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Regular shaft vs d-shaft


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  • Regular shaft vs d-shaft

    AMF says that you should use the regular shaft on ball lifts with a narrow opening not d-shafts.
    When I got to my center most where d-shaft and not in good shape so I started replacing with regular shaft.
    I have recently been replacing these straight shafts more often than the ones that still have the d- shafts.

    Is there really any benefit to having the regular shafts instead of d-shafts in a narrow opening?
    Sometimes we have to do stuff to get by....Just go back and do it right when the "by" has passed!!

  • #2
    I know i started changing them out a few years ago. Damn things just asking to dig into the D bearing, and make removing them impossible when they go bad. The regular shaft can still be awkward, but i've found them to be much easier to disassemble.


    • #3
      The D bore is 9 1/6" long. the other shaft is 8 13/16". so yes there is an advantage of about a quarter inch.
      When you know what to do, everything is easy.


      • #4
        Even the straight shaft are long for me. Every time we put in a new shaft as soon as it is all assembled we have to cut off whatever bit of thread is still exposed.

        We have 1/8th inch clearance or we could not even use pbl's.
        Sometimes we have to do stuff to get by....Just go back and do it right when the "by" has passed!!


        • #5
          D shafts will out live the regular straight cut ones by many many times. Only the bearings require replacing. Regular shafts are a mess. Get the D-shafts if they will fit! I have no problems with them fitting.


          • #6
            I did'nt like the d-bearing because if it seizes up it could spin out the aluminum casting. They were more expensive and harder to get apart. I use the reg. stuff with anti-seize on the shaft and after 4-5 yrs. I can pull most out by hand. (some a tap with a plastic hammer)


            • #7
              Well the last batch of straight shafts/bearings we were getting, the tolerances were bad... regardless of how much torque was put on the ends, the shaft would still spin inside of the bearing casing, eating the shaft for breakfast.
              Problem is the both the straight and D bore bearings are bad quality... especially for the price - its ridiculous.


              • #8
                You are correct!! I think the problem is where it says China.


                • #9
                  Yes, that is most certainly where the problem lies. Inferior.


                  • #10
                    Using the D shafts why can't you just grind down the threads after assembly so they are almost flush with the nut for clearance? Done this on several narrow exits and it works just fine.


                    • #11
                      Try using a dab of locktite to keep the shaft from spinning in the bearing.


                      • #12
                        If the proper torque is on the nuts the shaft shouldnt spin in bearing. 36 lanes going on 6 years and no issues. also 16 lane center goin on 5. when the bearings and or shaft go bad, straight shaft much easier to disassemble. Just my opinion. To each his own.


                        • #13
                          When I assemble a lower shaft, im not worried about the disassembly. All I want is for the assembly to last a very long time. If and when the time comes to rebuild and I cannot get the shaft out I will just replace the entire lower yoke.
                          If it cant be fixed with a hammer, use a bowling pin.


                          • #14
                            We had the same problem with AMF's D-bore shafts in our ball returns. We started getting the shafts from Stahl's which are shorter, about 1/4" I think.
                            9th Amendment!


                            • #15
                              et al.
                              Chinese bearings suck. When my 30's went g'bye most of the brgs were original. 50+ yrs... still good.
                              Go Pirates


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