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Front Roller Bracket Studs

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  • Front Roller Bracket Studs

    I have 82-70 Pinspotters and a few bad Front Roller Bracket Pivot Studs. Any ideas on removing the worn stud so it can be replaced with Pivot Stud 000-029-015. I have tried using a pipe to slowly work the weld loose, but it also seems to bend the Kickback Plate if you are not real careful or patient.

    Thank in advance for any help

    Terry

  • #2
    Re: Front Roller Bracket Studs

    Hello, Terry.

    I have used a 4" grinding disk attached to a bolt with washers and fitted in a hand drill to grind off the back side before. I've also cut the shaft off with a cutting disk and then drilled out the stud. It's about a 4 hour fix if you break the kickback and have to re-weld it so be careful trying to break a stud off (I know, I've done it).

    Hope this helps a little.

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    • #3
      Re: Front Roller Bracket Studs

      I've changed quite a few in my time. I found the easiest way, is to get the heaviest BFH and whack it back and forth and up and down. Yes, the frame will get slightly tweaked when doing this process, but it is easily repaired when installing the new stud...The trick is NOT to keep banging the stud in one direction too many times at once. I myself have never broken a frame doing this.

      Once in a while AMF will over weld it...you'll know after a few blows...Then you need to resort to the next method. Get your Sawzall, cut it then drill out the remainder with a good uni-bit.

      Either method should only take about 10 - 15 minutes to remove the stud. If it takes longer...your not hitting it hard enough or your bit's/blades are dull.

      Once the new stud is VERY tightly mounted, I slide on the bracket assy to check that it is Parallel to the frame. If not, remove the bracket slide on a tight piece of thick pipe (I use an old stud under the dist yolk). Get a cheater bar (I use the Rubber Rivet Tool) and tweak as necessary.

      Tech

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      • #4
        Re: Front Roller Bracket Studs

        i'm a bit of a perfectionist, i take the side wall out a gring the welded side off, takes about 3 hours, but i go to bed knowing that it has gone back on as good as it was when the machine was new

        must be greased every 6 months
        i don't need mods, i am a bloody genius

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        • #5
          Re: Front Roller Bracket Studs

          If it’s on the ball door side, you can reach in there with a grinder. If it’s on the common side, pray that it’s an end machine or you’re going to be using Craig’s method. Any way you do it, make sure the nut is really, really, really, really tight. You don’t want the headaches associated with a loose pivot stud. (Been there, done that) I even put a drop of permanent formula lock-tite on it. No method of removing the welded studs is easy.
          To avoid replacing more in the future, switch to the lubeless bushing. They won’t eat the stud.
          Dutch

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          • #6
            Re: Front Roller Bracket Studs

            Dutch, do you know the part number for the lubeless bushing?

            Terry

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            • #7
              Re: Front Roller Bracket Studs

              The only places I know of to get the lubeless bushings from are Stahl's (900-112-203-TRB) and <a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.envirobushings.com" target="_blank">http://www.envirobushings.com</a></a></a></a></a></a></a></a></a></a> (N56002). They are much more expensive but for what I get out of them, I'd pay double. (Maybe I shouldn't say that too loud)
              Dutch

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              • #8
                Re: Front Roller Bracket Studs

                Craig,

                I wish that I could be a perfectionist. I used to be. But then I learned over time that my method is good enough and still better than factory specs. Next time the stud needs changed 10- 20 years down the road… It only needs to be unbolted!...5 min job for whoever has the honors.

                Has anyone ever worked in a house that had an upgrade installation from AMF? Talk about bent up stuff!!! This is why one adjusment very rarely works across the house.

                Fact is...where I work...There is not one machine that ever sits idle for 3 hrs at a time with the exception of when we are closed.

                I have never had any problems changing studs this way... and I sleep much better knowing my employer didn't pay me for 3-4 hrs for a 15 min job. OK maybe 25 min for a cigarette break and a power nap…lol

                Tech


                [This message has been edited by Tech_Mech (edited 12-15-2000).]

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