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Re: front rollers
Hey Jeff, I also agree that impact is the best way to loosen those bolts. Sometimes applying heat will also work. One time my guy at night "stripped" one out so bad that I had to weld a large allen wrench to the bolt and back it out with the allen wrench. Good luck.
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Re: front rollers
When you put it together don't file the edges of the "sofl". This will make it a little easier to take it apart the next time. I know that some people say that if you don't file the screws it will damage the carpet. IT WON'T. About 10 years ago the manufacturers of the screws changed the design & rounded the edges a little. It was enough to prevent damage. Also, use a smitty (The fold out type allen wrench assortment)to remove the screws. I doesn't hurt your hand as much as a plain allen wrench.
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Re: front rollers
all great responses,
Whack with hammer!!!!
try
Whack again!!!!
cuss
Whack again!!!!
PING!!!!
you now have removed the bolt.
An Air-impact works great also.
A point:
When assembling, DO NOT use lock-tight.
Now if anyone has a great idea on how to
stop the wear and the thunking (without the springs or rubber inserts) I'm listening!!!!
Doc
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Re: front rollers
Never seen one yet I couldn't get out with heat, if need be. Normally I just use a socket allen with a 1/2" driver...(Leverage is the key). One place I worked at, insisted we used the red loc-tight...(you know the permanent stuff). Red-Hot is the only way to get them puppies out.
Also when the head gets stripped out I just braze a 1/4" bolt to it and take it out with a 7/16" socket.
Doc, The only way I've been able to shut them things up, is to weld, remachine and redrill the holes. I made a jig for a drill press for this out of an old front roller half. It's a lot of work. If you do weld them I would suggest brazing them because it's a bitch to drill nickel or cast iron rod..bits want to drift even with my jig. The brass aloy lasts a long time.
Another method....of which I'm not to fond of...is to tack weld the end of the pins to the casting. This is a lot less work and not as durable. And...you risk the ear breaking from the stress.
Tech
[This message has been edited by Tech_Mech (edited 06-09-2000).]
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Re: front rollers
Doc,
We're going to try some synthetic links that I found on the net. Take a look at the list at <a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank">http://www.envirobushings.com</a></a></a></a></a></a></a></a></a></a> Haven't seen them yet but have them on order.
Dutch
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Re: front rollers
dutch,
tried a similair link about 12 years ago.
FAILED.
The products that the company you listed are
lubracated impregnated nylon (nylotron).
We tried some distributor clutch bushings with the "green". FAILED.
I'm currently running a test of a design of my own on the clutch bushings, 2 of six months completed.
I have no doubt that some of that company's
products work fantastic on other parts of the pinsetter, just NOT on the front rollers or
distributers.
Doc
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Re: front rollers
Doc,
We use those green pinion bushings (Stahl's)in both houses I work in. I love 'em. No problems except we found that all parts that come in contact with the bushing MUST be new. Anything used will eat into the nylon in no time. We also spray all contact surfaces with a moly lube from Chemsearch / Certified Labs. (Which ever company you deal with)
Dutch
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Re: front rollers
trickymark:
Yes we go through alot. I DO NOT re-use
the allen bolts for the front roller.
It is easier get to put new ones in.
dutch:
That is the same outfit that we used to get the bushings from. We use the black ones, (8290 part number), with less failure rate.
The failure would also be lower if my boss would stop insisting on using the vantage super clutch assemblies.
Doc
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