Spotting cup u-bolts

[mnorwell]

Does anyone know where it is possible to get hold of longer U bolts. We have been sorting spotting on our lanes and have a couple that have 8 or 9 pins on spot, but no adjustment left on the pincups that are not on spot?

We do have some already in the lanes but I can only find 1 part number for U bolts

[Will]

Bowling Vision manufacture longer Cup U-Bolts, same part number as the originals I believe.

[rivmike]

Should'nt the cap bottom out against the cup before the treads would need to be longer?

[8270king]

They do provide more adjustment

[Ted]

If you can get them close with the flag, you might have other issues with the xcasting, zbar, spot cam spring or rod ends. Plus, is the scribe line on the CL of the 7-10?

[Tablejam]

Wouldn't the longer bolts hit the heads of pins during respotting? I seem to remember having to remove the longer ones because of that. The only time I've run out of cup adjustment with the standard bolts is when the cup bottoms out against the cap, which means something else is going on and you've lost some tilt somewhere for the cups. I have seen a few times where the cap was ground down to get more adjustment and come across a few that had the keys removed- that one works but i think it's a bad idea. Usually some tilt loss can be caused by worn tie link bushings/pins, or one or more of the cup shafts has moved inside the arms connected to the tie link because the clamping bolt has come loose. it's amazing, the shafts only move just a little bit but it makes a big difference.

[8270king]

The cup hits the bottom of the spotting cup - about where the belly of the pin is

[8270king]

What the long bolts allow...is for the cut to bottom out against the cap - and have the nuts be engaged fully on the threads

[Tablejam]

Unless the pin moves offspot then the bolts can hit the pin causing pin damage or knocking it over.

[seanm]

Previously I've thought, just need some longer U bolts.. but have always remedied it with proper table adjustments.

[mnorwell]

thanks for the replies guys, in most cases we are just after maybe another 1/8" to get within spotting regulations. Like I said it is mainly 1 pin that is off its spot hence the slight extra adjustment needed but in most cases the nut is on the very last thread, we need like another 1 or 2 full turns tops which is a tad irritating.

[Tablejam]

thanks for the replies guys, in most cases we are just after maybe another 1/8" to get within spotting regulations. Like I said it is mainly 1 pin that is off its spot hence the slight extra adjustment needed but in most cases the nut is on the very last thread, we need like another 1 or 2 full turns tops which is a tad irritating.

If it's that close then have you checked the tie link arms? In most cases you can get more tilt by moving these. For example, the arm on the #1 shaft can be loosened while someone pushes and holds the back row cups forward while you tighten it. This will add tilt to everything behind the headpin. If it's just one row you need more tilt on, just do the same with the arm on that row. Doing this should get you well within the adjustment range you want using the standard U bolts.

[Pin_Head]

Out of curiosity mate, have you flagged the table before checking spotting adjustment? Also when you flag the table do you remove the spot and respot rods, table drive clevis bolt?

[Tablejam]

I used to think flagging the table was a big deal but its actually really easy.

[dothan]

If I had one pin that I can not get on spot then I used the spotting rod to get that pin on spot. Then adjust all the other cups to that pin.