kickbacks

[Larry]

have any of you installed kickbacks with dry wall screws? seems to be easier on the arm, screwing with drill is alot easier than hammering. anyone with srews experience, do they stay in or break?

[Roscoe]

Re: kickbacks

Larry:
Regular drywall screws tend to break heads off, in gutters as well as kickbacks. Too brittle, no ductility.
Use either stainless or masonery phillips with a deep countersunk hole.
Roscoe

[playball2hard]

Re: kickbacks

Masonery screws work well on the flat gutters, but for the kickback plates I use a air stapler and staples. Did mine about seven years ago and holding strong. Very few bubbles in the plates also, as we all know they will bubble if you do not get them on tight. Best of luck tearing the old ones off that is a job for a LARGE bar and some muscle. Playball2hard

[Roscoe]

Re: kickbacks

Platball2hard:
Masonery screws work well for round gutters also, just keep them small diam. and well recessed. Have seen problems with staples on kickbacks, if not completly countersunk, which is hard for a staple over 3/8, they tend to cut pins.
What kind of a stapler, what size staples and what pressure are you running? Obviously you are not using phenolic, but the softer kickback materials.
Would like to know, could be very helpful to this forum.
Thanking you.
Roscoe

[playball2hard]

Re: kickbacks

Roscoe: Yes the kickbacks that I used were the plastic ones, like I said it has been seven years since I did mine. You are correct that the staples must be narrow but I do not recall the size at this time. Also the air pressure to the staple gun must be high enough to counter sink all of the staples I ran 110 psi to the gun. Sorry I could not be more detailed in what I did but it did work. Also another quick note, that kickback material works well for patching worn spots (not holes) in kickbacks that are abused past the kickback plates.

If you need more detail let me know and I will see if I can find the size of the staples that I used.

Playball2hard