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Sure-pik control box

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  • Sure-pik control box

    Got my head scratching on this one. 19/20 won't turn on the front return. If I remember correctly 20 wouldn't and eventually 19 followed suit. The return turns on with the switch on the control box. I swapped all 3 relays with the next pair. Relays are not the issue. Sockets look good and all wires/connections seem ok. Eliminated the thermal relay and the switch as well. When I run it manually by the switch I can visually see the main relay engage and it operates. Pulling the main fuse I can see the main relay disengage. When I have the lanes on from the machines I can hear the separate machine relays in the box engage and the main relay disengages. When I pull the main fuse the main relay engages. I am getting 38v from the machines. What do I look for next?
    Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.

  • #2
    Are these 30s? 70s only use 1 relay? King is the one to ask though, he has Piks and loves them.

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    • #3
      70's...the boxes have 3 relays.
      Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Pietenpol View Post
        70's...the boxes have 3 relays.
        I thought it was said last time, change the Aux. switch. Maybe the reg. contacts are shot.

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        • #5
          3 relay boxes are for 30's

          They will still work

          To see if it is the box or the wiring - unscrew the fuse - then pull the wires from the box to the AMC box off (2&3 on terminal strip closest to foul line) then put a jumper on those terminals - then screw the fuse back in - if the box comes on the box is ok - if not the wires from front to back are bad or the 24vdc signal to the control box is not wired correct or never was

          You have to steal 24vdc from the 70's on the C2 plug to make it work correctly

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          • #6
            Off the top of my head I'm thinking something with the kill switch where the ball exits the lift.
            Charley
            82-70's SS Chassis Omega-Tek w/expanders
            2009 Qubica scoring 3QT's and 6 box.

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            • #7
              You can bypass the kill switch for the little door if the switch is bas - pin and brown wire I believe. Take the wire off the terminal board and re route it to the toggle switch

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              • #8
                One pin in the relay socket slightly pushed out....everything is kosher once again. I figured it couldn't be the kill switch because it operated when the lift was turned on manually. A spare control box is one of the few parts I would love to have for these situations but don't. Should be remedying that within the next week or so. Now that that issue is done I have a pit that doesn't like light balls (going to shim it slightly opposite the ball door), got the flat screen upgrade finished, the floors have all been buffed and waxed and I believe we are ready for the new season. Just have to finish my workshop reorganization project.
                Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.

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                • #9
                  The kill switch is bypassed when the manual toggle switch is thrown

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                  • #10
                    So if you turn on the lift manually the safety switch doesn't work? Good thing to know next time I'm trying to diagnose.
                    Failed safety course.Question #1:In case of fire what steps do you take? Apparently 'Friggin long ones!" is the wrong answer.

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