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hey guys i have a real interesting issue with a shuttle. if the 7 pin is not sitting straight in bin it will fall through shuttle on spot cycle (the pin in the second set). i have done shuttle height and depth adjustment serviced shuttle rod checked the usual suspect causes now im ready to loose my temper i have moved my dizzy to favour the 10 pin side so i can get a straighter sitting pin but it is still an issue funny thing is the same issue is also happening on the lane next to it ... please please please can some1 give me some advice
When the table goes up slightly to get pins from the shuttle how far away is the cup from the shuttle? Too far and stuff like this can happen. I have a lane that does this sometimes at the 10, lots of clearance between the cup and shuttle but I like where the table is. I've lowered the shuttle almost as far as it will go and adjusted it back slightly more and now it almost never happens. Obviously the shuttle pin holders, shuttle strap, and all the bin parts there should be in good shape too. What could also be happening is excessive movement of the shuttle on that side when it shuttles pins, instead of a straight forward/back motion the shuttle could also be moving side to side a little, and on that side maybe more, enough that sometimes it catches the butt of the second pin as it is moving back causing the pin to fall through. Another thing is the shuttle rod, especially the spring. The rod should be completely screwed all the way together and the spring (when relaxed) should be 6", if the rod has unscrewed some and/or the spring has compressed there may not be enough tension to keep the rod rigid and it then becomes spongy, allowing the shuttle to move more than it should, add this to a shuttle that moves around all over the place and you can end up with double loads at the corners.
If you have more than an inch gap it will happen. You can lower the back of the bin by moving the bracket the bin hangs on. May have to drill two new holes. You want the cups as tight to the bin bumpers as possible.
whati do as far as adjustment is if your on the cat walk and you are looking directly down the front beam o the bins down at the shuttle front bar you should just see a touch of daylight between the two. this pushes the shuttle back a little more and it will keep the shuttle under the second set of pins. thats how all mine are set up and if there is any problem it is usually from pin delievery not the shuttle itsself.
im going to take both the shuttles out today check everything properly just strange how its happenin to a pair of lanes and its only been since new pins have gone in
shuttles arent exactly straight tubes are good but.
Pretty good mate. Still miss my 32 old girls on occassion but don't miss much else. I haven't caught up with anyone in a while. Chat to JD every now and then...
Hey mate, also check your stop bolt on the front, if there is too much gap your shuttle could be moving forward too much allowing pins to drop through...
AS REQUESTED....The all new and VERY improved "super cool" Pin_Head with super hip shades.....
Hey mate, also check your stop bolt on the front, if there is too much gap your shuttle could be moving forward too much allowing pins to drop through...
Too much of a stop bolt gap + a spongy shuttle rod =
The shuttle is controlled by the shuttle cam, shuttle operator assembly (spot solenoid and blocking finger), the 'shuttle drive' arm and connecting rod. When pins are to be shuttled into the cups the spot solenoid lifts the blocking finger allowing the shuttle cam follower to follow the cutout in the cam, The cam follower is on an arm that is connected to the shuttle with the shuttle rod. This arm or 'shuttle drive arm'- the one with the cam follower on it, also has a stop bolt that rests against the shuttle blocking finger on the shuttle operator assembly to prevent the shuttle from moving forward when it should not. Normally the only time the stop bolt contacts the blocking finger is when the cutout in the shuttle cam goes under the cam follower during a respot run of the table, this is what keeps it from dropping pins into the cups. At any other point in the cycle or when the table is at 355 there should be approximately 1/16" gap (or a hair, or daylight) between the stop bolt and the blocking finger. If the stop bolt is out too far causing the blocking finger to bind it will either not lift out of the way to shuttle pins or not be able to drop all the way to block the shuttle. On the other hand, if the bolt is in too far it will allow the shuttle to move too much during respotting which can cause pins to get jammed or fall through the shuttle. Generally speaking, when the table runs a respot stroke, as the table passes zero, a good adjustment would let the shuttle just bump forward ever so slightly, which is normal. This condition would indicate the bolt is in good position to keep the shuttle from moving too much when it should not and also indicates there is enough clearance between the stop bolt and the blocking finger.
im on the lane right now tiny gap at stop bolt ... caught it in the act it seems as though the shuttle is extending too far and doesnt come back in time and the pin above gets its bum caught in pin holders and shuttle strap and falls straight through .. i have just taken whole shuttle out straightened tubes and replaced holders now still doing it .. how do i minimise shuttle pull length? does this make any sence haha
Adjust the shuttle rod longer by turning rod end on the shuttle rod until it does not shuttle all the pins (single set) pushed all the way forward in the bin. Then shorten the shuttle rod one turn at a time until it does. This should get you s good starting point.
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