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  • D-Bore Shaft

    I have recently switched some of my ball lifts bearing and shafts from the old round ones with the snap rings on the end of the shafts and set screws in the collars. I have a couple questions about the new D-Bore shafts and bearings. Is there any easy way to get them in? How do you get them to stop that annoying clicking? And whats the purpose of the nuts on the end of the shaft if when you snug it up it binds the clutch?

    Thanks for any hints clues and advise.

    Also installed my first Humpie the other day. Wow, why does it take us all so long to think of the esy things? This thing is fantastic!!!

  • #2
    Re: D-Bore Shaft

    Hi Dennis,

    I think you might be leaving out the bearing race in your assembly. AMF doesn't ship the races in there kit, you have to buy them seperately. Some times they leave out the required number of spacers also.

    You need:
    1-shaft
    2-bearings
    2-races
    2-nuts
    4-spacers

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: D-Bore Shaft

      Dennis: The nut, when torqued to 62ft-lbs (non-D-bore, 40 lbs min. on D-bore), clamps the long races to the inner bearing races, via the stepped spacers. The clutch bearings in the drive pulleys then slip onto the race right over the nuts. This makes it possible, if your spacing is more than 10" between kickbacks, to change out a bad clutch pulley without removing the lift.
      The set screws in the outer pulleys (first stage lift & rudder drive) prevent the races from spinning by going through their holes. The new races have elongated holes to allow for in and out adjustment. It doesn't hurt for the drive pulleys to have side play...they will still drive and align themselves to the belt.
      I prefer the non-D's myself. They seem to be better quality, and when a bearing goes bad, the shaft will self destruct, but chances are you'll notice the misalignment before the wheel touches the yoke. When a D-bore goes, it tears the entire bearing apart quickly.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: D-Bore Shaft

        Bender/BowlEquip; Nice explanation! But who has 10" between the kickbacks??? Also 80ft-lbs. sticks in my head.
        If at first you don't succeed, try, try, again. Then quit. There's no use being a damn fool about it." -W.C.Fields

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: D-Bore Shaft

          Bender, thanks for the relply. This is the order that I have installed the d-bore shaft in the lower pulley.
          From the inside to the end of the shaft as follows:
          1 Pulley
          2 Stepped spacer
          3 Bearing
          4 Stepped spacer
          5 Race sleave with clutch puley
          and outer pulley
          6 Nut

          On the upper shaft I have them as follows
          1 Pulley
          2 Stepped spacer
          3 Bearing
          4 Nut

          The clicking seems to be more prominent in the upper assembly. However the lower assembly seems to make somewhat of a rubbing noise.


          Bowlequip
          These sleaves with the elongated holes, are these an AMF product? If so do they have a different part number or are they making them all that way now? Thanks for the help

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          • #6
            Re: D-Bore Shaft

            I do some service in a 4 lane legion house in Morocco, Indiana. 10 1/2 in. between kickbacks. Also lanes 1 and 2 are split. 2 ball lifts for that pair. I like the D- bore shafts but is there a better quality bearing out there ?

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: D-Bore Shaft

              D Bore shafts were designed to save the shafts when the bearings went bad, but unfortunately when the bearing goes the shaft tends to groove itself and you have to beat it off anyway. If you are having a problem with the pulley's sticking your are tightening the endnuts way to tight

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: D-Bore Shaft

                Quote:]Originally posted by felix:
                ...who has 10" between the kickbacks??? [/QUOTE]
                Not me....im not even 9 1/2 on most pairs. ive had nothin but praise toward D bore's

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                • #9
                  Re: D-Bore Shaft

                  D-bore bearing = Nice 8417

                  I use them for more than 13 years now and I'm very satisfied about them.
                  In the start I bought them from a local bearing supplyer, After a while Amf was selling them too, but with less quality(one ball less in the bearing)and that made me put some spring washers between the pully and the stepped spacer(this will push the bearings more towards the yoke, and prevent it for bending if you fasten the nut).I buy my D-bore bearings in the shop where I started buying them again.

                  The reason why the upper pully is making the clicking sound sooner is that there is more space between the pully and the upper yoke, put some extra spring washers in there too, this will prevent bearings getting out of the yoke.

                  Martin

                  P.s. The D-bore bearing on the upper shaft is in my opinion not realy necessary, I put the old round ones in there that used too destroy my lower shafts(with extra spring washers-by the way I use the spring washers you can find in the distributor head from a 30 machine)

                  [ February 25, 2001: Message edited by: lampie ]
                  So it goes.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: D-Bore Shaft

                    No matter how tight the nuts are, all you're doing is clamping the two bearings' center races together, separated by the two inner spacers and the wheel. This design will cause the bearings to go in toward each other, provided the bearing went into their bores freely. If they had to be pounded in, then the wheel can stiffen up.
                    I always, after assembling the wheel, shaft and spacers, check for side-to-side play between the yoke casting arms, and add shims (spring washers sound good, too) as necessary, being sure to center the wheel.
                    One other thing: if you're talking about the clutch pulleys tightening up by over tightening the nuts, there were some inferior races out there at one time that were very soft and would change shape a few thousandths when squeezed by the nuts. This would stiffen up the float a bit.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: D-Bore Shaft

                      Hey Dennis,

                      I think they changed the length of the clutch race when they went to the threaded shaft. If you are still using the old clutch races this might be the reason why the clutch is being clamped down when the nut is tightened.

                      Old race # 000 029 683
                      new style 070 006 749
                      AMF elong 090 003 401

                      If you don't already know. You need to remove the retaining rings from the yolk and install the new stye bearing w/ring from the inside of the yolk.

                      You might want to consider using 4 spacers on the top shaft. The smaller side of each facing the bearing. Its kind of like a prevention measure so that things don't get tightened down on the ball/cage/seal of the bearing.

                      Whenever I here the top clicking I replace the bearing. It's an early warning sign that its about to fail. I never heard a new bearing click, can't suggest anything on that one.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: D-Bore Shaft

                        Hey Bender, thanks for the part numbers. I'm sure that I still have the old ones. Will order some of the new ones and see what happens.
                        Thanks again. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: D-Bore Shaft

                          Thanks, Bender. I forgot about the old 000- numbered races. FYI: the 070- ones are no longer available. AMF has crossed over to the 090's.
                          Another FYI: It seems all new ball lift bearings have less than 50% grease fill, some less than 30%! You need to open up all bearings and check and add as necessary. Do not pack them solid, though, lest the seals pop off later. Check both sides...most only have grease on one side.
                          Happy Packing!

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