front ball lift clutch

[clutchplate]

What is the trick for removing the one way clutch bearings from the aluminum hub on the front ball returns?

[Tablejam]

Been awhile but isn't it held on the shaft by a set screw or bolt screwed into the end of the shaft? Remove that and punch the shaft out of it or use a bearing puller to pull the clutch off the shaft - the last time I did one (Brunswick but the AMF one should be similar) it went down this way..... years ago. There may be a set screw somewhere else but I don't think so.

When I get to work later I'll have a look at one of the spares to see if it's different than what I described.

[slb785]

The AMF one is damn near impossible. its pressed into the hub but the hub has a flange on one side so once its pressed in it cant be pressed back out. Order the solid hub and just run it with a solid hub on the bottom. They run forever like that

[Tablejam]

I just went to our never been used spare, took the bolt off the end and the clutch slid right off the shaft. The shaft had lube in it already so that might have made it easy but I would guess if it doesn't slide off maybe try evenly prying it on both sides or some pb blaster.

[keeth]

What is the trick for removing the one way clutch bearings from the aluminum hub on the front ball returns?

What I do since mine NEVER come out either is take it apart down to the aluminum housing and bearing only,put my hacksaw through it and put a slice in it which does put a small slice in the lip of the hub. Then you are free to go,pressed no more

[Tablejam]

What I do since mine NEVER come out either is take it apart down to the aluminum housing and bearing only,put my hacksaw through it and put a slice in it which does put a small slice in the lip of the hub. Then you are free to go,pressed no more

I'll remember that if I ever come across this.

[Mark_S]

Open the bench vise/vice. I put a 23mm socket against the bearing, then two 11/16 sockets against the casting on the opposite side. Basically the sockets are holding the assembly between the vise jaws. start to Close the vise, the 23 mm socket pushes the bearing out the opposite side. Once you've got it moving it comes out easily. The hardest part is setting it up in the vise with only one pair of hands.

[Knightshades]

you need a vise, hammer, punch, and propane torch. There's no way to get them out in one piece. Put the clutch in a vise upside-down. Heat the whole clutch with the torch and with a punch and hammer, knock the bearing out from the top by moving the punch around the edge of the bearing. Should come right out if you get it hot enough. Let the clutch cool and turn it over. From there you should be able to put the new one in with a block of wood to get it started and then finish with a socket that matches the size (don't remember what size right off hand). Done-----Oh yea make sure you put the new bearing in the correct direction, otherwise you just wasted a bearing.

[Knightshades]

Also make sure it's the bearing that's bad, the sleeve tends to tear up. I always replace the sleeve and bearing at the same time. I've never had one not come out with heat and a hammer. You don't have to clamp the clutch with the vise either, just open it enough to set the clutch and so the bearing can fall from the bottom.