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I have a sweep that drifts thru first guard, so I replaced sweep contactors.
things are fine untill the machine runs 20-30 minutes...then it starts intermittent drifting again...problem IS in the chassis cause it moves with that chassis.
I tried a 5 board....what next?
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ALSO...I'm looking for a few # 1 boards..anyone have some for sale?
Half the house has omega-tek boards ...half has 5 boards.I don't want to spend a bunch of $ right now as the owner is finally mumbling the word 'scoring'.....hmmmmm.
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Next....I have one that will not pindicate at all..tried cp1 cap. nope..
ideas?
sweep drift problem is usually in the C1 plug...second row
of course im sure you've already replaced sweep contacts
pindication....need more info...pindiation comes from the motherboard of the chassis....does the pindication problem move with the chassis?...other guesses would be the ground wire is broke somewhere...do you still have the Mod IV's ("triangles?")
also do you have the green elco plug on your chassis?
Yes,green plug...& yes.problem stays with this chassis. Masks are 'pre modIV'....magic triangles in great shape, but the sparemaker lights have all been removed as we never could get them to work right!
I have had an experiance with sweep runaways that is caused from to much heat and sometimes the contactors get "fused" together by carbon deposits. I would suggest attaching a heat sink that you can get from radio shack to part of the contator to draw that heat. I have never tried it but the idea came to me while chassing a runaway sweep. Just an idea let me know if anyone tries it and if it works.
Harv,
You said that you changed the contacts, did you replace the lowers? They are the ones responsible for breaking. If you have the newer style enclosed relays & you changed the unit you should be OK there.
Just for fun, put one of your Omega-tek boards in it for a day or 2 & see what happens. If it still coasts, you know it's not in the boards. (I personally don't think it's the boards. PC #3 has the drivers but I don't think it has anything to do with breaking)
This will also let you know if your pindication problem is in the boards or not. (PC #4 is your pindication board but it rarely goes bad)
Check contact # 29 at the Elco plug & trace it on the motherboard. # 29 is the common circuit for all mask lights.
Also (& correct me if I'm wrong, guys) try replacing the triac in the spider heat sink that's located between the boards & the tbl & swp relays. If I remember correctly, that should be the pindication driver.
Dutch
Deadwood,
Try changing your CSM-1 or CTM-1 capacitor. Sometimes they'll be strong enough to do their job but weak enough to toast the upper contacts.
Dutch
PS. It's the right way to do it.
Dutch: Of course i would check my csm1 capacitor. Thats the next place after i check the contactor. But, when your cap is good, and its just the heat why not attach a heat sink..that is not a mickey mouse dutch. A Mickey mouse is is when you do someting in place of doing the right thing. Adding is not mickeymousing. Inplace of is. Adding the heat sink is a way of dealing with an enviornmental problem.
hey harv i have about 11 one board omega teks chassis's for sale 7 - 5 boards and 1 amf mp. i am in new york. write back if you are still interested. oh and about the drift i have had this in 8230's also. sounds like the relay itself is magnatizing. this has happened to me at least half a dozen times in 18 years. especially on my old 4400 chassis's. and this is a problem that usually only happens when it gets hot. give it a shot let me know.oh and this is a problem that happens now and then on 8230 pinfeed solonoids. glen
[This message has been edited by METRO_LK (edited 08-29-2000).]
[This message has been edited by METRO_LK (edited 08-29-2000).]
[This message has been edited by METRO_LK (edited 08-29-2000).]
[This message has been edited by METRO_LK (edited 08-29-2000).]
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