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Table Tie Link Bushings

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  • Table Tie Link Bushings

    People have used so many different names for this part that's it's actually tricky to search for so I figured I would just ask....

    I have many tables that have been neglected over the years and most need all the bushings and pins replaced in the tie bar (aka z bar, lightning rod)...

    The first one I serviced I cranked the table down to the deck while making sure the spot rod didn't hook to the latch...it wasn't too terrible in this position. started in the front near the head pin and worked my way to the back. The 7-8-9-10 row was by far the most difficult..was very hard to get it lined up to get the pin through.
    What's the easiest way to service this part? How do YOU do it?

  • #2
    We call the tie link the lightning rod here. The easiest way is to disconnect the spot rod first then drop the table. That way you aren't fighting the spot rod's tension on the tie link and cups when you're trying to get everything lined up. If you're doing a bunch of them, that's the way to go and results in the least amount of swearing and sweating.

    After a year of being closed I replaced all 4 bushings on a lane last week. I think all the thrust washers were cracked or deformed and two of the bushings had pieces missing. I forgot about disconnecting the spot rod until I had spent way too much time fighting with the 4-5-6 and 7-10 and couldn't get the 2-3 lined up.

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    • #3
      Sounds good! When disconnecting spot rod, do I have to remove the big green spring first or can I leave that alone ?

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      • #4
        You don't have to remove the spring, but the spot lever will be moved out of reach of the spot latch after disconnecting the spot rod. So hold down the cam link lever next to the table drive so it will unlatch and lower the table to spotting position.

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        • #5
          I've always put the table in spotting position and work on each shaft one by one working from the back of the machine to the front. Making sure I unplug the table motor first, of course.

          It's the way I learned to do it and I'm used to it. Biggest PITA is getting a shoulder pin to line up again because of a tweaked shaft arm or he tie link itself is slightly bent.

          -- Larry

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          • #6
            Originally posted by TheLegend View Post
            I've always put the table in spotting position and work on each shaft one by one working from the back of the machine to the front. Making sure I unplug the table motor first, of course.

            It's the way I learned to do it and I'm used to it. Biggest PITA is getting a shoulder pin to line up again because of a tweaked shaft arm or he tie link itself is slightly bent.
            Do you leave the spot rod attached?

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            • #7
              If you do it the way TheLegend said, yes leave spotting rod attached. Be careful taking the shoulder bolts out, your spotting cups are spring loaded they will flip horizontal.

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              • #8
                The spot rod stays connected.

                The two shafts you have to worry about are the #3 and #4 shafts which have the torsion springs on them. #2 shaft has none so it isn't a problem.

                So if you're replacing all the flanged bushings in the tie link start at the back (#4 shaft) and work your way forward removing the pins. Then reverse the procedure when putting it all back together.

                If it's only the front bearing that's bad you can just remove that pin but make sure you hold the cups in their rotated position while removing the pin. That way they don't snap back on you.

                -- Larry

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