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Pins -N- Kidneys


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  • Pins -N- Kidneys

    Howdy again, y'all
    In the Twister pins thread, the King told me to try the "kidney swap" mod. After talking it over with my cohorts, I've decided to get in Jonas' boat. You're nuts!
    Besides, the only organ I need to swap is my liver.
    But back to the subject:
    One of the most common problems in the center I work at most is PIW.
    That's right - a pin will lodge itsself between the kidney and the wheel at the bottom edge. This tends to only happen during high humidity (which aint often 'round here).
    The machines run the Grainger elevator pulleys which allow the wheel to just stop when this happens. Adjustment to the kidneys is hari-kari. It only leads to more (and worse) problems.
    I have never had this problem anywhere else I've worked. Only here, and only when its humid. Any ideas?
    Chad Q.
    P.S. I've never had pins orient head first unless it was caused by a pile up just prior.
    When I get some pictures taken, I'll show you why... Too hard to explain in words!

  • #2
    Re: Pins -N- Kidneys


    If masternut approves any mod. it must be good. Read up on his FPS average.


    ps. you can fix the belt slipping on the pulley by moving the spring off of the upper post and stretching it from the top of the black frame down to the idler effectively giving it more tension.

    [This message has been edited by 82/70 king (edited 01-18-2001).]


    • #3
      Re: Pins -N- Kidneys

      King: Why Mickey Mouse instead of fixing?? IF you have to do all that work to get it to not slip then man, you got to much time on your hands. ON the other subject, try putting your Pin guide all the way up on the upper and down on the lower. This should give you enough clearence so your P-E wont stop but enough pressure so you wont get head first off the turn pan. I did this to all my 16 machines, no problem. Havent had a stop in 3 months since.



      • #4
        Re: Pins -N- Kidneys


        I have worked on 70's for 19 years. I do not Mickey Mouse anything. If I did, every neighboring center would not have me come work on their equipment when it is broke. All 16 of my machines have had the kidney's swapped already and I have had only one pin pileup in 3 days this week and we are busy. I believe you should be more openminded, if AMF did not think they could improve on their design then we would all be working on 30's. A very veteran mechanic stopped by my center the other day and said "they probably engineered the kidney the way you have it and someone probably produced it backward".
        The reason the belt slips is because the pulley I use is for a smaller v-belt, but is saves about $17 per pulley. If you remount the spring for more tension - no slipping.



        • #5
          Re: Pins -N- Kidneys

          This could be hard to describe but I'll give it a shot.

          The B.E. motor supports/frames mount to the steel kickbacks with two bolts each. On the rear support/frame there are also two bolts that attach to a flat steel plate spanning the pair of machines B.E. motor supports. Over the years these 4 upper bolts can come loose allowing the motors to tip down slightly. If you stand behind the motors you might see the slight slanting of the motor.

          Sometimes you can cure the "now the belts to long" problem by loosening the spanning plate, and re-tightening the bolts while lifting up on the stator.



          • #6
            Re: Pins -N- Kidneys

            Thanks Jonas.

            I will look at mine tomorrow.



            • #7
              Re: Pins -N- Kidneys

              Kidney mod
              i just did this mod on 36 lanes and yes i ran in to some of the belts that would not drive the pin wheel and rite i took a pipe clap and ran it from the gearbox odd lane to the gearbox even and loosened the bolts on the back end motor frame then i took the pipe clamp and pulled the two gearboxes together and while they where still clamped i then tightened
              the bolts and the problem was gone

              when the motors are not level they can cause more then one problem

              No. 1 the "u" joint on the drive shaft is in a bind so you will start see them go bad

              No.2 the drive shaft is in such an angle that it starts to eat up the housing weldment

              No. 3 the pin wheel belts start to look loose the belt tightener will look like it is all most hitting the pin wheel

              But as to the 4" pulley and the kidney pans you may spend a little time adjusting it all out but in the end you will not have pile ups so is it worth it i say yes



              • #8
                Re: Pins -N- Kidneys

                You can also run a B188 instead of a B190. They are so tight they almost don't need an idler.


                • #9
                  Re: Pins -N- Kidneys

                  Most mechanics are reducing the size of the pinwheel drive sheave from 6" to 5" (Grainger). In some cases this may contribute to or cause orientation problems. I've compromised and acquired a 5 1/2" pulley. It slows the wheel down a little to get that extra spacing on the distributor without sacrificing too much of the momentum needed to get the pin to turn quickly nor the tension needed to avoid slipping. If you do use the smaller one, B188 does work good, but it won't with the 5 1/2".


                  • #10
                    dose anyone hear run this kidney mod?


                    • #11
                      Has anyone changed the position of the black guide that bolts on the step? That's always what leads to that for me (piw at bottom of kidney) when is not enough tension. Mover them closer to the pinwheel hook without touching any.


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