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  • Fingers not opening

    having an issue with the fingers closing fine on respot cycle but having difficulty unlocking to release the pins when the table goes to return them to the deck.

    Already set the pawl gap at 1/8th inch
    set the shifter link clearance at spot height to a hair of clearance on the cam follower (cam follower is good and rolling smooth)
    set the linkages to make sure all fingers are opening fully when operated by hand
    do not see any bent pivot pins
    do not have any dragging roll pins (because I removed them)


    another note: I got a report from another mech that the fingers were closing partially on the first run through of the table not locking. On the 2nd run through were closing further and locking.
    When you know what to do, everything is easy.

  • #2
    Take carb link off, one at a time and cycle. Last week don't remember who but the 5 cell was funky. (locking up)

    Comment


    • #3
      Do the cells open up ok when you run the table up and down with NO pins in it?
      AS REQUESTED....The all new and VERY improved "super cool" Pin_Head with super hip shades.....

      Comment


      • #4
        I already popped the linkages off for the cells where the neoprene washers were mushy and any cell with bent steel washer ontop. Already checked each pin individually to see if it was picking up too high (IE:tight cell) all right around the top red line where they should be. Of the 10, 3 cells are "smooth" with plastic washers and felt good on the rails so I did not pop those linkages off. reckon I will have to start at the 7 only and slowly add em back in to see where it is.

        Originally posted by Pin_Head View Post
        Do the cells open up ok when you run the table up and down with NO pins in it?
        No because: the issue as I saw it was trouble opening with no pins at all.

        Yes because: with pins it seems to still not open smoothly. But it was releasing them say 6/10 times. and during the spot cycle the fingers would open as the table moved down, so it wasn't affecting operation as I said 6/10 times.
        When you know what to do, everything is easy.

        Comment


        • #5
          One bad cell will screw up the whole works.

          With all cells closed, check the finger gap for each cell.
          There's a fine line between closing and locking shut.

          Like rivmike said, sometimes you need to start from scratch. Unhook them all and start over.

          GoodLuck,
          PinCup


          Looks like we were posting at the same time.


          Still sounds like one cell is locking shut.
          We leave our greatest mark on this earth with the quality of our craftsmanship.

          Comment


          • #6
            Grity, have you checked your 2 extension springs (070-001-707) on the front? I had a busted one a few weeks ago and the machine would respot properly to save its life....
            AS REQUESTED....The all new and VERY improved "super cool" Pin_Head with super hip shades.....

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            • #7
              Take a peek out front and check the "green springs" one may have snapped
              Pin head aussie time delay had us typing together but you got up first/Hey I like your idea LOL
              70's MP/PBL/LBS,Q-Score
              Prolane Walker sport

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              • #8
                Originally posted by PinCup View Post
                One bad cell will screw up the whole works.

                With all cells closed, check the finger gap for each cell.
                There's a fine line between closing and locking shut.
                I agree. When the cells fully close, the studs in the cell yokes should not bottom out in the cell fingers, there should be a gap- say 1/4" max., if these bottom out it can actually, really, lock the cells closed. By running the cells by hand at the shifter cam you would feel this locking- most of the time. The two springs at the front should be checked, etc, but it seems to me there is still something binding on the table. If any of the cell pivot studs get bent down, the yokes can get caught or drag on the pivot pins for the fingers and usually this creates a problem when they try to close to lock, but it can also do the same and cause a problem when trying to open. Whenever I "do a table" and I get to the cells, the first thing I do is slightly bend all of these pins down to check for clearance. You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes when none of the cell yokes are dragging on those pins. It could also be one of the wireways is getting caught on something, or one of the wireway levers has a bent pivot pin, etc., etc.,

                Watching the machine run and this happening, when the table goes down to respot the pins (put them back on the deck and open the cells), what is the finger link doing? Do you see it try to push on the upper part of the shifter cam or does it push on the lower part, or even in the middle?

                Comment


                • #9
                  In these situations I have 10 spare cells from my project yrs. ago when I rebuilt all the cells one lane per week. It allows you eliminate alot of moving parts in 20 min. Like when you change the chasis, The machine runs now and you can find the problem later.

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                  • #10
                    Just a slight bend in any of the pivot pins (not the cell pivots) will do this to you too. Might pay attention to the pivot pin link on the left hand side of the machine. A bend there can cause trouble.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Failing any of the above not woking, table at home positon, get yourself lying on the pin deck, and push upwards on the front of the table, if it has significant movement, probably from loose rod ends or table leg bushings, you may want to start there, if you look at the shifter cam, the rod will move closer/away from it when you push up on the table, i've seen this before in a center i was helping out, you could set the fingers to either open fully but not pick up pins, or pick up pins and not open fully, turned out to be a cracked table leg, the force of the 2 green springs was lifting the table up when it went down to pick up the pins, throwing the shifter settings out.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by MarkyB View Post
                        Failing any of the above not woking, table at home positon, get yourself lying on the pin deck, and push upwards on the front of the table, if it has significant movement, probably from loose rod ends or table leg bushings, you may want to start there, if you look at the shifter cam, the rod will move closer/away from it when you push up on the table, i've seen this before in a center i was helping out, you could set the fingers to either open fully but not pick up pins, or pick up pins and not open fully, turned out to be a cracked table leg, the force of the 2 green springs was lifting the table up when it went down to pick up the pins, throwing the shifter settings out.
                        Oh yes, this for sure will give you issues, especially if it's on the 7 side. Instead of using all the spring energy to drive the shifter cam closed/open, some of that energy is lost to lifting the front of the table. I had one do that to me before and it was the levelling rod end on the 7 side, the bolt was very loose in the table support.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          turns out it was a high profile nylock nut stuck to the aluminum wireway rail at the 6. changed it out and noticed the master carb is too long not opening all the fingers now, gonna play with some more in the morning.

                          batting 1000 this week.
                          When you know what to do, everything is easy.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Grit View Post
                            turns out it was a high profile nylock nut stuck to the aluminum wireway rail at the 6. changed it out and noticed the master carb is too long not opening all the fingers now, gonna play with some more in the morning.

                            batting 1000 this week.
                            I went through all of my main carb links and put a nut in place of the spring steel clip.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              also check the stud on the spring hanger plate it has a small shoulder inside the hanger they wear flat on one side allowing the springs to loosen up just a tad
                              you can push on the cam folower with your hand just the small amount of presure can make the diffrence between opening and closing the respot cells
                              to get away from this situation you can rotate the stud 1/8 turn every month and will help the shoulder on the stud last longer

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