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70 'S DIST ADJ.
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
Tek,
I try to have them a little on the loose side. You have to make sure and disconnect the trip arms and have the carriage not move the stop blade when the carriage travels back and forth. Then adjust your trip arm rod so that it indexes at all 10 positions.
king
[This message has been edited by 82/70 king (edited 01-28-2001).]
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
There's a little phrase that fits dist. adjustment perfectly: "Firm, yet yielding to the touch."
I agree with the king - more specifically, make sure that the eccentrics JUST BARELY DO NOT TOUCH the tube. Also, I like to clean them and the rod with carb cleaner, then shoot a little silicon spray onto a rag and, using my finger, wipe the recessed part of all of the rollers with it.
And make sure that the stop blade is nice and greasy. Clutch is tight but not too tight. Takes me a few days and jams to get it just right.
And most important of all, make sure EVERYTHING is PARALLEL!
And you thought adjusting carbs on a tri-power olds was tough!
Chad Q.
[This message has been edited by AMF Magic Triangle (edited 01-30-2001).]
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
King: Just wondering since you have been in the biz for 19 years, how did you become an AMF Head Mechanic? Dont mean to sound harsh but the only way to adj ecentric rollers is by the book. Every Head Mechanic ive talked to has told me the same. If all rollers are loose how do you suppose you get the carriage tube and the trip arm in paralell? I suppose you would just adj your concentric rollers too! Maybe grease your carriage tubes so you dont get the delay from 10-9 and 9-home? HAHAHAHA you people make me laugh. Dont you heads have a manual? SHeesh. If I learned 70' s the way you preech your techniques, I would be fired as a Head by a Regional instantly!
Triangle: Nice and greasy? Yea so greasy so when the clutch rotates it spits grease everywhere. Clutch not to tight? A couple of jams before you get it right? Are you an A or a C? A's shouldnt have to do it twice. Clutches aren't that hard to get right the first time. Let me ask you this, what is your starting point, 3 full turns? Maybe jam down your nut so you squash the worm gear? Maybe just oil the dizzy cam so it goes more smoothly? Man oh Man.
In the words of my mentor. "But I could be wrong...."
deadwood
[This message has been edited by deadwood (edited 01-30-2001).]
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
I have seen some mechanics replace the 2 concentric rollers with the ecentric rollers, running 4 ecentric. I have never had the need to try this but am interested if anyone else has tried this. I think they were trying to compensate for there tubes being bent and they didn't realize it.
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
Deadwood,
I am personally tired of your attitude. I do not have to justify my methods to you and you cannot learn anything if you do not listen or try anything different. You do not gain any ground if you do not stick your neck out!
king
ps. We are all here to learn off of each other not to tell other people they do not know what they are talking about.
psII. All manuals are basic starting points. when a piece of machinery is 30 years old you must deviate from the perfectly engineered tolerances to have optimal performance (allow for wear).
[This message has been edited by 82/70 king (edited 01-30-2001).]
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
Personally my attitude has nothing to do with the subject at hand. I have adj my ecentric rollers by the book tons of times and no jams for 5 months. Why adj something the way its not supposed to be adj ? To compensate wear? Thats why you buy new parts and keep up with your PM. Having your ecentric rollers all loose defeats the purpose of them. But oh well.
deadwood
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
Deadwood,
Did you have a hard day?
"Don't mean to sound harsh..."
-Hush a little bit then...
"Don't you heads have a manual?..."
-Sometimes it's O.K. to say something like that, even I did...and allmost got stoned(not the way we use to do in Holland though)by some members and even the forums director, but then I thought it was the right moment to say this(I wasn't right in the end-had to make some excuses....)
"I Suppose you would adjust your concentric rollers too......"
- If I have to make a machine run I will do everything aslong as it's making money, and yes, I did (with succes) put the inside of an ecentic plastic roller in the iron concentric roller at the other side of the distributer(if you want to have something paralell it's nice to have it paralel in more ways than front to back)it's not in the manual, but no harm done and it helped.....
If everything would have been done by the book(or manual),without exploring or seeking without improvement a bowling machine wouldn't even exist, or I would not have been able to read your reply....yes , a coin has two sides...
Martin
[This message has been edited by lampie (edited 01-30-2001).]So it goes.
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
I agree with King. Even Tom Neidermier used to teach that the manual is a "starting" point when making adjustments. Time and wear are critical factors when maintaining the 82-70. Particularly in older instalations. Differences in adjustments can be evident on every lane.
Deadwood - since the moderators won't tell you to do it, I will. SHUT UP! If you cant help the cause - LEAVE IT! Your attitude is detrimental to the purpose of this site. No one needs your brand of help. Now, let's see how long it takes for you to bust MY stones - or will you take my advise?
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
Quote:]<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by deadwood:
Triangle: Nice and greasy? Yea so greasy so when the clutch rotates it spits grease everywhere.</font>[/QUOTE]
What the hell? Is this a problem for you? So many problems I've found have been caused by stops being too dry and sticking. I keep mine swimming in grease and they likes it. And they never spit grease anywhere.
Quote:]<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by deadwood:
Clutch not to tight? A couple of jams before you get it right? Are you an A or a C? A's shouldnt have to do it twice. Clutches aren't that hard to get right the first time. Let me ask you this, what is your starting point, 3 full turns? Maybe jam down your nut so you squash the worm gear? Maybe just oil the dizzy cam so it goes more smoothly? Man oh Man. </font>[/QUOTE]
Yeah, something like that, jackass. Clutch tension is very critical and changes over time. One notch makes all the difference in the world. One speck of dirt on the friction disk makes all the difference in the world. Theres a lot of variables there, you know. If you always get clutch tension right the first time, I must have been wrong in worshipping Jesus all these years. Behold, Deadwood is the new messiah!
No I'm not an A, I'm a B. I don't know it all. I'm responsible for all this stuff on my lanes, though. I don't have any more jams than anybody else I work with, and when I do, I diagnose it and fix it so it doesn't happen again. And it doesn't.
Deadwood, it's not our fault that you cant get any pussy. There are better ways to state your opinion. I thought we all just went through this in another thread...
Since you dont know how to behave like an adult, don't respond to me anymore. If I want your opinion, I'll rattle my zipper.
Chad Q.
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Re: 70 'S DIST ADJ.
AMFTEK:
Sorry your new thread had to get nasty. Anyway, the book is pretty much it but you can do other little things to make it better.
I am a big fan of keeping everything very clean (especially that tube and ALL rollers) and giving the rollers a light coat of silicon spray. Springs and the way/amount they are tightened are also very important but that's too much to talk about here - would be better with some pictures.
Ya know, trial and error. Be creative and come up with something better! If you stop at what the manual says, you will have jams. Let's hear some unusual things you've tried or got running now!
Chad Q.
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