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I just wanted to find out why you guys slow down the pin wheels on 70`s.i've been working on these machines for around 30 years and never felt the need to slow them down,if anything i'd like to speed up the dist a bit.i'm in a 24 lane house that runs about 50 to 60 lines a bed more on some days.
I get between 3 and 10 misfeeds per week total and have ran for 4 to 5 days with out any.if i were to slow them down could i run for month's with out any misfeeds.how many of you have slowed them down,good and bad results?? thanks crud [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]
[ March 09, 2001: Message edited by: CRUDWEISER=BUD ]
if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT
Crudster-
At the Reno Hilton (sorry to steal your thunder, Dutch) they use OEM pulleys and belts primarily, a few with Grainger pulleys and B188 belts. I was a little startled to see the elevator and distributor work at such speed. I have been conditioned to see them work (with the smaller pulleys and belts) slower.
From my humble observations, the smaller (slower) setup is a band-aid, allbeit a good one. A TRULY good mechanic should be able to make an OEM pinspotter run (almost) flawlessly, but for the rest of us, the Grainger setup works just fine.
We have a pile of OEM pulleys and B190 belts, but I am just too chickens**t to use them.
The only problem is when you have a bowler or league who strikes every time. The slower setup makes the strike cycle slow. Sometimes intolerably slow. Any faster, however, and I would actually have to WORK! Aaugh! Perish the thought!
CRUD: This all started to space the pins farther apart on the distributor. That helps with distributor feed in general, BUT it usually upsets orientation drastically. Better mechanics can usually adjust the kidney and pan to compensate for this, but it is a pain, and not always effective.
If your jam calls are as low as you say, don't change a thing or you'll run into trouble.
bowl eq- you ever thought about speeding up the dist a little,I was in a center around 77 and amf installed some used 70's jap machines two came in with 50cy be mtrs dist,pe were cooking.the only problem I had was when dist went from the 3 to the 2 dist would hit the catwalk [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img] I just added a few more springs on dist support and got it to run,and I had to remove the belt guard it would catch the head on #9 once in a while.
the pins didn't waste any time going over the trip arms,I ran them for about 3 weeks until I got some moters from amf.Ive thought about speeding up the dist just slighty though I think that would give a little more space between pins and maybe stop the pins from laying sideways when double loading?
what do you think
if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT
Speeding up the distributor would be my choice, but that output speed (60.1 rpm) is fixed unless we get into some special gears. Can't justify spending $$$ for 50 cycle motors, either.
As far as the second stack of pins, you'd have to watch for "bounce-back" as they hit the butt plate.
What has helped me in the crooked pin department (hangovers) is raising the front of the distributor at the cross bar. The pins then bounce on the first stackers with momentum, driving the heads in....most of the time,
All you have to do to insure a sppedy strike cycle is to put 21 pins in. As far as pins over the stringers I use 3/4 ID tubing slit and installed over the top of the offending stringer.
bowl eq I was thinking of a slighty larger rear pulley on dist,wouldn't be able to go very much not enough room,but maybe enough to make it a little faster just a thought :p crud
if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT
KING what are you smoking or drinking??
the topic was slowing pw down,getting less dist jams,pros and cons,not speeding up x cycle.what are you smoking or drinking I want to get some!crud [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif[/img]
if things aren't going right just use a bigger hammer! DIRT
This Crud's for you:
Well, of course, the two are interrelated - when the pin wheel is slowed down, so is the strike cycle.
As soon as the boss pays off his new '55 TBird, we might be able to afford enough pins to have 21 in each machine.
CRUD: Sorry, but due to the small amount that you can increase the diameter, a larger drive pulley will not significanly increase the speed or distance. (Laws of physics, plus I tried it years ago).
Don't fall for the theory that a 50HZ motor (OEM) runs any faster than a 60HZ (Again OEM) on American current. I have 32 lanes of formerly Japanese 70's with 8 ex-British stuck in the middle.
If you do the math from the nameplate data, you'll find that the speed is within around 10 rpm of the other. Try this: take the nameplate rated rpm of a 50 hz motor and multiply it by 50, then divide it by 60 and you'll come to around 10 rpm difference of the nameplate rated rpm of the 60 hz motor.
I've fought this misconception for over a year now and have finally convinced most of the people tht care that the difference is in the GEARS! As we changed the motors, there was no noticeable change but when we kept the 50 cycle motor and stuck an American (60 cycle) gearbox in, VOILA, slower tables, sweeps and backends!!
P.S. I keep 50 cycle gearboxes on the sweeps, if they run a little faster, the number of pins parked on the front roller goes down.
Can somebody give an explaniton how pins 2, 3, 6 are supposed to be connected. I had a shortcircuit there for the drive motor connection because of water leakage.
I have a distributor that is pulling the belt hard to the left in the nine pin position (and possibly 6 pin), but seems fine in the other spots. As you can see the residue and...
I have several Pin Elevators that I believe to be out of round on my XLi's and was curious if anyone has ever run across this before and is so, what you did about it.
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