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Ok guys I have 10 lanes and this is causing 2 to be down and I just had a kid throw a ball and break the sweep arm next to me, so now I am down to 7...and I have 75 kids coming in at 8 in the morning for the high school PE class and need to have as much up as i can...
The bearing on the top wheel for the ball return, is totally shot...shreaded like crazy...I would post a pic but my phone doesn't want to upload right now for some reason...
I have a spare part/bearing, but cant seem to get the old one out...Where do I start? The wheel/band is really tight, and the 2 fork arms dont move enough for me to pry them away and slide a new one in...I cant pull the old one out...is there something other then the c-clip holding this bearing in?
Flip the plate on the side of the lift. (two bolts) squeeze the belt and tighten so less tention on belt. Roll belt off and remove nuts aqnd loosen the jam bolts on the pulley. Gently tap the shaft out, then pound out the bad bearing to the inside and put back together. Make sure that the keeper washers are there and the small side is facing the inner bearing race.
thanks a bunch, I will try and do all of that in the morning...gotta get there early to fix it! Had to leave for the night...was going to strangle someone!
I find it easier to take the top assembly off and fix it in the workshop. Nothing more frustrating that dropping parts and tools.
Why not try add a few extra parts to your orders and build a spare upper and lower pbl castings. Then order the rest of the pbl and youll have a complete spare.When one breaks you can just pull the pbl or swap the assembly. More importantly it will save your alot of frustration.
Remove this upper wheel and yoke assembly from the ball lift and take it to the bench. Lube the shaft with Pb blaster or wd40.
What you happen to have is the old style locking collar bearings and shaft. Loosen the bolts on the wheel, then loosen the set screws on the locking collars of the inside of the bearings, there is a notch in the yoke so turn them until this lines up so you can get the Allen wrench in there. Then take off the retaining ring on the side you are going to punch and supports the yoke in a vice carefully work the shaft out. Installation is the reverse but if you change to the bearing with no locking collars that has retaining rings instead you will also need the nuts and correct shaft.
The old style locking collar bearing goes in the link from the outside, the new style with the retaining rings goes in from the inside.
Good morning, I have built a tester for the MP Chassis for the 82-70 machines. Instead of using the cam switches I am using relays. My question is to anyone that may...
Is anyone running the solderless relays on the accelerators? How do you like them? What brand? How difficult to convert was it? Would love the feed back as I'm about to switch...
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