View Full Version : Buffing Brunswick Synthetic Approaches
08-19-2007, 02:19 AM
We have new Brunswick ProLanes and approaches.
How often should these be buffed with isopropyl alcohol (above and beyond occasions when they need specific/spot cleaning)?
The book seems to suggest doing this once per week.
I don't believe our centre is humid and temperature is consistent.
08-19-2007, 07:05 AM
I have had Pro Lane for 3 years now and dont own a buffer. We use 99% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning with clean towles and a clean gutter mop. Over cleaning them will make them sticky and cleaning with anything else is a no no in my center.
Marty - Liberty Lanes
we are on the 3rd yer with them and just bought a buffer. Bfore this year we rented a buffer/stripper to strip the wax in the seete area and buff the approaches once a year.
the cost to rent a buffer is minnimal and only takes about an hour to do the apporaches with a terry towel and ip99 and is well worth the cost. So check with rental buissness in your area for the cost to rent one and buff then once or twice a year you will notice the differnce
08-19-2007, 09:53 PM
Thanks for the responses. Especially because you both have had these for a long time, and in Marty's case in a climate more humid than mine.
So, would you guys think a requirement to buff approaches daily is a bit excessive?
I'm curious to hear frequencies from anyone else.
So far the tally is:
Never - 1
Yearly - 1
Daily - 1 (yes, that's us)
08-20-2007, 03:25 PM
We do not have Brunswick synthetics but do have AMF. We NEVER buff our approaches. Daily we do a spot clean but other than that, it they ain't broke, don't fix 'em.
08-20-2007, 04:28 PM
The Anvillane have a texture to them to take out some of the slickness. This texture attracts dirt like a magnet to metal. I personally buff Monday thru Thursday (league days) doing a extra special run on Monday to catch up on all the Cosmic and B-parties that we have over the weekend. Nothing but water and alcohol are used though.
08-20-2007, 05:33 PM
We have HPL here 5 years old, buff perhaps every second week to lift up any excess dirt. I would do it once a week if my schedule permitted, but not just now.
Use a soft looped cloth pad on the machine. AMF's synthetic pad.
One of the main reasons I do it, is to lift any excess dirt off and also the water we have here seems to leave streaks?? Use dyna clean to clean with and approach spot cleaner in places.
(You can use a spray or two of approach conditioner when buffing, if struggling to get a good slide)
08-20-2007, 10:45 PM
what is your procedure for the buffing? are you using a soft looped pad like alastair? we currenly do not buff at all, just mop once a week and spot clean as needed. however, if the buffing is relativly quick i will give it a try.
08-22-2007, 01:52 PM
A bottle of alcohol on my left hip and a bottle of water on my right hip. A low RPM (1700) buffer and a 21 inch all cotton loop carpet bonnet. I spray about 8 inches in front the foul line with alcohol to get rid of oily foot prints and most ball marks (a small spray of tap water takes care of the rest usually). I'll up about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of alcohol per day (24 lanes). Every once and a while I willl have to use lane cleaner to get rid of some nasty soda spill, followed by water and then alcohol. Always follow the water with alcohol. It helps rid the approach of moisture.
08-22-2007, 11:39 PM
Waco - if you have to follow water with alcohol, why not use only alcohol? Isn't alcohol better at getting it clean than water anyway (hence why bother with water first)? Or do you mean you only sometimes follow water with alcohol, and in which case, is the water creating any problems (I had heard moisture is bad for synthetic approaches, but I'm not sure in what context - i.e. surface spills versus general atmosphere)?
We are using babies cloth nappies (diapers) under a buffing pad, and just the alcohol.
Also, are the approaches different in an AnvilLane installation compared to a ProLane installation such that it would require more/less/never buffing?
That textured feel you speak of is what we have now - and it's nice of course (by design). I'm concerned that it won't be there for very long if we keeping wiping the surface unnecessarily.
Thanks for the respones.
08-22-2007, 11:52 PM
Keep buffing and you will lose some of the texture.
08-23-2007, 06:42 AM
Thanks, King. I appreciate your response - and everyone's responses.
Ruining the texture I presume will cause the stickiness that Marty mentioned above (by creating vaccuum underfoot from a flat surface).
08-25-2007, 01:52 PM
Alcohol will not take off somethings, but all just a touch of water and its gone.
I hope so, because what I have now holds dirt and crude way to easy.
08-26-2007, 08:00 AM
A few little things first:
*Water on a towel is great for those stubborn marks.
*IPA 99 is great for everything else
*Approach Dry Slide is a nightmare if humidity is over 45
*Approach Spot Cleaner leaves a residue, but isn't too bad
*Armor slide is ALWAYS the LAST resort!!!
We have basically the same approaches as you at Altona and Epping.
At Altona we had a humidity issue being so close to the water and because our "package" only included spot cleaner! After a few different things (such as the approach powder & armor slide from Brunswick) we found a solution that worked and had no complaints during the jnr nationals this year or the commonwealth games. We buff entire approach with IPA 99 a couple of times a week and usually do the slide areas with a dribble of armor slide a few days before any big tournament (never during tho!)
At Epping humidity was not an issue at all. We buffed daily with IPA 99 for the first few weeks due to the dust still settling from install. Now we buff once a week (sunday nights after kids have trashed the joint) with IPA. Other than that we spot clean with IPA daily. Any spills are quickly cleaned up (note: red softdrink DOES stain!!). We keep an eye on it and have armor slide ready if approaces play too slow (note: armor slide WILL make them slippery....think ice on a road slippery!!!)
In Sydney we worked with the older anvilane and that was buffed 3 times a week with Approach Spot Cleaner. From what I hear, after 8 years it was still fine.
You need to have a look at the ambient humidity and temperature (I'd suggest buying one of those nifty little digital temp/humidty things), how clean the players area is kept, aircon outlet positioning and what sort of lineage you're getting in order to come up with a preperation that suits. Buffing will erode the texture over time, but it will do so a heck of alot slower than all those bowlers who keep coming in the centre, using up all your lane oil and insist on sliding on the approaches and creating friction!!!
08-26-2007, 09:38 PM
Thanks for your thorough response, OzPom. Great info. Perfect. I'll have to come up and visit you one day too.
08-28-2007, 12:59 AM
Our manager loves Armor slide. He has us use the stuff every day, says easy on knees. I am told what to do and it is funny to see all the bowlers "ice skating". Manager has bad knees and he says sliding makes bowling less painful. We did the whole area. I bowled and I could not get any traction to take off to bowl. I come down hard on my heel to stop. You can get used to slick tho.
08-28-2007, 11:40 AM
mouser: if he wants to slide, strip the lanes and armor slide from the foul line down a couple of feet... watch the manager take off /content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif We had a few of our bowlers who really like to plant the foot when they bowl have a go after armor slideing the slide area... the comment was "WTF! I'm putting my runners on!". They did, and they still slid.
Andrew: You're welcome to pop up anytime except Wednesday... I get my well earned day off that day. The phone gets turned off and I take the dogs out for the day!
i buff my approaches 3 to 4 times a week i buff the slide area usuing ipa 99 and mixed in with dura slide.bowlers never complain about the appraches be sticky and on mon the whole approach gets buffed.i use the carpet pads should be able to by those from amf or in most cases local janitoral supply store should carry them!!!
09-07-2007, 07:59 AM
Another question about these approaches....
When they installed them, they used a gap filler (like silicone, or similar, not quite sure) between the approach sections.
It gets drawn out of the gaps and onto the surface. IPA alcohol doesn't really move it. You have to scrub it hard with a cloth to physically remove it.
Any tips on cleaning this up more easily?
I wouldn't want to experimentally try something (like metho, or other solvent) without knowing for sure that it's okay to use on the synthetic material.
Anyone had this problem?
09-26-2007, 09:04 AM
I was told at a Brunswick seminar that the approach joints shouldn’t have silicone between them. The reason was as you described.
We have used turps for removing excess silicone between joints. I can’t say I’ve ever noticed any long term damage.
At the Sydney centre we’ve been using metho for at least 8-9 years on our Amour Plate (I think that’s its name) synthetic lanes. It works great for removing most scuff marks and oil residue. When it comes to spilt drinks we just us a damp towel and elbow grease. When you do get a soft drink stain you can remove it with a more concentrated mixture of lane cleaner.
Our maintenance procedure has been the same for 17 years….
Dust twice daily
Spot clean twice daily
Buff with a soft towel or loop carpet piece once a week
Mop with heavily diluted lane cleaner once a week
We only ever use Armor Slide when we have senior tournaments. They insist on using their 30yo shoes.
Our other centre that has the textured Brunswick approaches (not Pro) follow the same procedure with no problem.
09-28-2007, 10:12 PM
Can someone describe the difference between the textures of the ProLane approach and the AnvilLane approach?
Ours has a slight texture - i.e. it is not perfectly smooth. I assume that's to mimick the slidey feel of wood. But is AnvilLane ever texturier (is that a word?)?
09-29-2007, 03:19 AM
No problem Andrew.
As far as I can tell they are the same texture...
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