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B.E. Motor power cables.

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  • B.E. Motor power cables.

    What's everyone's opinion on the setup for these? I have westinghouse/AO Smith and need to replace a few. They are currently hard wired with 14 awg with female disconnects. The original plugs are nowhere to be found. What i have been doing is cutting an old 12 awg extention cord and just making sure they are through the hole provided and tucked good as opposed to just hanging in the front.
    Charley
    82-70's SS Chassis Omega-Tek w/expanders
    2009 Qubica scoring 3QT's and 6 box.

  • #2
    Generally speaking you should follow these guidelines....

    -The wire gauge should be large enough to handle the current. 14 ga. is adequate as it can handle 15 amp on 120V. You can use 12 ga if you like, it will handle 20A on 120V

    - Whatever method of connecting the cord to the motor you should keep these things in mind....
    ...the actual wire connections should be secure and inside the motor body so there are no exposed electrical connections
    ...there should be some kind of physical cord restraint device (clamp, wire tie, whatever) to prevent the cord from being pulled out of the motor. The cord should also not be resting on any edges that could damage it. The nice thing about the A.O. Smith/Westinghouse motors is there is a threaded hole in the side that allows you to screw in a 1/2" Romex or cord clamp that you can run the cord through and it would safely clamp the cord and protect it from damage- these can be picked up at the hardware store for cheap.If the motor has no plug and the cord goes into the motor through a small hole, if a clamp cannot be used I have seen where a wire tie was placed tightly on the cord just inside the hole so the cord could not be pulled out of the motor, goofy but it prevents the cord from getting yanked.

    These are general things that you would follow with any electrical device but they also apply to motors as well.

    If you would like, I can snap a pic of the Romex clamp I was talking about when I'm at work tomorrow so you can see what it looks like.
    Last edited by Tablejam; 04-03-2012, 10:00 PM.

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    • #3
      TJ brings up good points. its a tough call as to where/how you want to connect the BE motors. I don't agree that the plug and receptacle be hanging out directly in the path of pileups where a pinjam can literally cause and arc and ruin an motor. using the proper gauge wire is crucial or you will also be at risk for damaging your motors.

      the center I work for had a good idea that the motors plug up to a receptacle in the wireway above the gearbox. at some point they realized this was dangerous without a loop back to break the circuit. because if you have "hot" pins sticking up in the air and run the female cord/plug over to it and get it crooked the entire machine will conduct that electricity (usually back into the person doing the plugging) and arc. I do like having the male receptacle in the wireway and having the ability to disconnect the motor though.

      I've been making the female plug run directly out of the motor with a stress relief on the 14-2 wire. so basically the plug is wired into the motor and the receptacle is wired into the mechanic's control box.
      When you know what to do, everything is easy.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Grit View Post
        TJ brings up good points. its a tough call as to where/how you want to connect the BE motors. I don't agree that the plug and receptacle be hanging out directly in the path of pileups where a pinjam can literally cause and arc and ruin an motor. using the proper gauge wire is crucial or you will also be at risk for damaging your motors.

        the center I work for had a good idea that the motors plug up to a receptacle in the wireway above the gearbox. at some point they realized this was dangerous without a loop back to break the circuit. because if you have "hot" pins sticking up in the air and run the female cord/plug over to it and get it crooked the entire machine will conduct that electricity (usually back into the person doing the plugging) and arc. I do like having the male receptacle in the wireway and having the ability to disconnect the motor though.

        The rule is the plug or device supplying power is female (no exposed connections) while the plug or device getting power is male, just like any plug in your house.
        The rule is the plug supplying the power is female (no exposed connections) and the plug getting power is male, just like any plug in your house.
        I've been making the female plug run directly out of the motor with a stress relief on the 14-2 wire. so basically the plug is wired into the motor and the receptacle is wired into the mechanic's control box.
        You could easily switch that around so the female plug is in the wireway and the male is on the cord, just like any other lamp or appliance. That way you don't have exposed, conducting pins in the plug on the wireway. That's the nice thing about all of these motor plugs, the insides are universal to the outsides so they can be easily switched depending on the intended application. Just like any plug in your house, the device supplying power is female while the device getting power is male.

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        • #5
          Here is the Romex connector...





          Here it is installed on a motor...




          By the way that cord is 16ga which is rated for about 10amps and if I remember right the motors are rated 6 to 7 amps.

          Comment


          • #6
            you put some words in my mouth there in that quote box.

            If I'm not completely insane and just a little crazy I think the Quality motors pull 9-10 amps; 6-7 sounds right for the franklin/amfs. why risk it just use 8 gauge!
            When you know what to do, everything is easy.

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            • #7
              Oops I think I see my goof, sorry about that.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by LancerLanesMech View Post
                What's everyone's opinion on the setup for these? I have westinghouse/AO Smith and need to replace a few. They are currently hard wired with 14 awg with female disconnects. The original plugs are nowhere to be found. What i have been doing is cutting an old 12 awg extention cord and just making sure they are through the hole provided and tucked good as opposed to just hanging in the front.
                I've been converting the house to the AMP screw lock plugs as seen on the c90's/82-90's with cable glands at the stator. The twist lock r/s's are a nightmare at this age...

                Comment


                • #9
                  I think that's a great idea TJ of hardwiring direct into teh b/e stator as your pic shows, you could just run cable into wireway and have a plug in there, after all XLi b/e motors are hardwired into the motor, and have a plug in the wireway, and from there runs into the chassis. Saves those rotten worn out P.I.T.A b/e plugs vibrating loose all the time....,

                  " no ball return lane ###" to find plug fell out...
                  AS REQUESTED....The all new and VERY improved "super cool" Pin_Head with super hip shades.....

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