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82/70 TABLE YOKES
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Re: 82/70 TABLE YOKES
I DO! Thanks for bringing this up. In reality, what you're doing is using the combination square/level on the left side to allow sufficient "toe" so that the pins can be set on spot on their front edges and rocked back as the cups pull away. The set screw handles it and that's that. Matching that haalf-bubble on the right side to the left positions the yoke squarely over the table. That way the 7-pin and the 10-pin ccan get equal toe with similar cup adjustment, provided all the cup gaps are the same (4 1/8"). (I love doing tables!)
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Re: 82/70 TABLE YOKES
im sure im in the minority.
Look down the lanes
If there are ten pins standin....on spot.............perhaps i was there.
Im usin a quote...
"Guages???.......I Dont Need No Guages!!!....
"I Dont Need No ***Dam Stinkin Guages!!!!
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Re: 82/70 TABLE YOKES
i apologize for the earlier outburst.
i use no guages....i simply relative between shuttling & standing on the pindeck.
Only my lack of common sense is not necesarily<<-----sp???? required
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Re: 82/70 TABLE YOKES
How many of you lay on the pin deck and check for cracks in the yoke? I've thought about doing this. Is it a waste of time? Do the yolks just "go" without warning?
Does everybody use 3 torsion springs? I've got about 20 lanes with only the back 2 springs on and a box with about 20 used spare springs. It looks like someone in the past took out the 4-5-6 spring for some reason. I can only guess they did it to slow down the yolk warpedge.
Any input on this?
Jonas
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Re: 82/70 TABLE YOKES
Quote:]<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jonas:
Does everybody use 3 torsion springs? looks like someone in the past took out the 4-5-6 spring for some reason. I can only guess they did it to slow down the yolk warpedge.
Any input on this?
Jonas</font>[/QUOTE]The original 82-70's only had 2 springs...the back two. the 3rd was added later. 3/4 of mine still only have two. when a yoke cracks ill replace with a three spring deal
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Re: 82/70 TABLE YOKES
Jonas: Some don't like the third spring because the 8 pin rubs it if the cup is spread a little (see the shiny spot on iy). I don't think it hurts. Besides, if you have three springs, each gets adjusted a little lighter. The book doesn't cover this, but instead of adjusting so that the tighteninng screw is even with the cup/cap gap, it should be backed off until it is even with the top cap nut. Of ccourse, as usual, this is just the starting point.
KIng: Check the right side same as the left. To adjust, loosen the appropriate collar that's next to the yoke bearing and very slightly move the whole yoke over on the #1 shaft until you get the same bubble as the left. Do not move the shaft or you'll bind up at the cam follower. Don't do like me...always forgetting to tighten a collar or jam nut!
Good table setting! (Salad fork on the left, knife and spoon on the right???)
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Re: 82/70 TABLE YOKES
Quote:]<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BowlEquip:
Some don't like the third spring because the 8 pin rubs it if the cup is spread a little (see the shiny spot on iy).
</font>[/QUOTE]
Thanks B.E.!
____________
Almost forgot....Thanks Coors!
[This message has been edited by Jonas (edited 02-06-2001).]
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Re: 82/70 TABLE YOKES
Speaking of yokes, there's a great repair kit out there that beats AMF's hands down! You all have or have seen AMF's yoke repair kit: it's made up of a couple of pieces if shuttle tube material and some bolts, & requires drilling hole in the old yoke. A pretty decent splint, but only for the side. This other kit has a side splint PLUS an X-shaped one for the center front. And both splints require no drilling...just bolt it on! I've used the X-section to hold a yoke together that was completely snapped apart at the "X"...on for a year. A Stahl's exclusive. Price is the same as AMF's single unit.
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