ball lift problem

[mainman423]

82/70 machine with kicker ball lift. looking for an answer to why my machine is snapping the outside rudder drive belt. have had multiple brand new belts on the machine, it snaps them almost instantly when it tries to lift a ball. sometimes it will run for awhile. i already changed out the tension assembly and put in a rebuilt ball lift already. any thoughts? and any help is appreciated in advance!!!

[dothan]

I have kicker and never had problems of my outside rudder drive belt snapping. So your saying the one going from the ball lift to the belt tensioner? Dont take this wrong but do you have the right belt on there, and is any of your pulleys have a sharp edge? One more thing is your pulleys aligned,

[Coors]

Im assuming you're using maybe Adj Slow down Pulleys?

[Tablejam]

Never seen this before. Which belt is it when you say outside...is it the long belt that goes from the ball lift to the tensioner or is it the short belt that goes from the tensioner to the crank pulley? Alignment issues aside do the pulleys have any cracks, breaks, or edges that would cut a belt on them?

[mainman423]

it is the outside belt that runs from the ball lift to the belt tensioner, all belts are aligned, and braand new, correct belts, and as i said before i already put newly assembled belt tensioner and rebuilt ball lift so there could be no rough edges on the pulleys because they are brand new.

[mainman423]

Im assuming you're using maybe Adj Slow down Pulleys?

It is an adjustable speed sheave on the belt tensioner, yes!

[mainman423]

i have never had this problem before now, kinda why im reaching out to bowl tech, and yes they are correct outside v- belt part # 000-027-710, they are aligned and like i said in the thresd new belt tensioner as well an rebuilt ball lift.. i left nothing uncovered that touches the belt

[Tablejam]

Hmm... belts are correct, alignment is good, pulleys have no sharp edges, there doesn't seem to be any obvious cause to this. I don't think it's the adjustable sheave as the adjustable part affects the belt that goes to the rudder crank and you are saying that belt is fine it's the other one that is getting cut or breaking. If there is not an extreme amount of tension on the belts (doubt that would ever happen) then there must be something in there that is damaging the belts - or - remote possibility the belts are just junk, but I've never ever come across that.

This is a longshot but do you have chains on the kicker belt tensioners? MAYBE the chain is routed in such a way the belt is getting chewed up by it, but I would think if that was happening there would be belt shavings on the parts and on the floor- but maybe not.

Perhapse if you posted a still pic or video of this in normal operation someone might be able to spot the cause.

[dothan]

where do you get you belts. again long shot. maybe a bad batch.

[mainman423]

Hmm... belts are correct, alignment is good, pulleys have no sharp edges, there doesn't seem to be any obvious cause to this. I don't think it's the adjustable sheave as the adjustable part affects the belt that goes to the rudder crank and you are saying that belt is fine it's the other one that is getting cut or breaking. If there is not an extreme amount of tension on the belts (doubt that would ever happen) then there must be something in there that is damaging the belts - or - remote possibility the belts are just junk, but I've never ever come across that.

This is a longshot but do you have chains on the kicker belt tensioners? MAYBE the chain is routed in such a way the belt is getting chewed up by it, but I would think if that was happening there would be belt shavings on the parts and on the floor- but maybe not.

Perhapse if you posted a still pic or video of this in normal operation someone might be able to spot the cause.

i will try to get a video uploaded

[Coors]

What's happening is, your paddle drive belt (600) is getting wedged in the adj sheave when it goes from Total slack to No slack and vice verse. So the Lift to Tens Belt (710) Ends up acting like a rubber band. Please add a spring (or 2) from Mouse trap to lower Ball Lift Yoke shaft, located about 3 inches above the Belt tensioner.(Shuttle Spring or a few kicker belt springs) This will keep belt tension more consistent and not let it "Whack and Thwap"

[clutchplate]

I had the same problem on a machine when I installed the adjustable rudder shock. I never saw how it was breaking but as soon as I installed the original rudder shock, problem went away forever.

[ledgeviewmech]

I have had this happen. When the adj. slow sheave is set to the slowest setting the inside belt is too long, causing tensioner to not have enough tension on belts. Like Coors said. Either the ball lift pulley slips and burns through the outside belt, or the trap flips around and snaps the belt like a rubber band. I added the clips, rod and spring to the top shaft and no more breaks to the outside belt.

[8270king]

I use a kicker spring....and bend the one end open to go around the cast aluminum piece of the mouse trap on the bottom

[PINDUSTER]

When you use the slow down pulley you can use the short belt on both sides, from ball lift to tensioner and tensioner to rudder drive. Then you will not need extra springs the spring that is on tensioner will be enough to run with no problems.