SS OMEGA CHASSIS QUSTION

[racelanes]

Problem is in CHASSIS NOT PINSPOTTER

THERMAL CIRCUIT BRAKER TRIPS CONSTANTLY!

NO BALL LIGHTS ON MASK

CAPS AND PIN LAMP TRAC HAVE BEEN REMOVED BECAUSE OF OMEGA TECH BOARD

ANY THOUGHTS ON CAUSES?

THANKS IN ADAVANCE

[mackeb]

Faulty rectifier on XOP board can cause this from time to time, unsure of OT though...

[Tablejam]

Check the heat sink under T1. If a screw or something metal fell in there and is touching both the heat sink and the side of the chassis or the mounts foe T1 are broken allowing it to touch the heat sink this will happen.

[wb8yjf]

Check the heat sink under T1. If a screw or something metal fell in there and is touching both the heat sink and the side of the chassis or the mounts foe T1 are broken allowing it to touch the heat sink this will happen.

*Bingo*

[dothan]

If the caps serve no purpose than is there any special wiring I need to know to remove them. I like to trim these down and remove any unneccessary items in the chassis.

[wb8yjf]

If the caps serve no purpose than is there any special wiring I need to know to remove them. I like to trim these down and remove any unneccessary items in the chassis.

It's easier just to cut the wires and tape them off vs. removing them. Ya gotta figure those caps are 30-40 years old in most cases.

[mackeb]

It's very hard to find caps of this age that have their original value anyway. Most have long since deteriorated.

[smurtland]

Aren't the caps still needed if you don't have the expander board?

[felix]

http://www.tuffyparts.com/index.html

[wb8yjf]

Aren't the caps still needed if you don't have the expander board?

No.

[smurtland]

No.

Ok then. I know you can remove the pin light triac and the auxiliary board, what else can be removed? Pics of the caps or anything else would be great so I know exactly what I might get into.

[wb8yjf]

he AUX board should always be cut out of the chassis - that thing is way more trouble than it's worth at this point. The MK-70 or XOP board has it's own triac or transistor to turn on the lights and it has a self contained regulated power supply on-board that eliminates the variations in those old chassis as far as supply voltage to the board - hence the elimination of the capacitors. Remove all that stuff and 'welcome to the 90's'

[Stoctster]

Ok then. I know you can remove the pin light triac and the auxiliary board, what else can be removed? Pics of the caps or anything else would be great so I know exactly what I might get into.

I've been removing the caps from my chassis over the last year or so...here's how I've been doing it :

IMAG0178.jpg


CP1 - Two wires (orange and yellow); snip/desolder wires where they connect to the motherboard.


CP3 - Two wires (purple and grey); snip/desolder wires where they connect to the motherboard.
Green wire; snip at connection to common ground.
Black wire with diode; snip where it connects to terminal strip.


CP2 - Grey wire to "spider" heatsink; snip at heatsink, remove heatsink and pin lamp triac/wiring.
Peach wire (the one i'm pointing at in the pic above, from silver heatsink) runs to cap and connects to green wire. . After removing CP2, the peach wire needs to run to where the green wire previously connected on the motherboard. (I found if I didn't do this it caused issues with the ball lights on the masking unit...)

All done!
IMAG0179.jpg

[8270king]

^ Good work

[Coors]

CP2 -. . After removing CP2, the peach wire needs to run to where the green wire previously connected on the motherboard. (I found if I didn't do this it caused issues with the ball lights on the masking unit...)

Thank You for that. . . . .98ish, i got rid of the "Vintage" Stuff, & ran into that problem, so i still run with CP2's. . . . .