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Frameworx Ball Return and Baldour Industrial Motor

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  • Frameworx Ball Return and Baldour Industrial Motor

    Hi,
    I have Frameworx ball returns with Baldour industrial motors. On one lane the motor no longer starts when the lane opens and will often switch direction during play.
    Has anyone any experience on repair or which motor would be a suitable replacement?
    Any advice would be great.
    Thanks

  • #2
    If there is a capacitor, you can test it with a meter or replace it. You can also check the contacts on the centrifugal switch and maybe file them smooth.

    If you have to replace the motor, make sure you don't buy one with an automatic thermal overload. Someone might forget to turn off the power when clearing a jam.

    Comment


    • #3
      What have you done so far to determine this was the motor? Also what machine are you attaching these to? Some machines send a single signal to the control box for a pair of lanes while other lanes each send their own signal to turn the lift on so it's important to know the machine it is attached to. Is this a problem when either machine on a pair turns on or just when one machine in the pair turns on?

      It's curious that you said the motor randomly reverses directions. I have never seen this but I have heard of it before. Theoretically, this should never be able to happen but apparently in reality it does. But since you are having starting issues and direction issues, I would start with the motor capacitor. Swap it out with a known good one and see what happens.

      If it wasn't for the reversing issue, there are several things that could prevent a motor from starting and a little troubleshooting would be in order. For example, when a machine turns on it sends a signal to the ball lift. There are one or two relays in the control box that then turns on the motor. So the question then becomes is the signal from the machine bad or is the power to the motor bad. Also, some frameworx lifts have a safety switch on the hood to shut the motor down when the hood is lifted. If the switch isn't adjusted properly or if someone doesn't get the hood seated properly then this can prevent the motor from running. We can help you troubleshoot these issues but first I would try swapping the capacitor and see what happens.

      Also, don't file the contacts of relays. Yes I too have done this in a pinch but the contacts have a coating on them that helps with arcing. Once you file them, you will remove the coating and significantly reduce the life of the relay. If you have badly pitted contacts that are sticking then you can file them in a pinch to get you through but you should replace the relay at the earliest convenience. But if you file a good set of contacts just because, then you have damaged a good set of contacts.

      Let us know where your at on this. If you need further help then we can guide you further.

      Comment


      • #4
        Excellent point on Not Filing the contacts. Also, an internal thermal overload is the best protection. It not only senses over current but also senses excessive internal heat which is a huge enemy of motors. It will not allow the motor to restart until it sufficiently cools. Not favorable when you want the lane back in play but it beats replacing burned out motors.

        In addition, never work on anything, mechanical or electrical until you have verified that the main power source has been de-energized. In the power plant we would verify that the source was energized, then de-energize it and verify, then take the volt meter to another energized source and verify the meter was still operating correctly as a double check. If you work in a building where multiple people have access to the load center or main panel, it would be good to develop "Tag Out" procedures and educate everyone on them. You can get some ideas on line if you just google Tag Out Procedures or LOTO. I have attached one as an example. In a pinch when a place is closed or has very limited employee access to the load center, we will "Red Tape" the breaker and place the attached sign on the panel.

        Breaker Warning Note.pdf Tag Out Procedure.pdf

        ALL Files Scanned with MALWAREBYTES PREMIUM Version 4.1.0.56 and AVAST INTERNET SECURITY Version 20.2.5130.0
        Everything has to be Somewhere !!

        Comment


        • #5
          Forgot to comment on the motor reversing thing. A single phase motor can run in either direction, but.... we accomplish this by "Reversing the Starter Winding Wiring". This info is usually found on the inside or outside of the motor nameplate. CW or CCW. On a 3 Phase motor, you just reverse 2 of the phases. How its doing this on its own is interesting. I think ExM is on the right track.

          Motor Plate Data 2 C.jpg Motor Plate Data 1 C.jpg
          Everything has to be Somewhere !!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Shazhad View Post
            Hi,
            I have Frameworx ball returns with Baldour industrial motors. On one lane the motor no longer starts when the lane opens and will often switch direction during play.
            Has anyone any experience on repair or which motor would be a suitable replacement?
            Any advice would be great.
            Thanks
            Have had this many times on PL motors and booster motors. Every time it was the centrifugal switch failing to close the start circuit when stopped. Without the start circuit being closed via the centrifugal switch at power on, the motor will either run in either direction or overload eventually if it doesn't.
            Factory & Converted A-2 (US, Ger, Jap)
            Comscore ECT, Matrix & DuoHD
            Walker B, Sanction Standard, Original K, Flex Walker & Ikon
            Kegel C.A.T.S

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mickeygm View Post
              Excellent point on Not Filing the contacts. Also, an internal thermal overload is the best protection. It not only senses over current but also senses excessive internal heat which is a huge enemy of motors. It will not allow the motor to restart until it sufficiently cools. Not favorable when you want the lane back in play but it beats replacing burned out motors.

              That is a good thing if it's a manual thermal overload. Let it cool and push the button. An automatic thermal overload has no button. That isn't a problem for a properly trained person, but you don't know the level of training of everyone who might reach in there during the life of the motor.


              Comment


              • #8
                Hi,

                Sorry for not replying sooner. Thanks so much for all of the help and advice.
                Unfortunately my technical knowledge is limited, so I was only able to check and trouble shoot a small number of suggestions.
                I checked the control box but found no issues, after that the owner decided to replace the motor and there has been no further issue.
                Thanks again for the help, and apologies I can't tell you what the actual source of the problem was!

                Comment

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