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Kustodian ION cleaning issue

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  • Kustodian ION cleaning issue

    Just an FYI. I'm the B mechanic at the center I work for. Just got put in charge of doing maintenance on the lane machines. One of my pinchasers oiled the whole center like usual for league. He went to empty the recovery tank and it was empty. Obviously he freaked out thinking the lanes weren't cleaned. Back ends are bone dry and 2 300's were thrown that night. Me being curious after league went to see where all the recovery waste went to. Well. Needless to say, it got pushed off the back of the decks. Input please. Replaced the vacuum pump, checked relays, fuses....still doing the same thing. Fortunately this is our back up machine, (Just got a new ION Sport, but I need to adjust rake arm heights on my machines to allow clearance since its taller) but I really need to get it working asap. If I overlooked something easy LET ME KNOW. I'm new to lane machine maintenance so tear me apart! Thanks guys!

  • #2
    The factory fuse is opaque (non glass)

    You need to check it with a meter to see if it is bad

    Mine blew earlier this week

    Also check to see if the light comes on the computer when you press the output test

    Lastly check to see if you get DC voltage at the Vac motor with your meter - if you do the Vac motor is bad

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    • #3
      It depends what version of the ION you have what kind of fuse you have. For instance the center I work for has a model A and it isn't a fuse at all it was a push button circuit breaker. I believe the opaque fuse King is referring to is a ceramic fuse as opposed to the standard glass. Lots of component repair guys love the ceramic fuses and regard them as just "better" but nobody can explain why.

      The trouble shooting steps are pretty simple:
      1.Test output 14 is the vacum motor

      2.Take voltage at the motor plug's outer 2 pins the center is ground. should read 24-28v DC something in that neighborhood.

      3. If that isn't correct go to the left most relay (big cube with green push buttons) and meter across terminals 5 and 8 then activate the F5 button OR the top of the relay you should read the 24-28v DC at the relay base.

      4. If you are not reading voltage at the relay base then its the fuse/circuit breaker. after checking the FUSE AND FUSEHOLDER or CB swap the relay on the off chance it was damaged when the other components blew.
      When you know what to do, everything is easy.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Grit View Post
        Lots of component repair guys love the ceramic fuses and regard them as just "better" but nobody can explain why.
        Ceramic fuses are preferred in some cases because they will create a condition that will prevent arcing when the filament breaks/melts. This is especially true in DC circuits as arcing can occur easier in these circuits versus AC circuits. AC circuits will have the applied voltage across the blown fuse fall to 0 volts often...while DC circuits will not. This is due to the sine wave the AC circuit follows. Since the number of times it reaches 0 is dependent on many different things, I can't quote a specific number that would tell us how often it would occur...but an example would be household current and the time the voltage would reach 0 is 1/120th of a second at maximum. This would extinguish any arc that would occur. (As long as the applied voltage would not jump the "gap" created by the burnt wire when the voltage reaches it s maximum)

        There are many things involved in determining what style/type of fuse would be used in any circuit...but that is why electronic engineers have to go to school...for a very long time. It never ends by the way...they are always learning as the industry changes.

        I hope that helps a little on your question about ceramic fuses.
        TSM & TSM Training Development
        Main Event Entertainment
        480-620-6758 for help or information

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