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  • Distributor question

    Hey all

    I'm a fairly new tech and came across this (in pic) recently, and was confused as to why another tech may have done this, and whether this is a regular practice. In particular I mean the stretching of the linesr motion spring.

    Cheers
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Probably to get the telescoping arm to move forward as soon as possible to make up for bent carriage tubes or bad rollers.(Or just basic bad adjustments. etc etc)

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by CHCHtech View Post
      Hey all

      I'm a fairly new tech and came across this (in pic) recently, and was confused as to why another tech may have done this, and whether this is a regular practice. In particular I mean the stretching of the linesr motion spring.

      Cheers
      That's a common "quick fix" for people who either don't understand how the distributor actually works, or didn't want to take the time to really dig into the problem. I've got a few of them like that at my center and it's exactly for that reason.

      Odds are that spring is now worthless because some of the coils have been permanently stretched (you can see it to the right of where someone put a wire tie on a few coils in front of the nylon index cam). The spring is actually weaker now than it was before being stretched like that.

      There are a lot of reasons why the carriage is sluggish extending from the #9 bin to the #1 bin (and #8 to #5)..

      -- The tubes on the carriage get wear spots in several places on them. Either tube can stick on the guide rollers at these points. Only fix is to replace the tubes or switch them to run on the opposite side.
      -- The tubes and/or guide rollers are covered in crud. This prevents the carriage from moving freely on the guide rollers. They should always be kept clean regularly. I use a rag with a light amount of WD40 on it.
      -- The bearings in the guide rollers are dry and/or gummed up and won't rotate freely. They can be removed and the bearing inside cleaned out and re-lubed.
      -- The four grooved guide rollers are adjusted too tightly on the tube.
      -- Something on the carriage is rubbing against the rear section of the distributor. Usually the guide rails on top will rub against the flat guides of the rear section. Or sometimes they rub on the bottom pan of the rear section. This happens when any of these pieces get bent (and they easy to bend.) Just bend them back.
      -- One or more of the ball bearings in the nylon belt rollers or, in the shaft the big C-link are not moving freely. They can be removed, flushed out and re-lubricated.


      All of these things affect how freely the carriage retracts or extends. Even stretching the linear spring to increase tension can create another issue when the distributor moves from 4 to 7, or from 6 to 10. At those points the distributor clutch has to do the most work not only moving the distributor over, but also pulling the carriage back. The excess resistance can cause the distributor to stall.



      .



      -- Larry

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi mate,
        Following on from the great reply from TheLegend as a newbie you really want to try to steer clear of these sorts of practices. A distributor that is adjusted correctly and has good condition parts should never need the spring to be hooked over like that. Quite possibly in this instance one or more of the carriage rollers were too tight causing the carriage to return too slowly hence why they figured more spring tension will get it back sooner, when in fact good tubes, and rollers correctly adjusted would have done the same trick. There is also the possibility that there was insufficient tension on the distributor belt as in the belt was cut too long. The tension of the belt helps drive the carriage back home to the 1 pin spot.
        AS REQUESTED....The all new and VERY improved "super cool" Pin_Head with super hip shades.....

        Comment


        • #5
          Yes it is common practice. And the reason for that practice is because of the items mentioned above. But this tech would just as soon stretch the linear spring a tad bit then to change (or swap sides) every few years, an otherwise clean, straight, and true carriage tube just because of a few divots that cause stalling. I have not encountered a problem with a properly assembled clutch needing extra tension because of the added linear spring tension.

          But I don't wrap the spring around the carriage support like the one in your photo. I drill a hole in the front carriage support and hook the front of the spring through the hole. It keeps the spring straight and doesn't distort it. I have, though, had a few springs break because of the added tension they weren't designed to take. In eleven years at my current center I've only had about five or six break in that time. In my humble opinion, that's a lot of time and money saved on replacing all the carriage tubes.

          I like my machines to run as they were designed to run and without any modifications. But this is a mod I don't mind using. It's quick and easy and saves me time and money without seriously distorting the original design.

          IMG_6896.JPG
          There! Try to NOT work now!

          Comment

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