Respot cell adjustment procedure

[cdsand5]

I am curious as to what each of you think is the best way to adjust the cells.

[rivmike]

Take all carb links off except the 7, get it adjusted with the main carb link and then do the rest one by one.(open all the way with a 1/2 inch of play on one finger) I also put a nut on the main stud, some do all of them.

[8270king]

1. Set the short link that operates the cells in spotting position so there is the 15/1000 gap
2. Carb links - opening
3. Gaps with gauge and 1/4 wrench
4. Stop bolt so cells do not close full and bottom out bolts inside of fingers

[Pin_Head]

I know it's an old cliche but for me the "book" procedure works just fine for me....

[Tablejam]

Pretty much same as above but here we have tables with old and new 7 cells and some with fixed links at the bellcrank so it's a bit different but not much really, both start at the 7. Very important that during spotting the cam follower under the shifter cam is not too tight, you should be able to lift the shifter cam just enough to freely turn the cam follower. If this is too tight it can bend the tie rod or break the bellcrank. The tie rod and/or the stop bolt on the bellcrank can be adjusted to get this and make sure the stop block on the table casting is tight.

The setup procedure in the book is a good place to start.

As with any adjustments make sure everything is in good shape, no missing screws or bent pivot pins, etc, before making the adjustments. This is important because anything loose or bent can affect the adjustment or cause issues with how the cells operate.

The 7 is set first- with the adjustable link at the bellcrank with the fixed 7 cell or the fixed link at the bellcrank with the adjustable 7 cell , using the shifter cam on the table to close and open the cells, while holding it in the open position get about 1/4" play on the rear finger, then go up the rows, 4-2-1-8-5-3-9-6-10. Each time at each cell closing then holding the shifter cam open to get the 1/4" play. As for the closed position I just go by what the book says, turn the stop bolt on the shifter cam in so when the cells are fully closed it does not touch the stop, then while still in the closed position turn it out until it touches the stop, then turn it out 4 more turns. This sets the cells to close more than enough to lock but also not bottom out in the fingers.

This is for the aluminum table.

[Rep]

Much the same here, I do mine just like TJ's. First I set the "skinny rod" for the proper adj of the cam follower, make sure this is right, too loose and your cells won't open when spotting fully if they're closed, too tight and you can turn the skinny rod into a pretzel or break any number of things. Then start with your 7 cell and work up the wireways, 7,4,2,1,8,5,3,9,6,10. After this I checked the stop bolt, I took pretty much went by the book here as mentioned. I actually always enjoyed doing cells and after a few times it's not bad at all you just get in a rhythm and know what to look for

[Mark_S]

All of the above, but check all hardware is in good condition. One thing I've learnt with respots Is you can have something fail, then you do a set up. A day later the problem reoccurs. Thins to check, rod ends, springs wire ways, cells

[mechanic8230]

I always check the ball studs for wear too. If you get one rusted up a little or worn down it will bind up in the carb link and drive you crazy. I generally but a smear of grease on them.

[Pin_Head]

I have also learnt as seen at my centre, that it is also so important to check not only the table hardware, but the condition of your respot link arm, and the pivot shaft AND the spot/respot cam.