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hey guys,
have any of you guys using humpbacks got photos that could be posted. as far as i know there are not any humpbacks in australia and info from the manufacturer is fairly limited as to how thay actually work.
if posting pics try to show elevator modifications,door weldments,belt etc..
i believe they have some form of adjustable lower pivot on the elevator.
hope you can help.
len.
Len: Sorry I don't have pics, but for your information that adjustable bracket is a life saver. It's a special version of the lower link bracket that gets added to the lift when converting to PBL. It allows for changing the angle of the elevator (lift) to compensate for variations in up-rail angles, so you can get the proper tension on the ball as it nears the top.
For all PBLers: this braccket is available by itself. Great if you're experiencing balls spinning or yo-yo-ing inn the lift.
hey neil,
how is the installation of your "new" sure-piks going?
len.
p.s. say hi to john and terry for me.
p.p.s. for all you other guys the mod neil is talking about is that i am bending the ball lift tube just above the top pivot bracket. i bend it enough so that the belt "v" clears the top bracket (this is the one where the shaft that sits on the adjuster bumpers is) by 7/16".
by bending the main tube the belt moves closer to the rails starting right from where the belt comes off the lower pulley.
this retains your 1/4" setting for light ball entry.
at the top area the belt is so close the lift raises up similar to a kicker elevator.
i have tried changing the rail angle, but this tends to increase the vertical angle at the bottom making it harder for the ball to lift up.
to bend the tube i take the belt off, lock the top pulley assy. solid then position the whole assy. on the bench with the tube supported under the top bracket. the support is positioned on the end of the bench so the top half of the assy. is hanging "over the edge". the assy. is then levelled both across the belt pulleys and along the assy. length. i then hold the assy. tight to the bench using a large "g" clamp. to get the correct gap between the belt "v" and the top bracket i place a length of round "stiff" rod between the two pulleys. to assist in bending the tube i hang 4 sweep counter balance weight off the top pulley. once this is set up i turn on the oxy/acetylene torch and just heat the tube up until the weights start to "pull" the top end of tube down. once the tube starts to bend, careful use of the gas torch will be needed so that the tube doesn't bend to far.
geez, i wish i had a digi camera cause as they," say a picture says a thousand words".
i have two units in working and the spare is going in this weekend. i'll keep you posted.
i am also fitting the lbs tensioner assy. with the original tension spring as used on the kicker exit. this gets rid of that stupid long rod and spring set-up which seems to be hooked up to machines at different positions giving varying spring
tensions.
again, i wish i had a camera(also the brains to know how to up/down/side load it)>
Sounds like quite a production you have going there Len
Fingers crossed for ya so everything works out
I'll say hi to John and Terry, ball returns are all installed, going in tonight to sand and coat approaches
Neil [img]/content/btubb/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]
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I have a distributor that is pulling the belt hard to the left in the nine pin position (and possibly 6 pin), but seems fine in the other spots. As you can see the residue and...
I have several Pin Elevators that I believe to be out of round on my XLi's and was curious if anyone has ever run across this before and is so, what you did about it.
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