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I have Frameworx Ball Lifts, and I'm very curious as to how to go about replacing parts on it. The biggest one is I actually have a couple frame assemblies (officially called Ball Lift Weldment Assembly 53-520675-000 in the manual) that have broken over the years. With a little time and patience, I'm sure these could be taken out and welded. But I have one that has literally broken in half. I'm surprised balls even manage to make it out onto the rack.
However, the part is N/A in the book, and with R/O number anywhere to be seen. I've searched here on Bowl Tech, on my distributor's site, etc. to no avail. I mean surely SOME sort of replacement option exists, otherwise my next question would be how are any new bowling centers being built?
I did notice there was a more current version of the pdf for that parts section available, and to my horror, I found that the only difference in the Frameworx Lift section was that even MORE parts now say N/A.
For reference, a terribly-lit picture of broken parts, and the diagram from the manual with all broken parts circled. As you can see this one might just be beyond repair. If anyone can help, that'd be amazing.
The original brunswick lift, which everyone copied, had 3 bolts on each side attaching the spreader braces, as where circled. the new lift, made in Holland, is welded where normally here are bolts. Yours look like the welding weakened the metal side frames. As far as fixing them, one could drill holes and add a 4 bolt 1/4" thick strap on the sides spanning the breaks, if I understand the issue correctly, and if the hood has clearance, you could stiffen it with 1/2 x 1" angle iron, and drilled with 2 bolts on each side of the split.
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This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.
So after I posted, I went and dug in further, and every single cross-bar is actually broken. Which makes sense since every time a ball would go through, the entire assembly would essentially fall apart.
To eke by for the time being, I actually had pretty much the same idea, which resulted in this: (for some reason bowltech won't let me inline it)
One of the big issues, is the top one snapped completely off, meaning, I don't really have enough metal to do this at the top, and I can't feasibly do it with the interior one unless I take the entire unit out. So the top actually has a ball lift motor spring running across it.
But it will get by until I figure something more permanent out, which leads me right back to my original point.
Why are so many parts for the power lifts just not available?
Seems with all the Brunswick overengineering of things over the years, they really flubbed by approving the cost cutting in this design. You have to replace the entire frame.
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This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.
What's wrong with 53-520675-000 that you posted above?
Did you not notice the break in the frame on the first picture? (above the bottom pulley) Plus the frame is listed as N.A. under that part number. That would scare me if I had frameworks lifts here (I had them in florida) plus I dont miss all the cheesey plastic hubs and pulleys in those things.
I have Brunswick investigating. So far, apparently the number I posted above is for the ENTIRE built assembly. They're looking into what the individual frame part number is and why it's not listed.
When I know more, I'll post it here for any possible future reference.
Fix it the right way? You can't do that unless it worked right to begin with.
Marty, I was referring to the part number not the picture.
mhdavis has answered my question and explained that it is for the full assy. I've seen FX ball lifts in bad shape but never like that, i'll be keeping an eye on ours in the future!
Honestly, one thing I would look at is what wheels you are using.
A couple years ago, I started slowly switching to the urethane foam wheels on bottom and top, and I think I might be regretting it. Theoretically, they're the same size as the tire and v-shaped wheels, but they offer almost NO flex.
I haven't adequately tested this theory and it's likely one I don't want to, but I think I may start switching at least the uppers back to the tires.
Fix it the right way? You can't do that unless it worked right to begin with.
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