This 1 has me scratching my head :s

[strikeout]

ok I have A problem. i have a lane that i just cant get the table adjustment right. do everything by the book and cups knock tops of pins resulting in several pin resets, raise the clevis to give clearance then get over at spot trouble, have gone over adjustment 10 times and im getting nowhere. any ideas??

[Never_to_old]

Have you checked the 3 springs on the table to make sure the cups go right back to horizontal position, had this problem on a few machines checked and reset the tension and fixed the problem.

[strikeout]

all three springs are flush with spotting cup top nut maybe loosening off the springs and tightening them up again could work?

[rivmike]

Sorrry reread what you posted not what I thoughtit said. I have one that I never figured out. Like you say , the cup bottoms are too high and rub the shuttle. If you give it enough clearence then the table will bounce and wobble the pins. I had to pick something in between and it runs great but looks like sh$t.

[8270king]

1. With the pins in the cups - run the table to the spot position - but stop and or crank the table to where there is 1/8 gap between the bottom of the pins and the spots
2. Observe the gap between deck and pin bottom - I bet your table is out of level
3. Now adjust the table with the horizontal rods
4. Adjust table height again to spec
5. Adjust the table to spot with the Stahl's method - spot gauge under head pin - link below
6. Run table to zero and adjust respot pawl gap

http://www.bowltech.com/forums/showthread.php?44339-Stahl-s-5-16-method-to-adjust-table-spotting

[Toby]

I tried the Stahl's method and find it's much better than the method in the book. If the cups still touch the pins on respot, you can adjust the stop screw until they just barely clear, and then run it through second ball cycle and see if it'll still spot. If not, you can fool with the spot rod a little bit to compensate.

Toby

[rivmike]

ok I have A problem. i have a lane that i just cant get the table adjustment right. do everything by the book and cups knock tops of pins resulting in several pin resets, raise the clevis to give clearance then get over at spot trouble, have gone over adjustment 10 times and im getting nowhere. any ideas??

Is the table flagged in the center of the 7/10 spot? Move it back if possible and then you can move the cup forward creating your clearence. If that does'nt work check the x-yoke it may be bent causing the pin hit.

[strikeout]

ive noticed that one side of my table is higher than the other.. is there a quick way to level them out without fiddling with machine heights? I will keep playing around following all advice given

[rivmike]

ive noticed that one side of my table is higher than the other.. is there a quick way to level them out without fiddling with machine heights? I will keep playing around following all advice given

Something made it change, jam or something wore. The horiz. rods from the main uprights will raise/lower the back, clevis in the front.

[strikeout]

my 7 pin side is currently lower than the 10 pin side i can have a go at playing with tilt rods to even it out

[strikeout]

on the stahl's method do u do your bubble adjustment with gauge under head pin or 6'' off the pindeck as told to in the book?

[Tablejam]

With any table adjustments its very important to make sure all of the hardware is good first, the machine is at least close to where it should be front to back and height wise, and that the table is level side to side and front to back. Actually I like the front a hair lower than the back. If all this checks out then the adjustments will be easy. I've used the book and alternate method and they both work, haven't tried the Stahl's method yet but im sure it works fine. Even if everything is good you still may have to fiddle with the adjustments a little to get it smooth. For cup clearance during respotting I like to put the table at BDC at respot height then bounce it a little by hand, if a cup touches a pin then I move the yoke back a quarter turn at a time and repeat until there is no touching, then recheck the spotting. Depending on what type of table supports you have if the table is not level side to side (again with no hardware issues), if you have the old style aluminum ones you can loosen the large jam nuts on the high side and adjust until level. If they are the black one piece ones you will have to add pacman washers or shims between the table support and the table to level it. If it was level and now all of a sudden its not then something has moved or failed, blown bearings in the table support or a bad pillow block on the torque tube will cause that.

[strikeout]

very good info tablejam .. im starting to have a win on this (must be a female machine) im now getting minor cup knocking on 2 4 5 pins but its spotting a treat.. so chuck shims under lower side to raise yes?

[Tablejam]

Thinking about it further if you have the one piece table supports you have to bring down the high side, there is no way to raise the low side. If you have the aluminum supports you can do either or both but I would flag the table with these to keep it in proper position as if you raise the table with the supports it will have to go lower when it is finally adjusted and runs which means it will also move forward some, if you lower the table with these supports it wont be going as low and may move back some....which table supports do you have?

[keeth]

If it now only hitting the 2 4 5 the yoke could be a little warped from a tablejam.