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Bearing and bushing pullers

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  • Bearing and bushing pullers

    Well I'm looking to find out how everybody else pulls their bearings off the shaft end of the rear roller. I have had success with a small 3" 3 jaw on the front and non shaft end. but small puller cant reach; the 6" jaws on the bigger puller which are long enough don't fit under the bearing. Also any ideas on how to reinstall the bearing? the socket method won't work in this case.


    Also curious about replacing the sweep bushings without destroying the aluminum.
    Thanks for looking.
    When you know what to do, everything is easy.

  • #2
    Clamp roller in the vice, I use two large screw drivers and pry the bearing up. It only takes a half an inch and it will slide off. To put back on I use a 8 inch long peice of rudder arm (pipe) Gently tap on the new bearing.

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    • #3
      I have one of these http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rue&sst=subset. Left over from 30's motor work. Also handy to remove output shaft brg on combo motors
      Go Pirates

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      • #4
        Originally posted by rivmike View Post
        Clamp roller in the vice, I use two large screw drivers and pry the bearing up. It only takes a half an inch and it will slide off. To put back on I use a 8 inch long peice of rudder arm (pipe) Gently tap on the new bearing.
        I do something similar.

        As for the sweep link bushings, with the link in a vice and it supported, CAREFULLY tap them out with a socket or something similar. When I put the new ones in I use two old pieces of lane panel with it in the vice and squeeze the bushing in. Then a gentle file around the inside until the pin slides in smoothly. The key word when working on the sweep links is CAREFULLY as they can bend or break easily.

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        • #5
          I find its always easiest to use the 6" puller. but for bearings in which you cant fit the jaws underneath..... if you pull the retaining bolts and use 2 jaws in your hands like pry bars you can slide them right in then with a little pressure pulling them apart from each other you can back the bearing off far enough to use the puller. works every time

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          • #6
            When I took over the last place I was at, there weren't bearing pullers in the center. The mechanic that was there used 3/4" combo wrenches. It seemed fairly effortless when he did it, but I still ended up bring in my small jawed pullers from home.
            Regards,

            Billy T
            bthompson@qubicaamf.us

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Grit View Post
              Also curious about replacing the sweep bushings without destroying the aluminum.
              Check out PPP (Pinsetter Parts Plus) Look in there AMF catalog section. They have a cool little tool that will take the sweep arm bushings out for you.
              Live The Dream.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Mallen135 View Post
                I find its always easiest to use the 6" puller. but for bearings in which you cant fit the jaws underneath..... if you pull the retaining bolts and use 2 jaws in your hands like pry bars you can slide them right in then with a little pressure pulling them apart from each other you can back the bearing off far enough to use the puller. works every time
                This is what I do as well, but mine are a 8" puller, if you have anything bigger than a 3" then you can do as we do.

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                • #9
                  Yeah the PPP tool was like 40 bucks so i ordered one to try it out. I'm not sure if that tool is for the small links or if its for the drive links, guess ill find out soon enough. so a double stack of lane panel will stop the lil guys from getting crushed...thanks.
                  When you know what to do, everything is easy.

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                  • #10
                    Personally I don't like using screwdrivers for prybars and sockets for punches...That's why they sell prybars and punches.
                    I can't even spell Brunsw-ick anymore!!!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pinfeed View Post
                      Personally I don't like using screwdrivers for prybars and sockets for punches...That's why they sell prybars and punches.
                      Very true..but if you are only given so much in a budget you have to do with what you have. It is always better to use the appropriate tool for what it was intended for, but I always say each tool has more than one function.

                      What came first the wrench or the bolt? LOL

                      P.S. I am not trying to poke fun at anyone.

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                      • #12
                        @pinfeed:
                        I'm all for using the right tool for the right job, that's exactly why i started the thread. I just don't see: A. how you can install bearings with a punch. B. You really have a punch laying around for jobs like the 2 1/8" distributor post bearings or the 1 1/4" rudder pole, how about the 13/16" pinion bushing? how much did they cost?

                        @everyone: How does removing the sweep bushings with a socket work? the flange is in the way when they are both installed and even if you fit a socket between them there's no way to hit it. I was envisioning something like the PPP tool but if its crap, an alternate method would be great.
                        When you know what to do, everything is easy.

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                        • #13
                          I don't like beating on bearings. Bearings are installed with a press. I just don't like using my sockets for a "pusher". (Jap sockets...that's another story) Removal...Who cares how you get them out, it's not like you're going to reuse them. Everyone has junk laying around that can be used to punch out/press in bearings without using sockets and screwdrivers. Cost...$0.
                          I can't even spell Brunsw-ick anymore!!!

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                          • #14
                            To install bushings and seals I use the gauge for spotting cups, lay it flat and tap them in.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by rivmike View Post
                              To install bushings and seals I use the gauge for spotting cups, lay it flat and tap them in.

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