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Giving a pinsetter another shot after 25 years

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  • Giving a pinsetter another shot after 25 years

    I've been trying to build a working pinsetter for small pins (like the Linds size pins) most of my life. The first set of pins I modeled a pinsetter after were plastic toy pins, filled with ball-plug resin (for weight). I was driven to bowling not just by the game but the "magic" going on just out of sight, the pinsetter. It led me to spend almost 15 years as a pinchaser, then head mechanic on Brunswick A2's. During that time I put a lot of energy in to building a small scale version for myself. My budget was limited but, I did complete some working parts towards that machine. Then I decided to change careers as the salary was horrible in the places I worked. I spent 3 yrs in a votech college for residential/commercial HVAC and have been employed in that field ever since. When I started school the pinsetter was set on the shelf, slowly dismantled over time to save space, and I knew this first attempt wasn't going to make it. After seeing Phil's working pinsetter on YouTube.....I have the bug to try it again, but I could use your help and input. To start, does anyone know what the correct spacing is of the Linds pins center to center? I am planning on a 21" lane width.

    Bob

    Here's a look at whats left of my attempt 25 yrs ago:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2JxL9QXK7I

  • #2
    6" inches between the pins. The Linds pins are half scale. So just take any full size lane measurement and cut it in half for future reference. I use this for reference when needed: http://www.6and2bowling.com/newslett...ualaug2003.pdf

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    • #3
      THANKS Phil!!! Did you use that computer software to draw things out before you started or ?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by GasMaster View Post
        THANKS Phil!!! Did you use that computer software to draw things out before you started or ?
        I use draft it: http://www.cadlogic.com/cad-software/draft-it/ It's a 2D program but for me it works.

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        • #5
          Hi Phil,
          Wish I could find a 3D scanner that would allow me to scan parts in and shrink them down to size. Have you ever thought about using a 3D printer for any of your build...or maybe you already have. If you don't mind me asking, what caused you to tear down that original machine? It looked like it was working good? Without risking anything your going to patent, that is. I really like how the rake on your latest machine works, looks smoother and more solid. I am just trying to skip some of the things that didn't work out so well, if I can avoid them. I am pretty sure I want to go with the scissor fingers like the 82/70's have but, would like the rubber gripping strength that Brunswick had. I was considering using rubber pressure sensing strip switches on the fingers to detect standing pins and to add some gripping ability to the fingers....we shall see how that goes, lol. Any recommendations you can offer (without putting your current machines patents at risk) would be greatly appreciated

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          • #6
            Originally posted by GasMaster View Post
            Hi Phil,
            Wish I could find a 3D scanner that would allow me to scan parts in and shrink them down to size. Have you ever thought about using a 3D printer for any of your build...or maybe you already have. If you don't mind me asking, what caused you to tear down that original machine? It looked like it was working good? Without risking anything your going to patent, that is. I really like how the rake on your latest machine works, looks smoother and more solid. I am just trying to skip some of the things that didn't work out so well, if I can avoid them. I am pretty sure I want to go with the scissor fingers like the 82/70's have but, would like the rubber gripping strength that Brunswick had. I was considering using rubber pressure sensing strip switches on the fingers to detect standing pins and to add some gripping ability to the fingers....we shall see how that goes, lol. Any recommendations you can offer (without putting your current machines patents at risk) would be greatly appreciated
            I have experimented with 3D printed parts. I drew up a part and then I had someone model it in a 3D program and print it. This is the person you really want to ask about 3D printing though: http://www.bowltech.com/forum/small-...cale-pinsetter My old machine looked good in the videos but it had a lot of little bugs. After trying to tweak it for 9 months, I decided it was time to move on. Glad I did. The new machine is very reliable. Also, can you post a link to the rubber sensors you're referring to. Was not aware of them.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by coasterp View Post

              I have experimented with 3D printed parts. I drew up a part and then I had someone model it in a 3D program and print it. This is the person you really want to ask about 3D printing though: http://www.bowltech.com/forum/small-...cale-pinsetter My old machine looked good in the videos but it had a lot of little bugs. After trying to tweak it for 9 months, I decided it was time to move on. Glad I did. The new machine is very reliable. Also, can you post a link to the rubber sensors you're referring to. Was not aware of them.

              I'm not done with my search but, along the line of this.......
              https://www.tapeswitch.com/edges/ts6.html

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              • #8
                They get way too much money for those switches, I'm looking for other options, if there are any.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by GasMaster View Post
                  They get way too much money for those switches, I'm looking for other options, if there are any.
                  I actually had to make my own for my original machine. I actually wasn't aware they made anything like this. I can bet they are pricey too.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by coasterp View Post

                    I actually had to make my own for my original machine. I actually wasn't aware they made anything like this. I can bet they are pricey too.
                    Do a search on Ebay for "tapeswitch" and be prepared to be shocked what they get for a section of these things, over 100.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by GasMaster View Post

                      Do a search on Ebay for "tapeswitch" and be prepared to be shocked what they get for a section of these things, over 100.
                      Kinda where I was thinking they would be. On a side note, the ones I made for my machine weren't durable and I couldn't really figure out another way to sense pins with that design. Another one of the reasons I scrapped it.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by coasterp View Post

                        Kinda where I was thinking they would be. On a side note, the ones I made for my machine weren't durable and I couldn't really figure out another way to sense pins with that design. Another one of the reasons I scrapped it.
                        I have a few ideas I'm kicking around, I'm planning the finger to work like the AMF finger but, adding more surface area to the pin contact area, possibly with a small metal strip that's hinged somehow and have a tiny micro-switch on the other end or in the middle of the finger with and actuator added for the switch. This will take a bit. I think I'll have to build the scissor table out of thin plywood to start all this before I start having it cut in aluminum.

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                        • #13
                          I ran across the old lathe profile I had made at a friends machine shop 25 plus years ago that followed the profile of my old plastic pins I was using to design the old pinsetter I was building at that time. If you looked close enough, you can see the plastic pin profile was just about 1/4" shorter than the Linds pin......I'm surprised how close it was.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by GasMaster View Post
                            I ran across the old lathe profile I had made at a friends machine shop 25 plus years ago that followed the profile of my old plastic pins I was using to design the old pinsetter I was building at that time. If you looked close enough, you can see the plastic pin profile was just about 1/4" shorter than the Linds pin......I'm surprised how close it was.
                            That's pretty sweet! I'm excited to see how your pinsetter and lane is going to look!

                            -Chip

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