all over, then set down the remaining pins. Once again, this seems inefficient, especially since I'd like to be able to set back to back spare combos in the future. I'll keep thinking about it though, and I'm leaning towards a GS-type distribution system.

                    Thank you for the resources and the information. This helps me out a ton! I'll look into buying a motor from those sites. I'll PM you if I have a question.

                    Thanks!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I had revised my last post in regards to the distributor on a 1/3 scale machine. I finally found it, it's called .262 scale pinsetter project. Not sure if you had seen it, but here is the youtube video with the distributor running https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDLsHv2Ajt4
                      If it can't be fixed with a hammer, try a bowling pin! They're heavier and more surface area for whacking!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by theultimateandy View Post
                        I had revised my last post in regards to the distributor on a 1/3 scale machine. I finally found it, it's called .262 scale pinsetter project. Not sure if you had seen it, but here is the youtube video with the distributor running https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDLsHv2Ajt4
                        Another amazing project. He hasn't uploaded any videos lately but there are a couple of videos after showing a completed sweep.

                        I'm trying to dig through youtube for that hybrid pinsetter. Not sure if this helps, but I seem to remember it being phrased as an advertisement for it, and in the video it had captions about how reliable it is.

                        Using X and Y controls is another thing that crossed my mind. The problem is overflow pins and if pins load too fast between the distributor moving, say, from the head pin to a back row pin. This could be fixed by stopping the distributor though, possibly similar to an 82-30.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Found it: https://youtu.be/YzSW5RyVCfA

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yep that's it. Looks like they took a 70's and replaced the table with a GS table and called it good.
                            If it can't be fixed with a hammer, try a bowling pin! They're heavier and more surface area for whacking!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              that is awesome man good luck on the rest of the project cant wait to see it finished!!!
                              if you need any other help let me know ill see what i can do for you

                              Comment

                              Adsense Classic 2

                              Collapse
                               

                              phoenix rebuild

                              phoenix lane machine we got from another of our centers
                              seems like pms were not done in a long time
                              and these are just some of the pics
                               

                              Ball accelerator

                              Hello, would this crack in the accelerator motor cause an issue. It's brand new and have one on the way but, it won't be here until next week. I have a pair down due to the motor...
                               

                              Testing Link Belting "PowerTwist Drive"

                              Recently got my hands onto some meters of these: http://www.fennerdrives.com/powertwi...Drive-A/13/4L/

                              At first let me tell you that they are pretty sturdy and very...
                               

                              Ion buffer brush

                              Have Kegel ion model B. Noticed the buffer brush rubbing up against the felt that's attached to the oil transfer assembly (the "door" you open to fill the tanks). This...
                               

                              Preventative Maintenace - Brunswick A, Jets, A2 - Slow Machine - Semi Creepy Speed

                              I really liked the slower speed of Masternut but decided to go a little faster, (the M2SC Conversion - Mickey Mouse Semi Creepy Conversion LOL). Looking at the video on the...
                              Working...
                              X