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Hey guys I have a machine where the table will drift in reverse until it energizes the table motor which brings it back to its stopping position. It may do it once, or it may do it repeatedly, and sometimes not do it at all. It causes the table to jump. I've already tried changing chassis and motor, and also checked connections at the C1 plug. Anyone have any ideas? I'm running 82-70 pinspotters with Omega-Tek boards. Thanks.
if you have westinghouse front end motors the problem is in the gearbox...if you have nationals/Felix Erikson the problem is in the dragging break...which do ya have?
also make sure the table is stopping as close to 355 as possible...if its stopping to soon (too low) even a good gearbox/motor wont hold it from drifting for too long...particularly when the motor gets hot. my method for setting the 355 stop is run the table to pick up pins, and adjust the TA1 cam so the Table Drive assy stops an RCH before the white nylon roller goes under the spotting latch. If you set the table too stop too late, the solenoid will not be able to engage the table drive to allow the table to go all the way down when it spots pins.
Quote:]Originally posted by Coors: if you have westinghouse front end motors the problem is in the gearbox...if you have nationals/Felix Erikson the problem is in the dragging break...which do ya have?
also make sure the table is stopping as close to 355 as possible...if its stopping to soon (too low) even a good gearbox/motor wont hold it from drifting for too long...particularly when the motor gets hot. my method for setting the 355 stop is run the table to pick up pins, and adjust the TA1 cam so the Table Drive assy stops an RCH before the white nylon roller goes under the spotting latch. If you set the table too stop too late, the solenoid will not be able to engage the table drive to allow the table to go all the way down when it spots pins. [/QUOTE]
I loosen the table cam cluster and move it back about a 16th of an inch at a time to get the table to 355. Knock the cam toward the back of the bowling machine. Ajust it so there is 1/8" or less gap between the table drive nylon roller, and the latch that trips it when then machine is in 2nd ball.
Try changing the CTM-2. If the TBL doesn't stop on a dime (with at least a nickel change) it can sometimes coast backward. (Picture rocking a car out of a hole when it's stuck. Same principle.) This will sometimes help if the gearbox is a little loose.
My method for setting the stopping position of the TBL is to line up the TBL drive's nylon roller with the shaft for the shifter lever (a.k.a. the spotting latch, spotting lever, cam lever, or the book calls it a cam link).
Dutch
Make sure you inspect the lower points on the allen-bradley contactor (table contactor).
This set of points usually doesn't burn like the top set can but after years of use they just wear away. This prevents the capacitors from loading and unloading properly. the caps in the wireway can be operationally O.K. but they never get charged (those contact points switch 110v. safty first!).
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First let me say thank you for your time. am plagued by a big issue for three weeks now.
our technician is working full time on another...
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