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  • westinghouse motors

    First, do I need the aux board the the motor. second, when i test across the main and start winding i think I should get 4.1(start), 1.6(main). I only have 10x on my meter and it goes all the way to 0. Does that mean the winding is bad. I have another motor that reads 1.1 ohm on start and main. dont know which is which since i have 2 red wires and 2 black wires. and how can u tell if its 50hz or 60hz when there is no label. thanks
    Last edited by dothan; 02-19-2012, 05:50 PM.
    amf 82-70
    B2000
    quibca

  • #2
    I wouldnt take the aux board out. it gives the switch 2x the contact area for the points which will lead to longer life (they all burn up eventually). As for your windings, I find that anywhere from 4-6 ohms on your start winding is normal and 1-3 ohms on the run windings. If your winding has continuity but reads 0 my guess would be that there is a short and the motor will not work like it should. Someone has worked on the motor before because the motors should have red, black, yellow and blue wires (the blue wire can look green because of age). Normally your start winding will be the red and black wires while your run winding is the blue and yellow wires.

    As for winding identification, you can always look at the thickness of the winding wire that your wires are attached to. Start windings are the thinner wire while the thicker wire is the run winding
    Giving bowlers less to complain about, one lane at a time

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    • #3
      I have a couple of those stators that have two sets of black and red/no blue and yellow. You just have to measure them out for resistance and mark them if you wish.
      70's MP/PBL/LBS,Q-Score
      Prolane Walker sport

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      • #4
        Aren't the start windings the thicker wire?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Tablejam View Post
          Aren't the start windings the thicker wire?
          nope. Smaller wire = more times you can wind the wire around the stator = stronger magnetic field to start the motor. The thicker wire is for the run windings because they are energized for a longer period of time and they dont need to have as strong as a magnetic field to keep the motor going once the start windings got it up to speed. And since the run windings are energized longer, they have to deal with more of a constant flow of electricity which creates more heat, which would burn up a smaller gauge wire
          Giving bowlers less to complain about, one lane at a time

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          • #6
            I see, interesting.

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            • #7
              well got one working. had wire on terminal 6 between two nuts. What would thinner wire and thicker wire have to do with 50hz/60hz. The national is easy to determine, but the westinghouse isnt if its not label. the table and sweep runs fast. By looking at the parts book it looks like all I need to do is change some gears from 14 rpm to 12 rpm.
              amf 82-70
              B2000
              quibca

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              • #8
                I only have 1 50hz westy combo stator and it has extra wires inside for more windings so chances are that your stator is not 50 hz.But you are correct about changing the speed of the gearbox,it would just be the worm and wheel. BUT the worm shaft is pressed to the rotor so it will need to be pulled and pressed YUK
                70's MP/PBL/LBS,Q-Score
                Prolane Walker sport

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                • #9
                  next is i have very bad coasting problem. Disassemble gearbox. It had 3 shims (2 thin and 1 thick), left the 2 thin ones in. much better, instead of coasting half way to the 4-5-6 line now it only drifts about 6 inches. should i remove another shim. I am afriad of making it to tight. Or install the relay from stahls in the wireway to help it brake. I have only dealt with nationals.
                  amf 82-70
                  B2000
                  quibca

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                  • #10
                    I had my first real loose one sat. I took the stator off and spun the rotor by hand, after o it went to gaurd with one spin. The second spin it went past the 4,5,6, spots. I had two flat shims and spring washer on top of the rotor bearing, so I must have had issues in the past. Now it got worse. Tonight I took the side plate off and it had a thick shim, took it out and it feels real good. I'll mark it and put it on a table next.

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                    • #11
                      I replaced 5 sets of worm gears and brass gears in some 14.5s to slow them down. They end up being great. You can always run the fast motors on sweeps if you do not have time to rebuild or the ability to rebuild at the time. At least they will not cause interlocks that way. They do run pretty fast though.

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                      • #12
                        Try regreasing the top bearing and the middle bearing on the input shaft (that middle one that is a pain in the ass to get to just below the armature). The grease controls the spin of the rotor. We have all spun a clean, dry bearing. They spin forever. Make sure its full of fresh grease (not oil) and your coasting problem should go away
                        Giving bowlers less to complain about, one lane at a time

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                        • #13
                          that is the issue i have on lane one. inerlocking cause by loose or fast sweep
                          amf 82-70
                          B2000
                          quibca

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                          • #14
                            both bearing on input shaft is good. I do have resisnance when turning armature.
                            amf 82-70
                            B2000
                            quibca

                            Comment

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