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  • Problem with profile ball return

    We have been open for 7 years and have had 11 of the circuit boards burn up as per pics. Any ideas? 110V.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I think the relay they use is the issue with the way it mounts to the board. I have had 3 burn up in the past 6 months and they looked exactly the same
    AS REQUESTED....The all new and VERY improved "super cool" Pin_Head with super hip shades.....

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    • #3
      me too I have one look like same, i give mine to an electronic technician and now it's good

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      • #4
        IMO, Time to change them to a simple Brunswick style 2 pole relay. Since you have Brunswick machines, you need a relay for each lane. I'd use a relay base and plug-in relay. Steve (JBEES) has the grainger numbers for the plug-ins. He also made a more sophisticated drawing that I did and published it in the technical section - or search for relay control box in the top left search box to fond a drawing.
        I've repaired the AMF boards, and replaced the triac for the motor, but they seem to be a weak link in the ball return setup.
        .
        .
        .
        This post is not an unpaid promotion of my business.

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        • #5
          I did just that, also fused the motor and wired in the safety. Was just wondering if anyone else had had a fix.

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          • #6
            I gave up on these boards long ago. As they crap out, I just build up a Brunswick style box (like Ted suggested) using a small electrical NEMA pull box available at Home Depot and plug in relays/bases. Add in a nice mini-breaker and voila! no more issues.

            I hate those boards...way to over-engineered to just turn power lifts on/off.
            "Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"

            --Kat

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            • #7
              The boards/control box does have some nice features but are not necessary for normal operation.

              I have 5 lifts with these boards and so far they are fine.

              But I have to agree with Kat, the simple relay control box setup is better, less to go wrong and easy to service. All you need is for it to turn on the lift and blower motors when the machines are on and it does that just fine. This setup has been doing just that for the last 50 years---- because it works so swell.

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              • #8
                If your stuck with them because of cost or other equipment that cannot run without it just remount it away from the backside of the ball return frame. I had eight of these boards go bad and I replaced them with the zot version. After moving them off the ball return I have not had an issue since.
                I'll see you in the streets.

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                • #9
                  I recommend placing them on the floor in front of the power lift, under the approach access door. When I had my Options lifts (around 2000) they were shipped with the control box mounted on the side frame. Nice idea in theory, but obviously not well thought out or time tested, as within 3-6 months of install, we had boars failures once a month. The best place is still on the floor away from all vibration.

                  And, no, I don't need all the fancy crap functions the boards can do. And I certainly don't need the added expense.
                  "Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"

                  --Kat

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Kat View Post
                    And, no, I don't need all the fancy crap functions the boards can do. And I certainly don't need the added expense.
                    Agree with ya there brother. In fact, I never use those functions, can't anyway as the flimsy reset buttons don't work.

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                    • #11
                      I install a relay to take the amperage of the motor, the pcb only used as input voltage for relay and signals.
                      PCB's have to be in good shape to work with this mod, but if they are you can use this to eliminate future heat problem.

                      photo(61).jpg
                      Peanut

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                      • #12
                        Very good idea Masternut. I did exactly that on our 82/70 chassis for the BE motor to stop the excess amp draw from ruining the C1s. Again great idea, but I just try to eliminate the overly complex (and expensive) box. As long as my cube relays fire up the power lift motor and hand dryer, I'm good.
                        "Where are we going, and why are we in a hand basket?"

                        --Kat

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                        • #13
                          Do you wire up the safety switch into the new box?

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                          • #14
                            Yes.

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                            • #15
                              Does anyone have a diagram of the control board wiring for the profile ball return? J1 terminals 1 & 2 does it go to the 90xli pinspotter? Someone suggested shorting across these two terminals to activate profile return.
                              Last edited by 8270tom; 05-21-2014, 11:57 AM.

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