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Bin Switch Capacitor
what is the purpose of the Capacitor across TS 32 and TS 34 inside the wire way of a AMF 82-70 ? Found this while tracking down wire location for the bin switch. I have a machine won't shuttle pins after a strike cycle. happens 3-4 times a night now. use to be 1 a night...... maybe 1time a week. I've changed Chassis (gold SS w/omega tek) and the switch, and ran new wire to the terminal strip. I can't find a part number for the cap. not sure if this could cause a problem or not. ? Thanks for the any help.Tags: None
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What ball light is on? I would say you have a bad table cam switch that is double clicking intermit. If you have 20 pins on top, sweep down , and 1st/2nd ball stepper raises the sweep and a cycle then sets pins. I think that is the ta2.
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It is in 1st ball, I bowled on this pair last thurs and was up after a strike, while waiting for the rack to spot pins I heard the 9pin drop into the bin and actuate the bin switch but nothing happened, I had to call the desk. Sweep is at guard, fingers closed and 20 pins up top.
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Originally posted by 10pindown View PostIt is in 1st ball, I bowled on this pair last thurs and was up after a strike, while waiting for the rack to spot pins I heard the 9pin drop into the bin and actuate the bin switch but nothing happened, I had to call the desk. Sweep is at guard, fingers closed and 20 pins up top.
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I believe that's known as "STRIKELOCK", machine acts like it is waiting for the nine only on a strike. TA2 double clicks as the cam lever pushes the switch in due to a weak spring, bad switch, etc.
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Small capacitors are typically used to 'smooth' a switch closure to clean up the signal - electronically speaking in this case. I haven't seen this setup anywhere so far. But if it's across a switch, it's usually to eliminate 'noise' on a signal.
Switches in general tend to be a noisy source for a signal.I've had enough of hope & chains.
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the capacitor is there to act as a 'hold on circuit'. with the 5 card chassis's the table would stop immediately after starting on a spot cycle as the card effectively forgot it had a nine pin. adding the cap kept the 9 pin signal alive for just long enough to allow the ta1 to keep the table running....... easy.
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The capacitors were added to the MP chassis circuit to help keep the contacts of the bin switch clean. The SS chassis was putting out enough voltage so this wasn't an issue, but when the MP chassis was released, the bin switch contacts proved problematic. The capacitor eliminated this issue.
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Originally posted by BillyT4QAMF View PostThe capacitors were added to the MP chassis circuit to help keep the contacts of the bin switch clean. The SS chassis was putting out enough voltage so this wasn't an issue, but when the MP chassis was released, the bin switch contacts proved problematic. The capacitor eliminated this issue.
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jim8230 - are you sure? when we had 5 card chassis the cap was already fitted, and an occasional fault was that the table would set off on a spot cycle and immediately stop. it was quite messy cos the pins shuttled into the cups but the table stopped and the sweep remained at 2nd guard. to rectify the fault you touched the bin switch and the table would continue down with the pins in the cups, but the solenoid had dropped out and now cant operate the hook or latch so the table only goes to respot height. On the 'one card' the lamp circuit for the BS was held on by the cap. In this case a diode across the spot relay wouldn't have any effect as the table wasn't moving. If you watched the lamps on the one card they all went on and off instantly as the switches operated except the BS which would dim to off.......
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The cap across the BS switch doesn't affect the timing/delay or latching of the spot circuit because it is bypassed by the spot relay during the spotting run (which provides the "latch" or "hold on" function). It only starts charging once the table is back up past 350* (TA2 closure).
The diode under the spot relay prevents damage to circuitry from the "back surge" that occurs when the relay turns off. It does not affect the timing/delay or latching of the spot circuit (but if it fails, it will take out a fuse). The diode is unnecessary on an OmegaTek (but doesn't hurt being there - there's no point removing a working one).
If you get the table stopping just after the #9 pin drops through to the cup, then the spot relay itself (or it's base or wiring) is the likely culprit.
But I think the OP's issue was the "strikelock" mentioned above.
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