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What have you all added to your machines or chassis' to help you out? Here's a partial list on mine:
-Table, Sweep, Cycle buttons on Chassis.
-Ball stepper button on Chassis.
-B.E. Motor ON/OFF toggle switch on Chassis.
-Pit Light ON/OFF toggle switch on Control Box.
-Table Run pushbutton on control box.
-LED's on Chassis indicating 1st ball, 2nd ball, X, foul. (Front & rear of chassis for 2nd ball)
- Near the A&MC Box; Be, sweep and table switches On/off and at the same time those swiches are a thermal overload swithes, this will save your motors/stators and motor plugs(and ofcourse you can get rid of the motor clixons that never work the way you want).
-Machine on/off switch on the BE control panel.
-And recently, automatic swsr(after off spot) in the Be control box, with a switch to disable this cicuit(this is the one I like most).
-did get rid of the table wires(gps is going away now too-THANK YOU BOWLEQUIP)
-more to follow
Quote:]Originally posted by Ed Fox: Feminine napkins to the oil pan's. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif[/img]
Ed[/QUOTE]
Why Ed? Did you buy too many at the store last month? You know they don't go bad, so you could use them this month. [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
it's suprising how much oil those napkins soak up there a life saver on brunswick and you don't have to change them every day. or is that a few times a day ,I guess the new ones are better [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT
Hehehe!
Have heard the "mini-thin-pad" in the gearbox drip pan before. Maybe that's what Ed Fox is doing with the pads he "empties from the women's room weekly."
If you don't want oil running down your machine wall and ploughs, I think this is the way to go. "FILL WITH 1 PINT OF SOHIVIS J-156 OIL" just doesn't work anymore.
Ashtrays are a good idea - then I wouldn't have to ash on the carpet belt anymore.
Oh boy just wait till Dutch chimes in about chassis. He's got all kinds of good examples there.
I bought some oil absorbent material from McMaster-Carr and cut it to fit inside the pans. You can tell real easy when a motor starts to drip, plus it buys you a little extra time before you have to pull the motor and reseal it. Of course, some mechanics prefer to let them leak and fill the pans to overflow. Right Bowlequip? [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
(Proposed) A DPDT (On-Off-On) toggle switch on the back end control box for putting the machine into continuous cycle. Center position=OFF; UP=cycle with scoring; DOWN=RPO cycle.
(Proposed) An ON/OFF (managers control) switch somewhere in front, either A&MC box, chassis, or machine (besides the one in B.E. control box).
We have also started relocating the back end motor klixons and capacitors to the control box, inluding a nice AMP CPC flange connector on the wire duct for the motor plug. No more broken klixons due to jams! If anyone is interested, I may start another thread on this later.
You have all your gps switches out(I'm gonna do this too very soon), but I allready did get rid of ALL my clixons(and did change/move away all the BE-motor plugs).All this thanks to what I mentioned earlier in this thread.
And with the on/off swithes on the BE-control box I did allmost the same as you did : off(except when the lane is hired(machine on/off cotrolled by front desk computer, on 1(machine on without cushion switch), on 2 (machine on with cushion switch).
Quote:]Originally posted by AMF Magic: Oh boy just wait till Dutch chimes in about chassis. He's got all kinds of good examples there.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Chad, You're really putting me on the spot here.
OK, here's a few of the things we've done over the years...
Chassis:
Put relay sockets on the expanders that didn’t come with them so that the relay can be changed easier.
Ran the APS cable thru the mask plug so there’s 1 less cable hanging out of the chassis.
Using only gold contacts in the C-1.
Split the yellow BE motor wires into 2 wires thru the C-1, then back to one.
Kept one spare chassis with 5 boards for diagnostic purposes.
Control box:
Added a switch to change decklight from white to black light.
Put extra fans (left over from when we had Sure-Piks) on curtain wall to aid in back end air circulation, wired to BE motor terminal board in control box of odd machines with switch to turn them on/off as needed.
Machine:
Enviro-bushings throughout the machine & Humpbacks currently in progress.
Welded braces to new style pit supports & washers to carpet angles.
Added extra brace to bounce plate rear board.
Lowered rear of dist mount ¼”.
About the C-1 BE motor wire: I told my boss what you've got going, he was unimpressed. "Why not just use a spade connector instead?" he said.
He thinks you've got a good thing going with that, but also thinks it could be done easier. Ours remain unchanged, so it's probably a moot point anyway.
Everybody really likes all the other ideas you provided. Especially the strap under the rear bounce plate.
DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHO MAKES THE SPRING-TYPE DIST. U-JOINT? We have some going, the boss thinks they're Vantage, but none of my V catalogues list them.
Heres one more:
Distributors that are tougher to trip than they should be: bend the end of the trip arm spring 070 006 035 out about 1/2" (extend the part that sticks out). Provides a little less tension.
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