BE issues, elco chassis

[exactlyvague]

After 22 years, my best pinny left. His parting gift to me was a smoked chassis. BE relay would stick once in awhile, tap it and move on.... Well he touched something and said smoke came out. Omega causes continuous table and I found where a capacitor blew up on the expander card. I have normal functions back now, but still no back end. Replaced the BE relay, found a burned up circuit breaker, checked M relays with known good ones, tested wires for continuity, found one bad that goes from the BE to the M and replaced it, checked pins and plugs...... Still no &$@#+( back end. I'm a 90 guy, working on 70s so the chassis is mostly greek to me. The book says the t4 transformer gives it its power, is it possible its fried and which one is it? From what I can see there are only 2, a big one and a small one, one labeled t1 the other t2

[Rep]

MP's have 4 transformers. Solid State's only have T1 and T2 as you saw. Did you check the C1 plug? Those pins LOVE to fry on elco (SS) chassis. It's a yellow wire in the chassis in the middle of the top row. It's been years for me so I forget the exact spot or position but you should be able to find it

[exactlyvague]

From what I can see, there are only 2 wires for the BE on the C1 plug, top row, second one in, black wire and fourth wire in, yellow. I pulled them both and checked continuity. Seems to be fine as well as the bottom row, C2 third from right, red wire.

If the creek was any closer, this chassis would be in it.............

[Chapmansbowling]

Is the B/E relay you installed the old, Or new style one? If you replaced an old style with a new style, Make double-sure that you have the wiring correct to the relay.

[exactlyvague]

Is the B/E relay you installed the old, Or new style one? If you replaced an old style with a new style, Make double-sure that you have the wiring correct to the relay.

That could be the issue, I swapped wire for wire from old to new. I don't suppose there's a diagram laying around somewhere I could look at?

I also forgot to mention in my original post that I also swapped the the H terminal relay too.

[exactlyvague]

To hell with diagrams, I just took a perfectly good relay apart and checked, (It isn't my money buying the parts, why not?) there does seem to be some slight differences in wiring. But of course, there are only 8 lanes that take this particular chassis and they are all being used for birthday parties right now.......

[exactlyvague]

Well, that wasn't it

[wb8yjf]

The coil wires are in different places for the newer BE relays - if you hooked it up wrong, more than likely it would have let you know. Is the relay pulling in?

Might wanna give the cube relays a little twist - might be a bad socket.

[Tablejam]

In the old days (when you were allowed to do such things) there was a simple test you could do to determine if it was a high or low voltage issue on the relay. With the main power on and the machine "off" you were able to take a stick or something insulated and push the be relay contacts in to close them. If the be motor came on then you knew the high voltage side was working and wired correctly- so that would leave an issue with the low voltage or coil wiring. If you like when I get to work later I have several of the new style relays in my chassis I could check the wiring for you.

[Tablejam]

This is what I got for the wiring.....

Old relay.....
Power-blk/wht #3, yellow #4
Coil- red #5, blue #6
Jumper- #7, #8

New relay...
Power- blk/wht #4, yellow #6
Coil- red #7, blue #9
Jumper- A & B

[exactlyvague]

In the old days......... you were able to take a stick.......

A stick?! Are you saying you're old enough to out date modern tools?

My center is cheap, but they let me have tools

Today is my day off, I'll electrocute myself first thing Monday morning.

[smurtland]

A stick?! Are you saying you're old enough to out date modern tools?

My center is cheap, but they let me have tools

Today is my day off, I'll electrocute myself first thing Monday morning.

Nice, very nice!

[wb8yjf]

This is what I got for the wiring.....

Old relay.....
Power-blk/wht #3, yellow #4
Coil- red #5, blue #6
Jumper- #7, #8

New relay...
Power- blk/wht #4, yellow #6
Coil- red #7, blue #9
Jumper- A & B

I think I see the problem. The new relay coils are marked A & B on the ones I have - they are the two terminals (side by side) that would be located closest to the mount.

Move the coil wires to A & B, jumper to terminals #7 & #9, and the power wires to #4 & #6 and you should be good to go.

Hey, ain't nuthin wrong with using dowel rod to push the contacts with, at least theres no way to short it to anything.

[dothan]

i still use a stick to check the relay.

[wb8yjf]

i still use a stick to check the relay.

Wood is a poor conductor.